Mark in Paris shares his hands-on experience with the Patek Philippe Ref. 5970R, reflecting on its place within Patek's lineage of chronograph-perpetual calendars. He meticulously details the watch's aesthetic and mechanical attributes, from its case proportions and dial finishing to the caliber 27-70. Mark invites the community to share their perspectives, sparking a discussion on the 5970's enduring appeal versus newer references.
Hi everyone,
As you maybe know already, I love Patek's iconic Chronograph - Perpetual Calendar references.
This combination has been first introduced by Patek Philippe around 1941 (1st date I found) for the
1518, then we had the
2499 from 1951 (the 1518 was still produced during several years) and the
3970 (1986-2004).
In our "modern" times, the
5970 has a very nice size (40mm), especially considering its thickness, and a great decoration finishing, from the dial side but also when admiring the 27-70 caliber from the caseback.
It has a very nice concave bezel which helps make the case look a little thinner than it would with a rounder one.
The case and its lugs are beautifully shaped without being "heavy" with too much details and curves everywhere, something I didn't like from the 80's/90's as it wasn't really refined (though it had a lot of character).
The specific very little darkened hands from the subdials are also something characteristic of this watch. I didn't like them when I saw the watch for the first time, several years ago, but I got used to them now and even think it is charming.
However, the main and subdials hands are fabulous.
The figures' size for the date or the subdials are perfectly proportions imho (whereas on some current models they sometimes appear a little too big).
The dial color is also to my taste as it is warm and not too silvery, in the cold way.
As, for the movement, I like it as it is very well finished but I'm not a 100% liking its little "old looking" style though (bridges curves, large and smoother anglage etc...). The new 29-535 is bringing clever technical improvements, a different decoration design and, even if inspired by previous constructions, it is coming at a 100% from Patek's watchmakers in terms of conception: I like when I know that it has been thought and developped by the people from the brand, right from the beginning to the final ebauche.
In a way, this 5970 makes me think about "authenticity" and style. It is a very elegant, refined and also chic model.
I like it a lot and that's why I like when our purist fellows share their pictures from time to time.
But you, I'm curious to know what do you feel about the 5970 references? Is it a complication like another one? Not interested, better with simplicity? More complicated? How do you place this one?
Cheers, Mark
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This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-11-26 15:12:09 About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 2499
The Patek Philippe Reference 2499 is a highly significant perpetual calendar chronograph, representing a pivotal model in the brand's history of complicated wristwatches. It succeeded the Reference 1518 and introduced a larger case diameter and updated aesthetic, establishing a design language that would influence subsequent perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe for decades. The reference was produced in four distinct series, each with subtle variations in dial layout, pusher style, and case construction.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, most commonly yellow gold, though examples in rose gold and platinum are known. The case diameter is generally 37.5mm, housing a manual-wind movement, specifically the caliber 13''' Q. This movement integrates a perpetual calendar mechanism with a chronograph function, offering indications for day, date, month, leap year, and moon phases. The crystal is typically acrylic for earlier series and sapphire for later iterations.
The 2499 is highly sought after by collectors due to its rarity, complexity, and historical importance. It is considered a benchmark for vintage complicated Patek Philippe watches and represents the evolution of the perpetual calendar chronograph from the mid-20th century. The variations between the four series provide distinct collecting opportunities, with each series possessing unique characteristics that appeal to different connoisseurs.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 13''' Q
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 37.5mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 3970
The Patek Philippe reference 3970 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, a complication central to the brand's heritage. It succeeded the highly regarded reference 2499 and served as a bridge to the later reference 5970. The 3970 was produced over an extended period, allowing for several series and subtle variations in its design, making it a significant model for collectors interested in the evolution of Patek Philippe's complicated wristwatches.
This reference features a 36mm case, commonly found in 18k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber CH 27-70 Q, based on a Lemania ébauche, which offers a power reserve of 60 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a dial that typically includes subdials for the chronograph, perpetual calendar displays, and moon phases.
The 3970 appeals to collectors seeking a classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph with a traditional aesthetic and a historically important movement. Its long production run from 1986 to 2004 means that examples from different series, such as the first, second, and third, exhibit minor differences in dial layout and case details, providing distinct collecting opportunities within the reference.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 27-70 Q
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 25m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
