quattro's comprehensive overview of Patek Philippe's "Advanced Research" collection offers an invaluable look into the brand's commitment to horological innovation. This article meticulously details the six groundbreaking references that emerged from the department, showcasing Patek Philippe's pioneering work in new materials and technologies. For collectors and enthusiasts, understanding these advancements is crucial to appreciating the evolution of modern watchmaking.
Established in
2005 and now part of the Research and Development division, the
Patek Philippe "
Advanced Research"
department is dedicated to pioneering research in new materials, technologies, and design principles.
Physicists, engineers, microtechnicians and even acousticians were brought in to work and innovate in collaboration with watchmakers.
Since its creation, six references incorporating Advanced Research innovations have been produced.
Let's examine each of them in more detail.
2005 - PATEK PHILIPPE “ADVANCED RESEARCH” ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5250G-001
39 mm white gold case - Limited to 100 pieces
This first timepiece featured, for the first time, an escape wheel made of silicon, which was named "Silinvar" (a contraction of "silicon" and "invariable") because it is produced (in collaboration with the Institute of Microtechnology at the University of Neuchâtel) using a vacuum oxidation process and is significantly more robust than pure silicon.
This initial Silinvar escape wheel had 20 teeth.
Caliber 315 SIRM QA LU (SI)
The
Silinvar escape wheel is
light (density of silicon: 2.33 g/cm3 to 8 g/cm3 of steel),
hard (1100 Vickers to 700 Vickers of steel),
anti-magnetic, and
corrosion resistant.
It has an absolutely smooth surface, which does not need to be lubricated and thus does not wear down over time.
credit: Patek Philippe, Quill & Pad, Swisswatches Magazine, Phillips & Bonhams
2006 - PATEK PHILIPPE “ADVANCED RESEARCH” ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5350R-001
39 mm rose gold case - Limited to 300 pieces
This second timepiece featured a Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar.
The silicon-based material means that the hairspring is no longer susceptible to temperature fluctuations and is almost totally immune to wear and tear.
The
Spiromax hairspring features a unique
patented geometry with a
thicker outer end, known as the
Patek Philippe terminal curve.
This design ensures the
hairspring breathes concentrically which is critical for maintaining precise timekeeping.
Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU
credit: Patek Philippe, Quill & Pad, Christie's, Watches Website & Bonhams
2008 - PATEK PHILIPPE “ADVANCED RESEARCH” ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5450P-001
39 mm
platinum case - Limited to
300 pieces
This third timepiece featured a pallet fork made of Silinvar combined with a redesigned 16-teeth escape wheel (vs 20-teeth in 2005): this combination, named Pulsomax was of course used with the Spiromax hairspring introduced in 2006.
First image below: the
Silinvar pallet fork (left) vs. a
classic steel pallet fork with
ruby pallets (right)
Calibre 324 S IRM QA LU (SI)
credit: Patek Philippe, Swisswatches Magazine & European Watch Company
2011 - PATEK PHILIPPE “ADVANCED RESEARCH” PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5550P-001
37 mm platinum case - Limited to 300 pieces
This fourth timepiece featured a GyromaxSi balance: hourglass-shaped, the lightweight Silinvar body structure comes with two 24-karat gold rims and four gold poising screws.
The entire assembly of the Spiromax hairspring, redesigned Pulsomax escapement (fork and wheel) and new GyromaxSi balance was called Oscillomax.
Calibre 240 Q Si
credit: Patek Philippe, Swisswatches Magazine, Quill& Pad & Watch Club London
2017 - PATEK PHILIPPE "ADVANCED RESEARCH" AQUANAUT TRAVEL TIME REF. 5650G-001
40.8 mm
white gold case - Limited to
500 pieces
This fifth timepiece featured two main innovations: the first one was a revised Spiromax hairspring with an additional thicker part or end curve on the inside destined to counteract the influence of gravity.
The
second innovation was a
time zone corrector with an
elastic solid joint consisting of four intersecting leaf springs: two for each corrector pusher.
The dial was opened to reveal this new solid-state joint.
Caliber 324 S C FUS
credit: Patek Philippe, Swisswatches Magazine, Monochrome & Wrist Aficionado
2021 - PATEK PHILIPPE "ADVANCED RESEARCH" FORTISSIMO REF. 5750P-001
40 mm
platinum case - Limited to
15 pieces
For this sixth timepiece, the focus of the research was centred on the sound quality of the minute repeater.
A patented fortissimo “ff” system for sound amplification was added to the R 27 PS caliber.
This
amplification system consists of an
oscillating wafer made of
synthetic sapphire with a thickness of 0.2 mm.
In the middle of this wafer, a steel
sound lever resembling a
tuning fork is attached.
The
operation of this
amplifier module is
explained by the brand as follows:
“The other end of this sound lever that resembles a tuning fork features a flexible attachment with a thickness of 0.08 mm. When the hammers strike the gongs, their oscillations are transmitted to the sound lever which in a first phase amplifies them and transmits them to the rigid oscillating wafer where they are further amplified. The angular motion of the oscillating wafer excites the air layers above and beneath the sapphire glass, producing a noticeably louder sound.”
The
micro-rotor is made of
platinum, allowing to achieve the same density and winding efficiency with a
thinner profile.
credit: Swisswatches Magazine & Patek Philippe
For further information, check out this
excellent article by
Nico Bandl for
Swisswatches Magazine:
Pushing the Boundaries of Watchmaking: Patek Philippe Advanced ResearchThanks for
reading.
Best, Emmanuel
BONUS: VIDEOS
Review of the 5350R-001 by Tim Mosso
Review of the 5550P-001 by Tim Mosso
Review of the 5650G-001 by Tim Mosso
History of Patek Philippe Advanced Research Watches | Perpetually Patek by The 1916 Company
