Vintage
Dje's retrospective on the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse for its 40th anniversary offers a deep dive into a design icon. This article explores the watch's unique case form, inspired by the Golden Ratio, and its evolution since 1968. Dje highlights how the Golden Ellipse, despite its various iterations, maintains a singular aesthetic that sets it apart in Patek Philippe's storied history.
1968 was the
year to break the rules ! Patek Philippe choose 1968 to break the square
and the circle to melt them in a new shape, the Golden Ellipse!
The 40th anniversary platinum Golden Ellipse Toi et Moi
You may wonder
why a platinum watch is still called « Golden Ellipse"?
Golden refers
to the Golden proportion, divina proportio ,
defined by the Greek mathematician Hippasos, around 450 before JC.
A remarkable case form
Since 1968
Patek Philippe produced many different versions with this case form.
Only one common aspect, the ellipsoidal case
In fact these
numerous watches shared only one aspect, the ellipsoidal case form.
The Breguet Ellipse
Quite obviously
some versions seen from today may seem a bit dated, at least for some ! 
The magical blue dial
Symbolic of the
original model, the blue gold dial has crossed the times as a best kept secret
(for its production).
Precious Ellipse
The Golden
Ellipse was available on straps or bracelets. A special buckle was created to
match the case form.
The Golden Ellipse tang buckle
Patek Philippe
even produced a version with traditional strap attachments.
More classical
Unfortunately
you'll have to excuse my poor pics got from catalogs!
90s selection
For long the
Golden Ellipse collection has proposed a selection of accessories. This
opportunity is coming again.
Accessorized
The best news
of the last years was the launch of the current collection. This limited
collection offers a very pure and simple watch design.
The key ring
So far the
current collection was offering three colour options. The chocolate dial on a
pink gold case was my favourite.
Chocolate Ellipse
The white gold
version was still very beautiful and maybe its grey dial was closer to the
spirit of the original than the chocolate one.
Current range
Still Patek Philippe
probably thought some were regretting the blue dial of the original in a white gold case.
White gold Ellipse
So let's
come back to this anniversary. The main watch of the set is a large size
platinum Golden Ellipse and this model is going to be a regular production (the
white gold cuff links too).
Pink gold Ellipse
The large size
and the smaller size model will share the same calibre 240 used in the other
current models.
Calibre 240
The two watches
are offered in a set with cuff links and a white gold necklace with a diamond
set golden Ellipse pendant. The set is limited to 100 pieces and the smaller
watch and the necklace will not be produced out of this set.
Platinum Golden Ellipse
The superb platinum
cased Golden Ellipse is fitted with a diamond at 6, like all current platinum watches
from Patek Philippe.
Anniversary set
The blue gold dial
is back in its full glory with this first ever platinum case!
The case form
is also much better expressed in its full purity!
You and me
Oh by the way,
the watch has its platinum Golden Ellipse buckle……
Tempted?
Dje
Ps: maybe next year we could get a blue dial platinum 6000P! Please!
The Patek Philippe reference 6000 was introduced in 2005 as a distinctive Calatrava model. It features an off-center dial layout and a date indication around the periphery, setting it apart from more traditional Calatrava designs. This reference offered a contemporary interpretation of a classic dress watch, appealing to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe with a unique aesthetic while retaining the brand's horological standards.
This reference is housed in a 37 mm case, available in 18k white gold or 18k rose gold. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 25 meters. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 240 PS C, which provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back.
The 6000 series appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's modern production that deviates from conventional layouts. Its design, with the off-center time display and pointer date, offers a different character compared to other Calatrava models. The reference was produced until 2009, making it a relatively short-lived model within the brand's catalog.
I have owned the golden elipse blue dial in white gold for ten years now and have always loved it. People would have laughed at me for being old fashioned. I truly think that it is a very unique watch, a class of its own. Classy, understated. Thanks again for you wonderful article and pictures!! It reminds me to take it our of the box and wear it again!!!
...it's been a week or so since I bought my first Patek Philippe...a very beautiful Golden Ellipse ref. 3548, dated aprox. 1970, caliber 23-300PM,with chocolate dial...it runs extremely well for a 40 years movement, recently serviced(+10 sec per day). I read in one review that cal. 23-300 is considered one of the best manually wound movement from Patek's golden age era...I would like to find out more and your oppinions about it...I noticed that here are discussed more, the Patek's newer or more
I have always hankered after a blue faced Ellipse but could never bring myself to buy one A recent article in PP magazine has re-invigorated interest in this model Julian
Hi My first ellipse in yellow gold blue dial is wound by hand. I never had any trouble with this watch - never had to change the strap Keeps good time Glad that you like this model and hopefully they will make future versions in platinum now that they have started this trend. Hand wound Ellipse in yellow gold 1980's
Thanks Dje for the superb review. I was hoping to see photos of the stainless steel model. Any chance?
i love them all! The Anniversary Set is perfect!! Thanks for posting, great watches Ian
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