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GirlAndHerWatches embarks on a quest for a perpetual calendar, navigating the choices of modern Patek Philippe references like the 5320G, 5270P, and the Nautilus PC. Her thoughtful post explores the aesthetic and technical considerations for a younger, female collector in a traditionally male-dominated hobby. This discussion offers valuable insights into the decision-making process for acquiring a significant complication.
Hi All,
I always loved watches for their technical aspects and as something you can wear on a daily basis ever since I was young. However, I only started really appreciating the beauty, workmanship and details that can make or break a watch. Also being female, in a predominantly male dominated passion (for now), it has been an exciting last several years, especially from Patek! It was great seeing cbb and her collection and genuine enjoyment she gets.
I have received wisdom over the years from several of the members on the forum but I thought this was the right first post.
The Hunt for a Perpetual Calendar
I have been looking for a perpetual calendar (unisex), the ladies choice is easy, for several years now. Given I am a newer and younger collector, I was looking for a more modern/different approach.
Last year at Basel 2017, the 5320G was a welcome sight and had set myself on it. As many are aware, it did not start delivering until later in the year and is still not the easiest watch to get. This delay gave me a lot of time to think and when I think too much, it is not always a good thing. I had made up my mind late last year that I would wait for Basel 2018 given I have not gotten the watch yet.
Basel 2018 introduced the Nautilus Perpetual and 5270P in Salmon Dial.
If I could have designed the perfect watch, it would have borrowed many of the components from all these watches. On a high level, it would have been:
5320P with/
The nautilus perpetual is long overdue (almost so much that I was ready to buy a royal oak perpetual). The dial does seem a bit crowded but think it is done as best as it could be so I am fine with the crowding. What does bother me is the metal choice. Nothing wrong with it, but as someone looking to buy one variation of the watch, a SS or Platinum variation would have made the entire decision a lot easier.
The 5270P, I almost did not want to see this. I loved the 5970P and always am in awe when I see it. This version is almost as good, keyword being almost and unfortunately, I feel like I would also think about this comparison. The 5270 series in general has been tough for me and I have not been able to fall in love yet. In addition, I was looking for a QP and not a QP + Chrono. I probably rather have the 5170P and 5320G than this one watch or 5320G and the 5370P. But, platinum salmon Patek Perpetual Chrono is always to die for. Hence, why I almost did not want to see this.
Given all this, I wanted to ask the forum members, a couple questions. I know most questions on the forum are open ended but thought it might be easier if I was more direct.
The issue with waiting, which I am usually very patient is, I do really value having the watch earlier so I can enjoy it as soon as possible and sometimes waiting for something that may never happen is tough.
I wish I was in a position to buy all these watches as they are indeed all very different but given the price points, it does not allow for that.
Sharing a photo to commemorate the start of Spring.
The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.
The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.
With respect to your questions, I unfortunately can't respond to most as I tend to try to refrain from polluting others with my own horrible tastes 😔🤐😔. On one topic - that of a SS PC Nautilus - I'll offer my opinion for what it's worth. In short, no. I do not believe PP will make a SS PC Nautilus in any regular production reference, nor do I believe steel belongs on a PC Nautilus. Would a one-off or very, very limited run reference be cool, of course, but I think it stops there (and that itself
I think waiting for an exact and perfect combination might be futile. Given your choices, I think it's wise to thing about the practical short comings of a manual perpetual chronograph. Miss one day of winding and you have work to do.. PC + (split) chrono might be the best path here imho. That's my route anyhow. As for the simple chrono, we think alike. More to come on that one. Thomas
But I might pick the blue 5327 over 5320. But if 5170p, then certainly 5320! Thomas
...an eternal classic... Or the 5940...I LOVE...the case shape. You can't go wrong with either. The point being, both are thin and elegant. I happen to have a preference for yellow gold (it goes with my swarthy complexion) : )...and it is classic and will never go out of style. Good luck... PS...it's nice to have some ladies here...one of my best friends, a lovely woman, is as addicted to watches as I am, and wears a stunning Blancpain as her 'daily.'
And welcome, it’s always nice to hear from female members, not enough in my opinion! Your dilemma is indeed tough, I prefer the 5320G over the other choices you mentioned. However to throw you a curve ball, have you thought of the 5059G, limited edition, white gold with salmon dial? If you manage to find pictures online, I know of an AD selling a brand new one, PM me if interested and I will point you in the right direction
First I have to say, that my opinion is probably not the most elaborate one, because I prefer time-only watches (at most with a simple date) and chronographs, so I judge your three choices purely by aesthetics. Out of these three, I‘d go for the 5320g. It has good proportions and a design, that’s nice and interesting, but not too flashy. Also there’s nothing disturbing me. If I‘d go for a 5270, I‘d go for the 5270g with the blue dial, because I found that salmon dials don‘t do it for me on the l
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