Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref. 5098: A Collector's Encounter
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref. 5098: A Collector's Encounter

By quattro · Jul 4, 2025 · 47 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
47 replies5702 views24 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, shares his profound experience with the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098R-001. His detailed account, enriched with personal photos, delves into the watch's historical significance, intricate craftsmanship, and the unexpected allure it held in person. This article explores why this reference, initially feared to be 'dated,' became a serious acquisition consideration for a discerning collector.

47 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →
The other magical encounter among the watches I was able to try on in Paris last week was this Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098R-001.

I asked to try it on because I really love the "Gondolo & Labouriau" part of Patek Philippe's history, but I didn't expect to be so overwhelmed.

Dated? Old-fashioned and baroque? To be honest, this is how, judging only from photos, I was afraid it would feel. But in the metal, it's a completely different story.

In real life, the hand-made guilloché dial is simply mind-blowing (it's arguably the best I've ever seen) and the two curved cartouches with the brand name and model designation are delightful.

The arched tonneau case with welded screw-set flat lugs is delicate and sits perfectly on the wrist. 

And the 25-21 REC caliber, made specifically for this reference and never used in another one is a wonderful mix of traditional aesthetic (I love the S-shaped center-wheel bridge) and modern components and accuracy (Gyromax, 4Hz).


ON THE WRIST








IN THE HAND








IN A MIRROR














THE OPENED CASE




credit: Swiss Watch Expo


I liked this watch so much that I'm seriously considering to acquire it.

But, even if I love this rose gold variant, with its brown gilt hour scale, brown painted Breguet numerals and brown-colored gold pear-shaped hands, I would like to be able to see the platinum variant before making up my mind completely. 

The platinum variant, ref. 5098P-001 was launched in 2007 to commemorate the 80th anniversary of the last Gondolo & Labouriau watch sold in 1927 and most examples bear the Geneva seal, whereas almost all the rose gold variants, introduced two years later in 2009, bear the Patek Philippe seal, which feels less attractive to me.

Here are a few photos of the platinum variant.


PLATINUM VARIANT






credit: @watch_jae



credit: Swiss Watch Expo


Finally, to end this post and make it complete, let me add the original example from the Patek Philippe Museum (inventory no. P-1322, window 33, object 25) and the dedicated article from the Patek Philippe Magazine (Volume II, Number 9), that was very kindly posted for me by Bruckner4 (here).



credit: @jamieadamward








credit: Patek Philippe Magazine

About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro Ref. 5098

The Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro reference 5098P is a tonneau-shaped wristwatch that draws direct inspiration from the legendary Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches commissioned by the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early 20th century. First released in platinum in 2007, followed by a rose gold variant (5098R) in 2009, this model reinterprets the classic form with contemporary craftsmanship while preserving the Art Deco spirit of the original.

The case is crafted from 950 platinum, measuring approximately 32.3 x 42 mm in its distinctive tonneau form. It houses the manual-winding Caliber 25-21 REC, a rectangular form movement specifically designed to mirror the architecture of the case — visible through the sapphire case back. Unlike round calibers fitted with spacers, the 25-21 REC fills its housing with purpose-built elegance, a detail that resonates deeply with movement purists. The guilloché dial with its intricate engine-turned pattern pays homage to the decorative arts tradition of the 1920s originals.

The 5098P occupies a special place among collectors who value Patek Philippe's shaped watches and the historical connection to the Gondolo & Labouriau era. Its limited production run and the deliberate use of a form-fitted movement make it a connoisseur's choice within the Gondolo collection, offering an alternative to the more widely known rectangular references like the 5124.

Specifications

Caliber
25-21 REC
Case
Platinum
Diameter
32 x 42 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
QU
quattro
Jul 4, 2025

But would I like the black & white color scheme as much as I do the brown & rose gold one? That's my dilemma...

CO
COUNT DE MONET
Jul 4, 2025

Tried it on in rose gold, some 13 years ago I think, and loved it a lot! "Is this something for you?" the AD asked. The trouble was, I bought the 3738 Ellipse some month before from him ....

QU
quattro
Jul 4, 2025

but for me this expression doesn't do the watch justice because it emphasises what is generally perceived as old-fashioned preciosity. But this watch is so much more than that. It's one of PP's most historically significant or meaningful wristwatch reference and very few other ones have as much craftsmanship involved in every aspect of the watch: dial, case, lugs, crystal, movement. Anyway, I agree that the 3738 is another wonderful gem! Best, Emmanuel

SM
smironov
Jul 4, 2025

I also considered it, but went for 5100

QU
quattro
Jul 4, 2025

Future will tell if I end up buying one and which of these two references ! Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Jul 4, 2025

5098 is incomparable as far as historical significance and incredible dial is concerned (just my feeling of course). It’s also smaller and an overall slightly better fit for my wrist. But of course 5100 is more modern looking (nobody would call it a “dandy watch” as Count de Monet said for the 5098) and has a unique manta ray case shape. The movement is larger too (the 10-days is a technical prowess, but I don’t care too much about this aspect because I like to wind a watch daily). And both shar

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Patek Philippe forum with 47 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →