Patek Philippe: Mainstream Appeal & Hip-Hop Influence

patrick_y · 2022-02-26T20:30:08Z

Explore the impact of mainstream appreciation and rap music on Patek Philippe's brand desirability. Patrick_y leads a WatchProSite discussion on luxury brand evolution.

patrick_y

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

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Patrick_y, a moderator and esteemed member of the WatchProSite community, delves into the evolving perception of luxury watch brands, specifically Patek Philippe, as they transition into mainstream consciousness. He critically examines the unexpected role of rap music and celebrity culture in this shift, prompting a vital discussion on whether widespread appreciation enhances or diminishes a brand's exclusive allure for traditional collectors.

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Moderator Patrick_y explores brand perception and asks if our appreciation for a brand changes as that brand turns mainstream. And a little background on how a brand turns mainstream without the use of traditional advertising nor social media, but with rap music.

American Rapper Future sporting a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980R and a cigarette burn. Credit: Paras Griffin Getty Images

Patek Philippe and other brands have hit the mainstream largely in part due to advertising, social media, and rap music. And what was once a quiet luxury brand is now being rapped about and desired to be owned by not only watch savants, but by an increasingly very wide and diverse audience. The photo above features "Future." Mr. Future is an American Rapper who likes to rap about how he cheats on multiple women (his audience is not from a country that supports polygamous marriages) and yet the knowingly scorned woman still peels grapes for him. He's featured above in a photo with a beautiful 5980R on his left wrist which also has a prominent cigarette burn.

The following took some research... I spoke with a music historian and a popular culture expert about why certain brands became more appealing and how many luxury brands turned mainstream. They pointed out some aspects of consideration that I didn't immediately realize which I'll summarize here:

1. "Movies started singling out brands and department stores as early as the 1950s and 60s. Recall the success of "Breakfast at Tiffany's" and its enduring sentiment for young girls worldwide, promoted luxury brands." I was shocked. I reminded my expert that Audrey Hepburn portrayed a materialistic call girl and escort, hardly the role model I would want for any child. I was thoroughly rebutted and reminded of the long-lasting appreciation of this award winning film.

2. Movies like the James Bond franchise exposed audiences to the romantic world of luxury goods and travel as the jet-age set in. Bond movies among others became increasingly good product-placement movies. I tried to argue that I'm not influenced by product placement and celebrity endorsements, but I was quickly convinced that I learned about certain brands completely due to their movie placement. And that their product placement either introduced me to the brand or more quickly legitimized the brand had I only seen it at a department store.

3. Music videos became popular in the late 1980s and by the mid 1990s when rap music became very popular, there was a large amount of product placement in these videos. Perhaps the largest one was in the late 1990s where multiple rap musicians started to don Burberry and mentioned the brands Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi, and Burberry by name in their music. A professor of music history pointed out here, "a large population of young children listening to rap music could identify more luxury brands than some doctors and lawyers at the time."

I eventually sprang my final and most important question to the experts. "Will the exposure and introduction into the mainstream of these once niche and in-the-know brands ruin their brand desirability amongst the traditional audience? Specifically referring to the watch world?" I was met with this response and I came to my own realization this response.

Entertainment Industry Expert: "Generally, no. If you look at how luxury car brands have been mentioned again and again in rap music videos, it hasn't reduced the appeal of them. There will always be a segment of the population who will desire the icons of success. Ask yourself, do you find Lamborghini and Rolls-Royce to be desirable brands?" And I have to say he's correct. He's even more correct than he knows, Rolls-Royce Motorcars and Lamborghini Automobili just had their best years ever, despite the economic crisis and the automotive parts shortage.

Academic Professional about Music History: "Combining music and economics has always proven to be a good business choice for all. Smaller independent brands [like Supreme] appreciate being mentioned by musicians as this exposure legitimizes the brand. Established brands [like Gucci and Louis Vuitton] appreciate being mentioned by rap musicians as this exposure implies to the world they are still relevant." And, "furthermore, rap music medium is no longer underground and is well appreciated by those in high society, Hamilton (the Broadway show) further legitimizes the genre, and history has shown that jazz music which used to be considered underground music is now considered a fine art-form." I wholeheartedly agree, I enjoy jazz very much, and while I didn't especially like Lin-Manuel's Hamilton, I did find it to be very clever.

My own realization...

While I personally find the above image of Mr. Future as somewhat surprising to see him wearing a Patek Philippe, I realize I'm in a very tiny minority. Would I buy more independents like Ludovic Ballouard, Urwerk, and MB&F or other brands that aren't rapped about? Maybe. One thing that my experts convinced me of is to become a rap musician and rap about all the watch brands, and that this would definitely help me get myself onto the waiting list for all those hard to get watches! So if you hear a big rapper rapping about Steel Daytonas, Royal Oaks, Nautilus, and Journes, don't be surprised if I sold him the lyrics! To all the future rappers out there, remember you got the idea here on WatchProSite and remember to post your rapped-about-watches for us to see!

What are your thoughts about Patek Philippe going extremely mainstream? Happy for Patek Philippe to get the recognition it deserves? Or sad that another "well-kept-secret" brand becomes too mainstream. Does it want to push you towards more independent brands and non-mainstream brands? Are you going to start making rap music about watch brands?

Thank you for reading and I look forward to reading your comments! My answers are below as well.

About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980

The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced in 2006, marking a significant evolution for the Nautilus line by integrating a chronograph complication. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus chronograph, presenting a sportier and more technically complex option within the collection. It maintained the distinctive porthole-inspired case design while adding a monopusher flyback chronograph function, consolidating the chronograph registers into a single sub-dial at 6 o'clock.

This reference features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, characteristic of the Nautilus's robust yet refined aesthetic. It is powered by the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 45-55 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 120 meters, underscoring its design as a luxury sports watch.

The 5980 appeals to collectors seeking a Nautilus with additional functionality beyond time and date. Its introduction expanded the model's appeal, offering a more intricate mechanical experience while retaining the core design elements. The blue-black gradient dial is a signature feature, contributing to its distinct visual identity. This reference was produced until 2014, making it a specific period piece within the broader Nautilus chronology.

Specifications

Caliber: CH 28-520 C

Case: Stainless Steel

Diameter: 40.5 mm

Dial: Blue-black gradient

Water Resist.: 120m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Mainstream exposure, exemplified by Rolex, can increase market awareness and cement a brand's desirability, boosting perceived value, though not necessarily intrinsic value. It also doesn't impact collectors focused on scarce, limited-run pieces.
The contributor recounts his personal journey discovering Patek Philippe through a fellow collector, noting how the brand's superior finishing, like anglage, distinguished it from others he admired, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, before he understood its hierarchical status.
While acknowledging that 'no publicity is bad publicity,' one collector asserts that mass-media product placement and advertising do not influence their personal affinities or purchasing decisions for luxury goods; appeal must be inherent, not manufactured.
A significant draw of Patek Philippe for some collectors is its deliberate lack of official brand ambassadors, a strategy that aligns with the typical Patek customer's desire to embody their own image rather than that of a celebrity.
The author expresses annoyance at the ubiquity of certain Patek Philippe models, specifically the Nautilus, at exclusive events like the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance, noting a 'uniform' effect among attendees.
The contributor questions the credibility of celebrity endorsements, suggesting that while some actors like Pierce Brosnan may be genuine collectors, others like George Clooney, despite their appeal, lack the horological expertise to genuinely influence watch purchases.

The Discussion

patrick_y

Feb 26, 2022

High horology is an art form that has gone underappreciated for years. And I'm happy that Patek Philippe has become so successful that it's mainstream. It wasn't easy. It took a lot of time, patience, manpower, and money to shape the brand into what it is today. And credit for good work is due there. BUT, something about me still wishes that high horology was for people in the know. Watch savants. Not mainstream. Like how Porsches used to be driven by people who loved driving and not just people

Jim14

Feb 26, 2022

To me, this is hardly a sign of the brand "going mainstream", so I disagree with your premise. Also, you seem to think PP is (or was) a secret? I disagree there as well.

Thomas_3

Feb 26, 2022

or could it just be the "watch of the moment" to him? Granted, he may know more about watches than any man alive. Personally I think a lot of rappers, entertainers etc. wear what seems to be fashionable at the time. Maybe I'm all wrong on this.

AuHavrePro

Feb 26, 2022

as the 'poster' brand for your analogy. Do I mind any brand obtaining greater visibility/exposure through mass-media product placement and general advertising? Of course not, as they say, no publicity is bad publicity.... With this said, does that drive my own affinities and purchase behaviors? Absolutely not, it never did, even when I was a kid. I always sought products and services that I felt resonated with me personally for whichever philosophical reasons. Unless, of course, you are talking

christianch

Feb 26, 2022

pricing was high but still understandable. There were some wailists for sport models but everything else (or almost) was in stock. When there was a list it was just possible to be patient and get surprised in a few months. Like you pointed out Patek was a bit of a well kept secret among watch conoisseurs. Today, it is not. I have to admit that I feel that wearing some Patek models is no longer discreet or cool. Is just a "flex" like in the case of rappers and many nouveau collectors that just ju

Steve E

Feb 26, 2022

to consider Patek mainstream. When I bought my 5711 in 2012 you could just walk into the AD, hand over the plastic, and take the watch home. I liked it that way and the Nautilus was my primary daily wear for the next 5.years. Didn't matter to me who saw it or what they thought - it was pretty much just a non-event thing to wear it - even with my Rolex wearing CEO. A couple years ago I put the Nautilus in the bank deposit box, and a couple weeks ago I sold it. What had been a favorite low key pie

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