Emmanuel (quattro) offers a compelling deep dive into two often-overlooked Patek Philippe Nautilus references, the 3800/1A-001 and 3710/1A-001. His detailed analysis highlights their unique characteristics, such as Roman numerals and distinct complications, positioning them as attractive alternatives for collectors who appreciate dressier interpretations of the iconic sports watch. This article provides valuable context for understanding the evolution of the Nautilus line beyond its most famous iterations.
For those who, like me, are more attracted to dress watches than to sports watches, the Patek Philippe ref. 3800/1A-001 (or 3800/1A-XII) & 3710/1A-001 might be the best iterations of the Nautilus. At least, personally, they're the ones I feel the most attracted to.
Introduced in
1981 (but available only one year later in 1982) and produced until
2006, the
ref. 3800 was the
midsize brother of the original ref. 3700, with a
37.5 mm case (instead of 42 mm). It was the first Nautilus with an
in-house automatic movement,
caliber 335 SC with
central seconds (the letters SC stand for 'seconde centrale' in French and the original ref. 3700 didn't have a seconds hand). The caliber was later improved with a quick-set date, the Geneva Seal and a 3 Hz frequency and became 330/134 SC in 1992 and 330/194 SC in 1997. The ref.
3800/1A-001 with
white gold applied
Roman numerals seems to have been introduced in
1996 and has a deep
black lacquer
dial with
leaf hands and a printed railroad minutes track. This model is historically important, because it served as a model for the
precursor of the Aquanaut: the ref.
5060S (about which I posted
here).
Introduced two years later in 1998, the ref. 3710/1A-001 sometimes referred to as 'The Comet' was the first-ever Nautilus to feature a complication other than the date or central seconds function, with the integration of a power reserve indicator made of a metallic graduated scale that rotates as the watch is being wound and a pointer that rotates as power is discharged. It was also the first time that the original 'Jumbo' case proportions (42 mm) were used in a Nautilus other than the initial 3700. Exclusively produced in stainless steel until it was discontinued in 2006, the 3710/1A-001 features a matte black dial with applied Roman numerals and a central seconds hand. The power reserve indicator, or IZR for 'Indication de Zone de Remontage', is displayed between 11 & 12 o’clock, an asymmetric placement which makes this reference even more charming, imo. The brand signature is unusually placed at 6 o'clock.
These two models are presented in reverse chronological order.
Have a great Sunday!
Emmanuel
A/ Ref. 3710/1A-001 aka 'The Comet' with caliber 330 SC IZR
1/ Wrist shots

credit: @andri.watch
2/ Static shots

credit: watches of knightsbridge
3/ A unique execution of the 3710/1A, dubbed the 'Lucky Thirteen', where the roman numeral VIII is replaced by XIII at the request of a superstitious owner 
credit: phillips
4/ An example of Certificate of Origin 
credit: watches of knightsbridge
B/ Ref. 3800/1A-001 with caliber 335 S C (Watchbase uses ref. 3800/1A-XII, but Certificates of Origin use ref. 3800/1A-001)
1/ Wrist shots


credit: @timelessvintage.watch (1), @tavli1968 (2), @watchbrotherslondon (3), @berendloveswatches (4) & amsterdam vintage watches (5)
2/ Static shots
credit: @rivewatch (1), @swisswatchexpo (2), Amsterdam vintage watches (3-6)
3/ An example of Certificate of Origin

credit: christie’s
4/ A gorgeous version of the Roman numerals 3800 in yellow gold, ref. 3800/1J

5/ A different dial layout of the 3800/1J with only three Roman numerals, luminous hour dots and baguette hands (I personally like it a lot less)

credit: analog shift
C/ ADDITIONAL ELEMENTS 1/ A 1999 listing of the different dials available for the ref. 3800 (courtesy of John Nagayama)
2/ Caliber 335 SC (left) & 330 SC (right) 
credit: a collected man
3/ The Nautilus 40th Anniversary Timeline

credit: monochrome
About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800
The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 330 SC
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 37.5 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire