WatchProSite contributor joenghenry shares an exclusive first look at his new Patek Philippe platinum Calatrava Ref. 6196P, a novelty piece he received with surprising speed. His initial impressions offer valuable insights into the watch's design nuances, including its rose-gilt opaline dial and the feel of its 30-255 caliber. Henry's post also provides a comparative perspective on the 40mm Cubitus, making this an essential read for collectors considering Patek Philippe's latest offerings.
Thanks my new AD for allocating the novelty to me so quickly, even before the traditional watch viewing event….
The rose-gilt opaline (aka salmon) dial has a nice dome shape (difficult to be shown in wrist shot), resembling vintage dress watch. The winding of 30-255 caliber is also nice, though the clicking is not as discrete as my 5270.
Got a chance to see the 40mm Cubitus too, which feels slightly small on my 17.5cm wrist, a bit like the 3700/ 3800.
Cheers, Henry
6196P, 7128/1G



About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Jumbo Ref. 3700
The Patek Philippe reference 3700 is recognized as the original Nautilus model. It established the distinctive porthole-inspired case design and integrated bracelet that define the collection. This reference was produced for a significant period, laying the foundation for subsequent Nautilus iterations and solidifying its place in the brand's sports watch offerings.
This reference features a stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter and 7.6 mm in thickness, fitted with a sapphire crystal. It houses the self-winding Caliber 28-20 C, which provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is water-resistant to 120 meters and typically presents with a blue dial, offering a date complication.
The 3700 appeals to collectors interested in the foundational pieces of significant watch lines. It represents the initial vision for the Nautilus, preceding later mid-size and complicated versions. Its production run from 1976 to 1990 saw various dial and bracelet configurations, making specific examples of interest to those studying the model's evolution.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 28-20 C
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 42 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference 5270 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, succeeding the highly regarded reference 5970. It represents a significant evolution in Patek Philippe's grand complications lineup, being the first perpetual calendar chronograph to feature an in-house developed movement. This transition from a modified Nouvelle Lemania base caliber to a fully integrated Patek Philippe movement marks a notable advancement in the brand's technical independence and horological prowess. The 5270 maintains the classic aesthetic of its predecessors while introducing subtle design refinements.
The reference 5270 is housed in a 41 mm case, available in 18k white gold, rose gold, or yellow gold. The case design is characterized by a concave bezel and two-tier lugs, contributing to its distinctive profile. It is powered by the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS Q, an integrated chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar mechanism. This movement offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is protected by a sapphire crystal, ensuring water resistance up to 30 meters.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a modern interpretation of a classic grand complication from Patek Philippe. Its in-house movement and refined case details distinguish it within the brand's offerings. Multiple dial variants have been produced, including silver, blue, and opaline, providing collectors with a range of aesthetic choices. The 5270 continues the tradition of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar chronographs, offering a blend of technical sophistication and traditional design.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 41 mm
- Dial
- Multiple variants available
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800
The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 330 SC
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 37.5 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 6196
The Patek Philippe reference 6196 is a notable offering within the brand's contemporary collection, distinguished by its focus on a specific aesthetic and mechanical presentation. This reference typically represents a particular design direction, often incorporating elements that appeal to collectors seeking a blend of traditional watchmaking with modern sensibilities. It stands as an example of Patek Philippe's continuous refinement of its core offerings, providing a distinct option for enthusiasts.
This timepiece features a case crafted from a precious metal, housing a self-winding mechanical movement. The specific caliber employed is known for its precision and reliability, offering a power reserve suitable for daily wear. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and its construction provides a degree of water resistance appropriate for a dress watch. The case dimensions are carefully considered to provide a comfortable fit on the wrist while maintaining a significant presence.
For collectors, the reference 6196 appeals to those who appreciate Patek Philippe's commitment to horological excellence in a refined package. Its position within the broader catalog highlights the brand's ability to produce timepieces that are both technically accomplished and visually appealing. The various iterations of this reference, if any, would further define its appeal to different segments of the collecting community, making it a point of interest for those studying the brand's recent output.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C
- Case
- Rose gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 6196P
The Patek Philippe reference 6196P is a notable addition to the brand's collection, distinguished by its platinum case and a focus on refined aesthetics. This reference presents a classic round case profile, embodying Patek Philippe's enduring design principles while incorporating contemporary elements. It is designed to appeal to collectors who appreciate understated luxury and the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking. The model integrates seamlessly into the broader Patek Philippe catalog, offering a sophisticated option for those seeking a dress watch with significant horological substance.
This reference features a platinum case, a material often reserved for Patek Philippe's more exclusive timepieces, underscoring its premium positioning. The watch is powered by a mechanical movement, showcasing the brand's expertise in crafting precise and reliable calibers. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, while the case construction provides a degree of water resistance suitable for daily wear. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, allowing appreciation of its finishing.
For collectors, the 6196P represents a significant piece due to its platinum construction and the inherent value associated with Patek Philippe's limited production in this material. It appeals to those who prioritize material rarity and mechanical integrity over overt complications. The watch's design ensures its relevance within a collection focused on high-horology dress watches, offering a blend of traditional Patek Philippe styling with the distinct character of a platinum timepiece.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 39 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire