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Dje's original post delves into the profound question of why collectors are drawn to Patek Philippe, moving beyond specific models to explore the underlying allure of the brand. This introspective piece invites readers to consider the intangible qualities that foster a deep connection with these horological masterpieces. His comparison with Jaeger-LeCoultre further sharpens the focus on Patek Philippe's unique appeal.
Once again Basel time is coming. Once
again I'm clear with myself about which current Patek Philippe watch
could be my watch. Once again I know there's a risk (what a risk) of a
new model replacing my current dream!
As I'm
starting to think about what may come next, and starting again to try for
instance to imagine if we'll see a new men's manual wind
chronograph and how it will be, I wanted to try to define what I like in Patek
Philippe watches, and not especially which Patek Philippe I like.
To begin I
thought there were three aspects to examine. I could first think of other
watches I like and look for common aspects, or also for differences.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
is the other brand, the other watch manufacture that keeps appealing me,
perhaps even more each year, and even if I already own 8 of them! I wondered if
what I like in Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, what attracts me and keeps me hot
could be common with what makes me love some PP watches. In full consciousness
the answer is no. There are of course some bridges. A Jaeger-LeCoultre Master
Ultra Thin collection 1833
in pink gold could be compared with a Patek Philippe
5098R among my dearest choices, or more directly to a Patek Philippe 5196R,
another watch I really like.
Still what
watch in the Jaeger-LeCoultre range could I compare to a Patek Philippe 6000G,
a 5146G, a 5712/1A or a 5970P, to name my other favourites? Certainly none of
the current Jaeger-LeCoultre watches I like, the Amvox 2 and the Amvox3, the Duometres,
the Diving automatic or alarm Navy Seal, the Atmos Newson to name them!
How could I
compare a Gyrotourbillon 2 with a 5959 split second chronograph? I love their
common highest level of finish, but that's not what appeals me more in
them!
I love
Jaeger-LeCoultre watches because they offer a very modern vision of the
classical manufacture, innovating on the basis of a long history of
achievements, while forgetting all habits if necessary. It's somewhat a
revolutionary manufacture.
I love Patek
Philippe watches because they embody perfectly the continued and permanent
improvement of the highest horology, the sacred fire aimed at perpetuating the
excellence through invisible permanent change! They personify IMO the glory of
understatement, the wished modesty of a respectful and deserved self-assurance.
Patek Philippe 5959
That leads me
to the second aspect I wanted to explore. I wanted to try to state if there were
common aspects shared by my favourite current Patek Philippe watches.
I've named them above, here is the list again: 6000G, 5712/1A, 5098R,
5146G, 5970P (and a few more above in the range, that appeal nearly every watch
nut looking at them). If there's a common point out of the brand, that
can't be the case material or form, the dial colour, the complication,
the overall style, or a style detail.
One common
aspect: they all share a strong design, but it could be totally ignored by a
non WIS!
Maybe they share an extreme level of refinement of design each in their own
style, while having the capacity to remain under the radar! I could wear a
5970P at work every day, nobody would notice it, while I would probably spend
the day asking myself why I'm there with the most beautiful manual wind
perpetual calendar chronograph on the wrist!
Many keep
reminding the Oris calendar watches each time we see a picture of a 6000. But
why have I never been appealed by an Oris calendar?
I had never
been appealed by the 5712/1A before Nicolas put his own on my wrist. Why this
watch felt so instantly perfect while I never thought about it before? What
cocktail of beauty, form and function do Patek Philippe watches offer to become
so rapidly obvious when you've found the one that catches you?
I tried to
explore a third aspect to end my thoughts. I wondered if I could see why I was
not as much appealed by many other Patek Philppe watches. Well I can just say
now that I generally don't like much classical dressed watches. I
generally like a little "cherry on the cake", a little something
that would turn the deserving Cendrillon into a princess!
I'm
impressed by many Calatrava references for their simple beauty and calibres,
but I can definitely do without! They are like many paintings I love to look at
in museums, but that I have no desire to ever put them in my house! I feel no
need, no desire of ownership!
At the level of
high horology watches, we need and deserve perfect watches, perfect to our own standards,
what is certainly a defy for watchmakers! I need and desire beautiful Patek
Philippe watches with beauty in all details. I need designs that strike me. I
need watches that I can consider as masterpieces, as expressions of a statement
or idea, expressed to myself and not expressed by myself!
They are inner
watches in some way!
And you, do you
know why you love Patek Philippe watches?
Dje
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phases reference 5146, introduced in 2005, represents a significant offering in the brand's annual calendar complication lineage. This reference succeeded the popular 5035 and 5036 models, refining the aesthetic and technical presentation of the annual calendar with moon phases. It is characterized by its balanced dial layout, integrating day, date, month, moon phase, and power reserve indications in a legible and harmonious arrangement. The 5146 was produced in various precious metals, establishing itself as a core model within Patek Philippe's complicated watch collection for many years.
This particular iteration of the 5146 is presented in an 18k yellow gold case, measuring 39mm in diameter. It houses the self-winding Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU, a movement known for its reliability and precision, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for swimming or diving.
The reference 5146 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated daily wearable complication from Patek Philippe. Its annual calendar mechanism requires adjustment only once a year, at the end of February, offering practical convenience. The model was available with several dial variations and case materials throughout its production run, which concluded around 2020. The yellow gold variant with a silvery opaline dial offers a classic and understated presentation, aligning with traditional Patek Philippe aesthetics.
... i've tried so many times to figure it out. Especially, that in the 1st place, i found ALL patek meaningless. How did they grow on me, i have absolutly no idea. I think there is 2 kind of beauties in this world. 1st, the WOW effect, that often tend to fade with time 2nd, the more subtle kind of beauty that grows on you. This tend to be more of a timeless kind of love story. I have recently got a 5070R, a watch i desired for a long time. Until now, when i look at it, i still try to figure out
with a long history. So if I want a understated classic watch, I go to Patek and will only look at their most understated and classic design. To name a few, ref.2526, 3970, 5050, 5970, 2499, 5959, 5078, 3939, 5101......... They all share a similar kind of aesthetic that's meant to be really 'boring' and last forever, similar to the design and vibe of Dufour Simplicity. If I want anything modern, I will look elsewhere, such as RM, UrWerk or MBF. If I want something whimsical, I look at Journe. If
To not have given up the Brand... You want a Minute Repeater, a Chrono, a Tourbillon, a Celestial? You're a pure lover, I mean an authentic and sincere one, it won't be enough to get these pieces you dream about. It is somewhat frustrating, but some of their watches are fatal attractions. The 5070, the WT, some of their Calatravas, the Celestial are dream watches, to me. So I go ahead this frustration, and I still love the Brand for what it is. A nice finish, a timeless look, a touch of Romantis
I don't just love Pateks, I love a lot of other brands as well. Patek has many that I do love quite a bit however, I try to find the strength of a manufacturer and pursue the items that, in my opinion, they do better than anyone else. So for me, conservative dress watches and the like are Patek, sport watches are Rolex. All others are whims. I know that there are a lot of folks now who want to have this complication or that, and judge their choice by the complexity of the watch. I don't do that
Elegant, charming, unique, head-turner, trustworthy, thrill you with you, getting more beautiful everyday, last a life time, would trade your life for it, treasure for later generations. Finally, you will confess to your wife (Patek) after you had a fling (other brands)É Larry
I am a complete PP fan. But like Whit wrote: "conservative dress watches and the like are Patek, sport watches are Rolex" is also true for me...
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