New Release
Miranda, a respected voice in the Patek Philippe collecting community and a journalist who chronicled the Nautilus's rise, offers her initial impressions of the new Cubitus collection. Her unique perspective, shaped by years of observing Patek Philippe's design evolution and market reception, provides a valuable framework for understanding the brand's latest direction. She explores the implications for the iconic Nautilus and Aquanaut lines, drawing parallels to their initially polarizing, now legendary, status.
So now that the dust has settled, here are my thoughts on the future of the new collection as well as what may be the implications for both the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections.
The Cubitus was revealed avant première by “accident” a few days earlier than the official launch. The model featured was a platinum moonphase day date on strap. To be fair the instant knee jerk reaction wasn’t love at any sight.
So now that we have seen the first three models of the collection, what are my initial impressions, I am after all not a hater and have owned many different Patek Philippe models both vintage and new.
Before I begin, let me cast you back to the Nautilus. When I first started collecting, the Nautilus and particularly the Jumbo Nautilus was a popular as pimple on your arse. In 1995 the steel 3700 was worth considerably less than a steel and gold Submariner date with blue dial. I fell in love with it and owned two 3700 at different times. Sadly sold them well before any hype. I loved the Nautilus so much I wrote about the model and its history for both QP magazine and the now defunct 00/24 magazine in the Netherlands. As probably the only journalist extolling the virtues of the Nautilus, I had the privilege to write about the watch on the occasion of its 30th Anniversary for the Patek Philippe magazine. So yes I am devout Nautilus fan.
I first saw the Aquanaut in August 1997- not in person, back then you didn’t have the instant coverage you do now, I saw it on the cover of the French magazine Montres. I still have the magazine. Again I fell in love with the avant- garde risqué design. It was described as the Wart by the Moderator of the Patek forum on Timezone. Again hardly loved, I bought a ref 5065 in 1999, (sadly gone too- at a loss) with a 10% discount from Patek in Bond Street. So I have always loved the unusual, the ugly ducklings- though they are todays swans.
So, Cubitas, same reaction- instant love? Well no, but no hate either. I have been thinking about how the new collection has managed such a vitriolic reaction by many collectors. Well, more than the watch itself I blame the expectation that was created. What everyone was expecting was wholly new collection, and priced at an entry level. What we got was a new version of the Nautilus and a very expensive one at that. Now, if TS had said, the steel Nautilus needs a revamp, we are going bring the Nautilus Mk 2 (like the Speedmaster Mk 2) and it’s a premium product, I think the reaction would be more tempered. As it is, it appears like a curve ball, it’s certainly no entry level watch. Then there is the 45mm case. It’s huge. The question I keep asking myself is why do that? The overall design is not unappealing to me, I actually think it would work really well- if it was 39-40mm. Now TS has already said a mid-size will come. I think this will be a game changer personally. It will also be interesting to see how the complications will evolve in the collection- I hope if they make decent size, they should use that, the platinum version moon phase complication seems just too unbalanced. The movement is decent, I personally am not bothered about a square movement- 80% of what I want in a watch relates to its overall aesthetic and how it looks on my wrist. A mid-size with annual calendar a la 5726 in steel could definitely appeal to me- especially with a green dial. Doubt they would make such a thing.
So what happens with the Aquanaut and Nautilus? Well bearing in mind we have the 50th and 30th anniversaries coming up for both models respectively, I can see a revamp- especially with the steel models. I wonder if both the steel 5726/5712 are next in line for white gold makeover and will the steel 5167 survive (perhaps up to 2027). I can certainly see both collections becoming precious metal only- note: this is pure speculation by me- I have no insider info.
What does the future hold- Cubitus may well be the “entry”, especially if steel models are discontinued. Future models may well be better received. I think 45mm was a bridge too far, but it may be hitting the right spot for the rappers, footballers and boxers. I am tempted- no, but I won’t say I won’t be in the future, let’s wait and see what comes. It may yet blossom into a swan- if history is anything to go by.
The Patek Philippe Reference 5726 represents a significant milestone in the manufacture s annual calendar collection, combining the practical sophistication of an annual calendar with a sleek nautical aesthetic. Introduced as part of Patek Philippe s modern sports-elegant lineup, this reference demonstrates the brand s mastery in creating complicated timepieces that maintain everyday wearability. The 5726 builds upon Patek Philippe s rich heritage of calendar complications, offering collectors a contemporary interpretation of haute horlogerie that bridges the gap between dressy complications and contemporary sports watches.
At the heart of the Reference 5726 beats the exceptional Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, an automatic movement that showcases Patek Philippe s technical prowess in calendar mechanisms. This sophisticated caliber features an annual calendar complication that automatically adjusts for months with 30 and 31 days, requiring manual correction only once per year at the end of February. The movement incorporates a 24-hour indication alongside the traditional calendar functions, displaying day, date, month, and moon phases through elegantly arranged subsidiary dials. The self-winding mechanism ensures consistent power delivery while maintaining the thin profile necessary for the watch s refined proportions.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case presents a contemporary interpretation of classic Patek Philippe design language, featuring clean lines and perfectly executed finishing that exemplifies the manufacture s attention to detail. The striking blue sunburst dial creates remarkable depth and luminosity, with its rich color serving as the foundation for the symmetrically arranged calendar displays. Protected by a sapphire crystal and featuring a fixed smooth bezel, the 5726 balances functionality with aesthetic refinement. For collectors, this reference represents an accessible entry point into Patek Philippe s complicated watch segment while offering the prestige and technical excellence associated with one of horology s most revered manufacturers. The combination of stainless steel construction, practical complications, and distinctive design elements positions the 5726 as a highly desirable piece for both seasoned collectors and those building their first serious watch collection.
Same sentiment, not something I’m dying for, but not bad either, except the size, which is clearly visible in the adverts and on TS’s wrist. I can see a fantastic chronograph or a perpetual calendar being a hit granted they reduce the dimensions… All icons borne the exact same way!
the more I have read about it and the more images I have seen. While hardly a game changer and definitely something not entirely new it is an interesting and appealing derivatine of the Nautilus. Historically, square and rectangular Pateks were extremely desired and desirable, so nice to see a return to that shape in a modern Patek. Regarding the platinum while at first glance it is reminiscent of 5712, it is quite different. Not only the big date and platinum case on a strap - instead of having
I applaud PP for doing something new and I like the line. The reactions across the watch world have had a frantic finality to them and I just dont understand why? Maybe Patek stops making the Nautilus for a decade? They can always bring it back? Everyone is acting like this new line means product death for their long standing favourite when that’s just absurd. Rather than freak out and speculate about the future maybe just wait and see while enjoying a new Patek line instead?
The ugly stepchild of Cartier and AP
I was expecting a whole new line and maybe a shaped movement. If they said it would be a Nautilus 2.0 or maybe nautilus2 (squared). Then the watch is totally fine. The only criticism would be maybe a little too big for some (including my wrist). Francis
I was also expecting a shaped movement, quick change straps/bracelet, and one of their silicon projects to show up.
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