Patek Philippe London AD Photo Tour

The Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro reference 5098P is a tonneau-shaped wristwatch that draws direct inspiration from the legendary Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches commissioned by the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early 20th century. First released in platinum in 2007, followed by a rose gold variant (5098R) in 2009, this model reinterprets the classic form with contemporary craftsmanship while preserving the Art Deco spirit of the original.

The case is crafted from 950 platinum, measuring approximately 32.3 x 42 mm in its distinctive tonneau form. It houses the manual-winding Caliber 25-21 REC, a rectangular form movement specifically designed to mirror the architecture of the case — visible through the sapphire case back. Unlike round calibers fitted with spacers, the 25-21 REC fills its housing with purpose-built elegance, a detail that resonates deeply with movement purists. The guilloché dial with its intricate engine-turned pattern pays homage to the decorative arts tradition of the 1920s originals.

The 5098P occupies a special place among collectors who value Patek Philippe's shaped watches and the historical connection to the Gondolo & Labouriau era. Its limited production run and the deliberate use of a form-fitted movement make it a connoisseur's choice within the Gondolo collection, offering an alternative to the more widely known rectangular references like the 5124.

The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5124 is a notable example of the brand's dress watch offerings, characterized by its restrained design and classic proportions. This reference was produced during a period when Montblanc was expanding its horological presence, offering timepieces that emphasized traditional watchmaking aesthetics. It represents a more accessible entry point into the brand's mechanical watch collection, appealing to those seeking a refined and understated wristwatch without excessive complications.

Encased in either 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, the 5124 features a case measuring 36 mm in diameter and 46 mm from lug to lug, providing a balanced presence on the wrist. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber 25-21 REC PS, offering a power reserve of 44 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and has a water resistance rating of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Montblanc's commitment to classical watch design and mechanical movements. Its availability in different precious metals and dial colors (silver or black) provides options for individual preference, while its lack of complications underscores its identity as a pure time-only dress watch. The 5124 fits within a lineage of watches that prioritize legibility and timeless style.

The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.

The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.

Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5140 is a perpetual calendar wristwatch, succeeding the highly regarded Reference 3940. It maintains the classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar layout, featuring day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase indications. The 5140 was introduced with a slightly larger case diameter than its predecessor, reflecting contemporary preferences while retaining a traditional aesthetic.

This reference is powered by the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240 Q, known for its micro-rotor construction which allows for a slender case profile. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is presented in 18k white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold cases, measuring 39 mm in diameter, and is fitted with a sapphire crystal. It offers water resistance to 30 meters.

The 5140 appeals to collectors seeking a modern perpetual calendar with a direct lineage to Patek Philippe's established complications. Its production run from 2006 to 2019 saw various dial configurations, including opaline and silvery finishes. The watch is typically paired with a leather strap and a deployant clasp, consistent with Patek Philippe's classic offerings.

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phases reference 5146, introduced in 2005, represents a significant offering in the brand's annual calendar complication lineage. This reference succeeded the popular 5035 and 5036 models, refining the aesthetic and technical presentation of the annual calendar with moon phases. It is characterized by its balanced dial layout, integrating day, date, month, moon phase, and power reserve indications in a legible and harmonious arrangement. The 5146 was produced in various precious metals, establishing itself as a core model within Patek Philippe's complicated watch collection for many years.

This particular iteration of the 5146 is presented in an 18k yellow gold case, measuring 39mm in diameter. It houses the self-winding Patek Philippe Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU, a movement known for its reliability and precision, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for swimming or diving.

The reference 5146 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated daily wearable complication from Patek Philippe. Its annual calendar mechanism requires adjustment only once a year, at the end of February, offering practical convenience. The model was available with several dial variations and case materials throughout its production run, which concluded around 2020. The yellow gold variant with a silvery opaline dial offers a classic and understated presentation, aligning with traditional Patek Philippe aesthetics.