
Mark in Paris initiates a compelling discussion on Patek Philippe's dial and case color combinations, inviting the community to share their ideal pairings and fantasy references. This thread delves into the aesthetic choices that define Patek Philippe's appeal, exploring how different metals and dial finishes contribute to a watch's character. His personal preference for a white gold case with a lacquered black dial, inspired by the 5370P, sets the stage for a rich exchange of collector insights.

The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.
The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.
Personally think a bit of a shame that Patek decided to release a black dial 5170G in the same year as the 5370P. Visually too similar to be released together me thinks. Instead I would have loved to have seen a 5170R alongside the release of the 5370P. It would have made the black dial on the 5370P even more exclusive and I also think it would be more interesting to add to the 5170 in a new metal rather than another dial variation of the G. Hence in my world we should have seen a 5170R instead.
Is there any precedence in Patek's line of watches ? I think it's unlikely that Patek will do blue chronograph hands, for fear of following the likes of A.Lange & Sohn pieces, risking critique and falling in the shadows of ALS. But to dream is fun and harmless and occasionally we do have some surprises. Just my 2 cents.
I have the same feeling that you express in your first paragraph. I was surprised to see 2 black dial chronograph references at once. There was maybe a reason as the 5370P will remain very rare, at a very low production volume, hence, it allows other customers to have access to a more affordable version in the mean time. But from a wider picture I would also have prefered that the 2 offers' difference was more important. The combination you mention is something we were more used to seeing in YG+
But there is also an additional detail which makes the blue hand interesting on this 1518: the blue moonphase disk. I've seen it oxidized or painted in grey, white, black or in white gold in the recent models but a blue can fit too, if not too shiny (which Patek chronograph hands are not usually)
like they did for the London exhibition with 5970G. By they way, can someone provide pics oft the 5970J with black dial the did for the London exhibition? Thanks in advance! Best Tempus
I know Patek put a great dial on an Annual Calendar quite a few years ago-can't remember the reference. And I like dials that almost match the case color, such as Voutilainen has done. But cream is my favorite.
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