Collection
Miranda's exploration of Patek Philippe's chronographs, specifically the 5960P with its black dial and the 5170G, offers a compelling look at how Patek Philippe balances tradition with contemporary design. This post highlights the rarity of black dials in Patek Philippe's history and the subtle design cues that connect modern references to iconic vintage pieces, providing valuable context for collectors interested in the brand's chronograph lineage.
Patek and chronograph, a combination which is as rare as it is desirable. For many years the options were very limited, indeed when the ref.5070J was launched in 1998, it was the first "simple" chronograph for 40 years. Today we are spoiled! And this year we are further spoiled by two exceptional chronographs, so distinct from each other yet steeped in Patek history.
I start with the one I feel has quietly slipped under the radar,,,the new 5960p with black dial. Black dials are very desirable, and very rare. The last classic with black dial (in regular production) was the 5070J. The 5960p is ofcourse well known to all who frequent this forum, so perhaps you could be forgiven in thinking...yet another version so nothing new here to be seen. Well, actually, the black dial has lifted the 5960p to a new level.
The 5960p has a bad boy look....the contrast between the hard cold platinum and the deep black makes this a real mean machine. Yet despite its modernity you can still see the history of Patek. The case lends itself from the classic 1463 with its waterproof screwback and pump pushers.
Of all the watches from basel this year, this was the one that caught me by surprise...but what a surprise 
Black dials are a rarity with Patek and especially with chronographs. In recent years, Patek have made many special pieces in this sumptuous combination of platinum and black, for instance the 5500 Pagoda, the 5970p, and of course the Millenium in platinum-the new 5960p has illustrious company. Vintage Patek chronographs are ofcourse as rare as the proverbial hens teeth.
The Patek "bad boy",
The classic waterproof pump button 1463: you can see the DNA
The sensation of this year was the much anticipated ref 5170g. What we did not expect was the dial..with Breguet numbers. Only a true Patek lover understands this insane fixation with Breguet numbers. It is perhaps because of the history behind these very special numerals:
Now whilst many collectors crave a new steel chronograph, it is a fact that in vintage watches, the white gold ref.130 is far rarer than the steel! Infact it was not until we saw the premiere of the 5070G that we had a serial production of chronographs (without complication) in white Gold:
the iconic 5070G
A rare vintage chronograph in WG:
Even rarer is large size chronographs...in any metal. the ref 530 is perhaps the most desirable of all classic chronographs with its 36mm case:
The 5170 is the true hier to the ref 530. All of the classic features are there ofcourse, the Calatrava case, square pushers and two counters. What we in the new 5170G is a piece which is bursting with heritage and desirable features. A white gold case, Breguet numbers and pulse scale....this is what dreams are made of. The true beauty can only be appreciated when you see this piece. As for the movement, its eye candy....
There are always comparisons with its forefathers, especially the 5070. They are very two different watches, only joined by common ancestory. In my opinion a 5070G and 5170G would make perfect partners in any collection
Best
Imran
The Patek Philippe reference 5070, part of the Complications collection, marked a significant return for the brand to large-format chronographs. Introduced in 1998, it was the first non-perpetual calendar chronograph produced by Patek Philippe since the reference 1463, which ceased production in the early 1960s. Its design drew inspiration from a unique Patek Philippe aviator's watch from the 1940s, characterized by its prominent case and dial layout, yet reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This reference established a new aesthetic direction for the brand's chronographs, moving towards more substantial case dimensions.
The watch features a 42mm case, initially offered in 18k yellow gold, housing the manual-winding Caliber CH 27-70. This movement, based on a Nouvelle Lémania ébauche, was extensively finished and modified by Patek Philippe, meeting the brand's stringent quality standards. It provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial, in this specific configuration, is black, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The fixed bezel frames the dial, and the watch is typically fitted with a leather strap.
Reference 5070 appeals to collectors interested in modern Patek Philippe chronographs that combine traditional movement architecture with a more contemporary case size. Its limited production run and the subsequent introduction of variants in other precious metals contribute to its collectibility. The reference represents a distinct period in Patek Philippe's chronograph history, bridging vintage inspirations with a new era of larger watch designs.
Yes, the 5960P with this black dial is very tempting. I would have hard time deciding which one to choose,, between the 3 dials offered on the platinum version. In my opinion, the clear winner of this year. As for the 5170G, not a fan. Much better, according to my own tastes, than the J, but still, the case, the hands, and the dial of the 5070 G look much more refined. Look at these hands, we are far from the elegance of the 5070 ones, for example. They could have gone for different hands, of co
The photos say a thousand words.
As you said it is easy to pass throughthe novelties, a little bit too quickly. I like the terms "Bad boy", it makes me think of another black dial I would have loved to possess: the 5396G Tiffany LE. As for the 5170G, it seems to be a fantastic elegant and full-of-history chrono. I havn't seen it yet in the metal but I thinkit's going to haunt my dreams. Thanks for the pictures ;) Cheers, Mark
Our 5131G Brothers will meet relatively soon. Will there be a day when our 5170G Brothers will meet? Best, Kari
nice flashback. So interesting to see how every watch that comes out today as its roots deep in the past... and you can feel it has the strength to face a long futur. That's the power of DNA Thanks for the report
I also prefer the 5170G to the J but the 5070 is in a league of it's own for me when it comes to Patek Chrono....Cheers,
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