Patek Philippe Deployant Buckles: Chevron vs. Calatrava
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Patek Philippe Deployant Buckles: Chevron vs. Calatrava

By doobooloo · Nov 9, 2013 · 23 replies
doobooloo
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Doobooloo's detailed comparison of Patek Philippe's chevron and Calatrava deployant buckles offers valuable insights beyond aesthetics. This article is essential for Patek Philippe owners, revealing a crucial functional difference in effective strap length that can significantly impact wrist fit and comfort, especially for the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960P.

Hello all,

There have been a few discussions pertaining to this topic, but none addressed this issue so wanted to share what I found with you.

When I purchased my 5960P I could not decide between the two styles of deployants - chevron vs calatrava - and my indecision was purely from a cosmetic angle. So I ended up getting both styles to see and decide for myself. To my surprise, I found a MUCH more important difference than just aesthetics - and this is the effective "length" of the buckle. To illustrate...







Notice that the pin of the chevron style deployant sits farther out than that of the calatrava buckle! This works to about 1/2 distance between the pin holes in the strap. So, what I found is that experimenting between the two buckles, I can fine-tune the "sweet spot" of strap length for my watch. 

This is particularly useful since not all Patek straps are created equal... Take a look:



Both are genuine Patek straps, but they're cut differently! Turns out, I can get the perfect fit with the calatrava buckle on the brown strap, and the chevron buckle on the grey strap. As a side note, the grey strap on the grey 5960P really looks nice, makes me think Patek should have made that the default strap on the grey dial 5960P's. smile

All that said... I slightly prefer the chevron buckle because it sits flatter against the leather, partly due to the curvature of the buckle as seen in the photos above. Otherwise, the length difference is really the most important distinguisher... and having found this out, now I am forced to keep both buckles!  biggrin

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960

The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5960A, introduced in stainless steel, represents a significant offering within the brand's annual calendar chronograph series. This particular reference is notable for being the first annual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe to be offered in a non-precious metal, making it a distinctive piece in the Complications collection. It combines practical complications with a robust case material, appealing to collectors seeking a blend of utility and horological complexity.

This reference features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is presented in white, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet complements the case material, providing a cohesive aesthetic.

The 5960A in stainless steel holds a specific position for collectors due to its material choice and the integrated bracelet, differentiating it from its precious metal counterparts. Its combination of an annual calendar and chronograph functions, along with the 24-hour indication, makes it a highly functional and mechanically interesting timepiece. The special hand set and case back decoration mentioned for this specific 5960A further emphasize its unique attributes within the production run.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal.CH 28-520 QA 24H
Case
stainless steel
Diameter
40.5mm
Dial
white
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
KE
keks
Nov 9, 2013

This message has been edited by keks on 2013-11-09 23:24:20

KE
keks
Nov 9, 2013

Thanks for this post! I have been considering getting a gray strap for my 5960P (gray dial) but my AD did not seem to believe he could get a PP strap but instead offered to order one from Camille Fournet. I currently have a few other straps from Camille Fournet and they are well made but would naturally much prefer an original. Would you mind sharing the product ref# or color/name ref# for the gray strap you posted as I think it looks fantastic? I currently got a black (Fournet) crocodile strap

CM
cmclee
Nov 9, 2013

now I know why the orginal brown strap did not fit well until I change it to a calatrava.

AM
amanico
Nov 10, 2013

You may break it... BUT the biggest problem of the Chevron is that it too much looks like a Tag Heuer buckle. A total no go for me. Best, Nicolas

KE
keks
Nov 10, 2013

I suppose that is one way to solve the issue. Personally I find my wrist asking for slightly more room when in the air or in warmer climates so solved it by adding a hole in the strap. The calatrava cross does a splendid job hiding this modification so no problems visually at all.

SM
small-luxury-world
Nov 10, 2013

Those make the difference for those who really appreciate their watches on their wrists. Thanks for sharing! Oliver

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