Reference Guide
Miranda's in-depth historical review of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007 offers a crucial perspective on a timepiece that sparked considerable debate among collectors. Her personal account of nearly acquiring this rare steel Calatrava, coupled with a comprehensive lineage of its steel predecessors, provides invaluable context for understanding its polarizing reception. This article delves into why the 6007, released to commemorate Patek Philippe's new facility, remains a significant, albeit controversial, reference in the brand's modern history.
So, I had the chance last summer to trial the ref 6007 Patek Philippe Calatrava. (Loaned by a fellow collector- thank you). Released to celebrate the inauguration of the new Patek Philippe facility, it was a rare sight- a steel Calatrava. It was met with mixed reviews- e included. The controversial case back and “stamped” dial being two of the objections from many. I have a confession- I actually did have a chance to buy it, but procrastinated too long (my excuse was it was the height of the pandemic and in fairness being frontline, didn’t rally have that much time to think about horological matters), by the time I called- it was of course spoken for and gone. So is it a case or remorse from the one that got away or a lucky escape.
Before we go into the review, here is some history on the steel Calatrava. The first steel Calatrava was the reference 96, but many other joined. The most sought after have larger 35/36 mm cases. References such as 570, 565, 2509/2508, 3417 are extremely sought after and with the right dial can fetch sums in excess of a million dollars. Perhaps the most desirable of all is the reference 530 (shared with the XL chronograph), with 36.5mm case.
During the 60’s we saw the emergence of the 35mm 3483/3466. There really wasn’t much after this in terms of a Calatrava steel, till the 150th Anniversary. Yes, there was the Nautilus but in terms of the classic wristwatch we had the reference 3718 and 3923 both made for the Japanese market only. The next steel Calatrava was for the refurbishment for the Patek Philippe HQ in Rue de Rhone, based on the historic 565, the ref.5565.
In the modern era we had the reference 5522 made for the Grand Exhibition in NYC and made in 600 pieces. A bold design based on the pilot travel time. There is also the ref 5212, a steel Calatrava with the new design direction with the step sided lugs, but not a simple time only (time & date) model with its unique weekly calendar complication.
So, this brings us neatly to the reference 6007. The first steel Calatrava with date? Before we look at the limited-edition reference, here is a background check. The lineage started with the reference 5000 back in 1992 with a limited release of 1000 pieces made in white gold over two years, with 33mm case, automatic with cal.240. Hence the offset subsidiary seconds. This followed by yellow gold and rose gold versions, including a special edition for Hausmann in 1994, in 100 pieces.
The 5000 series gave way to the reference 6000 in 2005. The model had a larger 37mm case in WG and offered the date along the circumference with a date pointer. Controversial amongst collectors and critics as they flaunted it as a very expensive. Harsh in my opinion, as it definitely tried to bring a modern look and aesthetic to the traditional looks of the 5000. A rose gold version soon joined the collection. Finally, in 2017 the reference 6006G was launched aesthetically similar but with a larger 39mm case, thus ending the regular Calatrava 5000/600x series. The last hurrah was the new 6007, in a steel case in a new 40mm case celebrating the new manufacture opening.
First impressions.
The timing of the release could not have been at worse moment for me personally, and I am pretty sure for many across the world. This edition didn’t quite sell out immediately, the world no doubt in state of pandemic chaos. I have a confession- I expressed an initial interest and potentially could have gotten one. However, at the time we were at the height of the pandemic and working 7/7 little time for watches. I never got back to my AD.
First impression was mixed. In the pictures, it looked modern and fresh, classic yet understated, casual but still elegant. I was not sure how it would look for real, the large 40mm case size also was a concern. My initial thoughts were why did they upgrade from 39mm (or even 37mm for that matter). I liked it but wasn’t truly convinced.
Online, in forums like this, complaints on the dial being stamped not guilloche and the printing on the case back. It was definitely not liked by all. Also, the use of the movement- the cal.324 and the lack of WR being 30m. The price was also deemed quite high for a time only steel watch on a leather strap. By the way- not everyone liked the strap either. For many this watch was conflicted on just what is was meant to be. Maybe trying too hard.
On the wrist.
In the summer of last year, I was able to have loan of the watch for a weekend. Gamechanger. On the wrist the watch tells a whole different story. It wears remarkably well for its 40mm, the dial is a chameleon, with 50 shade of blue. The strap was remarkably comfortable.
The size is actually perfect. The 6007a is I would say the very definition of the casual smart genre of wristwatch. It so perfect with a lounge suit, jacket or jeans and T-shirt. It just works. What surprised me was how well it sits on the wrist for a 40mm watch. Its relative thinness of just over 9mm helps in this regard. That “carbon” style embossing is scrupulously, beautifully done. I genuinely don’t think hand finishing would have brought anything to the party except a higher price. I would have preferred the newer 26-330 movement, but the 324 is hardly a poor second?
The best part is the way the dial changes in different lighting conditions. Going from deep blue shades to almost a very light metallic blue. The dial itself has three diverse indices, with an outer minute track, applied hours markers and what I would describe as an inner seconds counter- giving it a pseudo-scientific kind of appeal. It also has the ability to be a strap monster. If I had one, an orange strap would be on its way……
As for the printing on the back…….less said the better.
The case its self is classical 5000. A beautiful rounded bezel (Bombe?). The case is nicely polished and contrasts beautifully with the vibrance of the blue dial. The hands and the numerals have a functional luminosity to them. Sporty, serious, casual and elegant is how I think of the 6007.
It really is one that got away, and considering its half the desirability of a Nautilus in steel, I do think, this, even in the grey- may just be a very sagacious acquisition. Future classic status is assured.
The Patek Philippe Reference 565 is a historically significant model, recognized for its clean design and robust construction, which positioned it as a versatile timepiece within the brand's offerings during its production era. It represents a period of design evolution for Patek Philippe, moving towards more contemporary aesthetics while retaining traditional watchmaking principles. The reference is particularly noted for its varied dial configurations and case materials, appealing to a broad range of collectors. It often featured a two-piece case construction, contributing to its durability and distinct profile.
This reference typically houses a manual-winding movement, known for its reliability and precision. Early examples often featured movements such as the Caliber 12-120, a well-regarded mechanism of its time. The case, frequently crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, or rose gold, measured approximately 35mm in diameter, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The crystal was commonly acrylic, providing a warm aesthetic consistent with watches of its period.
The Reference 565 holds considerable appeal for collectors interested in Patek Philippe's mid-century output, particularly those seeking models that combine understated elegance with solid mechanical foundations. Its variations, including those with sector dials or retailer signatures, add to its collectibility. The reference serves as an important link in the brand's design lineage, bridging earlier styles with later developments, and is valued for its authenticity and historical context within the Patek Philippe catalog.
lucky to have this 5522A, although some may cringe on the size.
...the Hausmann version is sublime.
I really wanted one of these but were not fortunate unfortunately… did reach out when it was announced but to no avail… even though I thought the list price was on the high end for what it was… but hope they were allocated to good places!
Thanks for the great summary lead up and review. Very sporty with those wide lugs. Best
history of steel calatrava really brings context to this 6007 ! I do like the refreshing look of this chameleon dial with the unusual color ! đź‘Ť Furthermore, the strap is also quite unique and the whole watch a different touch vs other Calatrava pieces.
I was fortunate to get one allocated by Rhone. However my AD was not happy I didn't "bundle" it with a 5205R they had in stock
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