Patek Philippe Aquatilus Ref. 5060S
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Aquatilus Ref. 5060S

By quattro · Mar 30, 2025 · 15 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, offers a deep dive into the Patek Philippe ref. 5060S, a pivotal reference often overlooked in the brand's modern history. His meticulous research and stunning photography illuminate this 'Aquatilus' model, showcasing its critical role as a transitional piece between the Nautilus and the first Aquanaut. This article provides essential context for understanding the evolution of Patek Philippe's sport watch lineage.

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Introduced in 1996, one year before the first officially named 'Aquanaut' model (ref. 5060A), the ref. 5060S has been a transitional model between the Roman numerals Nautilus ref. 3800 (about which I posted here) and the first true Aquanaut ref. 5060A: it had the same dial as the 3800 with Roman numerals and leaf hands, but had a redesigned 35 mm case (the 3800 was 37.5 mm) with lugs and without the iconic 'ears' of the Nautilus. This lugged case came with a leather strap and not with a bracelet. Officially part of the Nautilus collection and timeline, it was the first step towards the Aquanaut, its true precursor or forerunner.

This ref. 5060S (sometimes referenced without the 'S') was produced mainly in yellow gold (5060SJ) but also in rose gold (5060SR) and different dial variants were made, which you can see below. It is powered by caliber 330 SC.

Thanks for looking.

Best, Emmanuel


A/ ROMAN NUMERALS DIAL

1/ Yellow gold & black dial, ref. 5060SJ-001













credit: @aleksmladenovic (1-2) & Oliver & Clark (3-6)


2/ Yellow gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060SJ-010





credit: @queenbrandnames & everywatch


3/ Rose gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060SR-010











credit: a collected man (1-2), @classictimeclub (3 & 5) & analog shift (4) 


B/ THREE ROMAN NUMERALS & STICK INDEXES

Yellow gold & opalin dial (unknown exact ref. number)





credit: classic 55 & @oldwatchlady


C/ STICK INDEXES

Yellow gold & opalin dial, ref. 5060J-014









credit: Rolex Patek Market (1-3) & Patek Monger (4)


D/ DIAMOND INDEXES

Yellow gold & golden dial with the iconic horizontal embossed bars of the Nautilus (hidden reference number)











credit: menta watches 


E/ THE NAUTILUS 40th ANNIVERSARY & AQUANAUT 20th ANNIVERSARY TIMELINES







credit: monochrome & the hour glass

About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800

The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.

The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.

For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.

Specifications

Caliber
330 SC
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
37.5 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
100m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MD
mdg
Mar 30, 2025

...just don't like how the Romans were 'flipped' toward the bottom. Patek (and others) do this a lot and it bothers me to the point where I'd never buy one...

QU
quattro
Mar 30, 2025

I really like the yellow gold, black dial, roman numerals variant very much. I even think I would choose it over any Nautilus. Just my taste of course. Cheers, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Mar 30, 2025

including the flipped numerals and irregular space between them. I think I would choose this 5060SJ-001 over any Nautilus, but it's just my crazy taste. Anyway, thanks for your comment. Cheers, Emmanuel

SE
seabas132
Mar 30, 2025

I never knew this and agree that this is a great model. The secondary prices are not crazy considering the historical bridge of this piece. I am not usually a fan of yellow gold, but this variant with the black (and I like the version with the dark green strap) is amazing. This is exactly what they should re-release in a size 38 along with making the date window dark instead of white and I would hunt after it instantly.

QU
quattro
Mar 30, 2025

and I would definitely want it. Thank you so much for the kind words. Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Mar 31, 2025

Thanks for looking and for the kind words. Best, Emmanuel

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