Patek Philippe 5980 Chronograph Collection
Collection

Patek Philippe 5980 Chronograph Collection

By David Allen · Jul 18, 2023 · 25 replies
David Allen
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
25 replies6017 views1 photos
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David Allen's journey into Patek Philippe ownership, sparked by a university encounter, culminates in the acquisition of a Nautilus Ref. 5980/1A-001. His detailed initial impressions of this significant chronograph, including its unique dial color and comfortable wear, offer valuable insights for both prospective and seasoned collectors. This article explores the nuances of the reference, enriched by community discussion.

I learned about Patek on the first day of university. My new dormmate flashed a gold Calatrava on his wrist that his dad gifted him when he turned eighteen. I asked him what kind of watch it was and he told me that Patek was the greatest watchmaker in the world. I was fascinated since that day despite my being distracted by other watchmakers. Fast forward twenty-three years later and I decided that I needed to right this wrong. 

Behold the 5980/1A-001. It's my first chronograph too, which is crisp and smooth on this watch. The blue is skewed toward dark (which explains why Patek identifies the dial color as 'noir' on the papers), but occasionally flashes a steal blue-grey as seen in this photo. The bracelet wears very comfortably. The size seems just right. I think this is the type of watch that endures. For the record, I'm fairly certain I will not be giving this to any future child of mine when they turn eighteen. smile




About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980

The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced in 2006, marking a significant evolution for the Nautilus line by integrating a chronograph complication. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus chronograph, presenting a sportier and more technically complex option within the collection. It maintained the distinctive porthole-inspired case design while adding a monopusher flyback chronograph function, consolidating the chronograph registers into a single sub-dial at 6 o'clock.

This reference features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, characteristic of the Nautilus's robust yet refined aesthetic. It is powered by the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 45-55 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 120 meters, underscoring its design as a luxury sports watch.

The 5980 appeals to collectors seeking a Nautilus with additional functionality beyond time and date. Its introduction expanded the model's appeal, offering a more intricate mechanical experience while retaining the core design elements. The blue-black gradient dial is a signature feature, contributing to its distinct visual identity. This reference was produced until 2014, making it a specific period piece within the broader Nautilus chronology.

Specifications

Caliber
CH 28-520 C
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
40.5 mm
Dial
Blue-black gradient
Water Resist.
120m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
PA
patrick_y
Jul 18, 2023

There was a noir dial version of the 5980 that had a red chronograph hand. It's not the one you have. Perhaps the seller got the papers mixed up (people are human, it's a possibility)? You should double check the papers and see if the serial number matches. Definitely a cool watch. But a lot of people buy used watches because they don't take the proper precautions. You don't know what you don't know, and it's easy for a salesperson to pull the wool over a buyer's eyes. Next time you take the wat

PA
patrick_y
Jul 18, 2023

Did he know why Patek Philippe was considered the greatest watchmaker in the world? I'd be really impressed with your roommate if he really knew what set the top watchmakers apart! But perhaps he was only repeating the marketing message. Either way, the damage was done! You're now a Patek Philippe owner! Big congrats!

DA
David Allen
Jul 18, 2023

The watch just came back from a full service and light polish from Patek. It came with a newly minted Archives paper that confirms the movement and case numbers matching along with the 'black' dial. I know the real black dialed 5980 didn't come to market until 2011 or 2012. My watch is from 2008 (so it has a Geneve seal, ferrous hairspring, and screw-held bracelet, which real black dials didn't have this configuration). During my research on rolexforum I read a similar thread about the mystery o

CP
Cpt Scarlet
Jul 18, 2023

It’s a great choice …

PA
patrick_y
Jul 18, 2023

Black frame would make sense, as there is that ombre effect. Seems like you really did your research! I didn't know that there were different hairsprings! I'm very impressed!

DA
David Allen
Jul 18, 2023

At the end of the day, we all parrot what our parents say and do. He was no exception. ;-)

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