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Chewbacca's provocative post challenges the watch community to consider whether it's time for luxury brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet to evolve beyond the enduring legacy of Gérald Genta's iconic designs. He argues that while Genta was a genius, 50 years on, brands should strive for 'similar but different' and 'complementary but new' designs, much like Vacheron Constantin's Overseas line pays homage to the 222. This discussion explores the tension between honoring heritage and fostering innovation in high horology.
Following on the Cubitus talk.
It’s been 50 years and this man is in the grave now. Can we all agree he was a genius but it’s time to move forward? Vacheron have the Overseas line which is an homage to the 222 and I think AP and Patek should do the same. Similar but different. Complimentary but new.
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5711
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5711/1A is a specific configuration within the Complications model line. This particular reference is identified by its serial number 5914840, with a movement number 6084863.
The watch is presented in a stainless steel case, indicated by the "/1A" suffix. No specific details regarding the crystal material or movement architecture are provided.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe Complications model in stainless steel. Its specific serial and movement numbers are documented for identification purposes.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Blue, White
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 YG Ref. 15202
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" ref. 15202 is a significant reference within the Royal Oak collection, known for its close adherence to the original 1972 design. It maintains the distinctive slim profile and integrated bracelet that defined the initial Royal Oak, distinguishing it from other Royal Oak models that introduced different sizes or complications. This reference is particularly valued for its historical continuity and minimalist approach to the Royal Oak aesthetic.
This reference features a 39mm case, typically crafted from yellow gold, with a thickness of 8.1mm. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters. Powering the watch is the self-winding Caliber 2121, a movement known for its slimness and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The dial is presented in blue, complementing the yellow gold case and bracelet.
For collectors, the 15202 represents a direct link to the Royal Oak's origins, appealing to those who prioritize historical accuracy and understated design. Its production run from 2012 to 2019 makes it a sought-after reference among enthusiasts of the "Jumbo" lineage. The combination of its classic dimensions, integrated bracelet, and the Caliber 2121 solidifies its position as a key reference in the Audemars Piguet catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.2121
- Case
- yellow gold
- Diameter
- 39mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 50m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
- The integrated steel sports watch trend, while currently popular, has seen fluctuations, with earlier square models having their moment in the 1980s. The current demand for Genta-inspired designs might be a market-driven refresh rather than a stroke of genius.
- Patek Philippe's President, Thierry Stern, has publicly expressed concerns about the Nautilus's overwhelming popularity, yet the brand has continued to release numerous Nautilus and Aquanaut iterations. This suggests a contradiction between stated intentions and market-driven actions.
- Larger, established brands like Patek Philippe may struggle to be truly daring due to their scale and success, potentially hindering radical design innovation. Smaller independents, by contrast, possess greater agility.
- The market ultimately dictates success. As long as a new generation of Genta fans exists, brands will continue to produce these designs. Consumer choice, expressed through purchasing decisions, is a powerful force in shaping the industry's direction.
- Turning the page entirely on Genta is an extreme view. Brands face a dilemma: innovate and risk failure, or draw from heritage and be accused of lacking novelty. Genta's designs, like the Nautilus and Royal Oak, took time to achieve their current iconic status.
- The responsibility for design evolution isn't solely with the brands; consumer demand plays a significant role. If demand for iconic Genta designs were lower, brands might be more inclined to innovate.
- While Genta's designs were crucial for the Swiss mechanical watch industry, their longevity might be more attributable to celebrity and marketing than pure watchmaking finesse. Furthermore, many current designs attributed to Genta are not his original creations.
- Iconic models like the Nautilus and Royal Oak should remain staples, similar to the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch or Rolex Submariner. However, this shouldn't preclude brands from exploring new design approaches, though the 'Cubitus' is seen by some as a poor interpretation.
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