Patek Philippe 2023 Rare Handcrafts Collection

Pretty Boy · 2023-03-20T21:20:56Z

Explore Patek Philippe's 2023 Rare Handcrafts Collection, featuring automotive-inspired pieces and iconic Calatrava designs. Learn about the historical significance of the hobnail bezel, the legendary Caliber 240, and expert advice on acquiring these unique timepieces.

Pretty Boy

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

65 replies14997 views2 photos

Pretty Boy's initial post on the 2023 Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Collection sparked significant interest, particularly regarding the automotive-inspired pieces. His early insights into the collection's themes and presentation at the Geneva Salons provided the community with a valuable preview. This article synthesizes the subsequent discussion, offering deeper context and expert commentary on these exceptional timepieces.

Looks like PP‘s 2023 rare handcrafts collection will feature a couple of automotive-inspired pieces. The one pictured is stunning (looks like cloisonné enamel and miniature painting). The whole collection will be presented at PP’s Geneva Salons from 1 through 15 April 2023. More information on PP’s website. Best, V.

This message has been edited by FabR on 2023-03-20 23:20:13

About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 175thcollection

The Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Collection, launched in 2014, comprises a series of highly complex and limited-edition timepieces created to commemorate the manufacture's significant milestone. This collection showcases Patek Philippe's mastery across various horological disciplines, featuring a diverse array of complications and artistic crafts. Each model within the collection represents a distinct facet of the brand's heritage and technical prowess, designed for discerning collectors.

The collection includes models with a variety of precious metal cases, such as rose gold, white gold, and platinum, with dimensions and thicknesses varying significantly depending on the specific reference. Movements are exclusively mechanical, encompassing both manual-winding and automatic calibers, many of which are newly developed or highly modified for these special editions. Sapphire crystals are universally employed, and water resistance ratings vary by model, reflecting their specific design and intended function.

This anniversary collection appeals to collectors seeking exceptional examples of contemporary haute horlogerie and significant pieces within Patek Philippe's modern history. The limited production numbers and the complexity of the movements ensure their continued relevance in the secondary market. The collection includes a wide spectrum of complications, from world timers and chronographs to grand complications, offering a varied selection for different collecting interests.

Specifications

Caliber: Multiple calibers depending on specific model within the collection

Case: Precious metal

Diameter: Varies depending on specific model within the collection

Dial: Varies depending on specific model within the collection

Water Resist.: Varies depending on specific model within the collection

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The hobnail bezel, a signature Patek Philippe design element, has a rich history dating back to 1934 with the Ref. 96 D, nearly ninety years prior to this collection. It gained legendary status with the introduction of Ref. 3919 in 1985 and has since adorned multiple Calatrava models.
For collectors interested in acquiring a Rare Handcrafts piece, it is crucial to express interest immediately upon the official announcement, ideally during the Watches and Wonders event. Contacting an Authorized Dealer soon after the event is essential to submit an application.
Caliber 240, created in 1977, is one of Patek Philippe's most iconic movements, powering as many as 25 current references. It is the 'soul' of many modern Rare Handcraft models, including references like 5075, 5077, 5086, 5089, 5177, 5189, 5738, and the Worldtimer complications 5131 and 5231.
The complete reference for a Rare Handcrafts model like the 'teaser' 5189G-001 indicates 'G' for grey gold and '001' uniquely identifies that specific enamel dial. Other dials for the same model would be listed as 5189G-xyz, with the three digits often chosen randomly by Patek, and the year not being a factor in the reference number.
A collector inquired whether Patek Philippe produces only one Calatrava-style reference (excluding ladies' watches) for the Rare Handcrafts collection each year, or if there are multiple round Calatrava-style Rare Handcrafts references beyond the Ellipse.

The Discussion

AuHavrePro

Mar 20, 2023

the full kit and caboodle on us promptly ........

patrick_y

Mar 20, 2023

I like cars. I like watches. I like enamel dials too. I'm not sure I like the hands on this watch, but the strap is clever. The hands overdo it for me though.

Pretty Boy

Mar 20, 2023

The photo isn’t good quality as is often the case on PP’s website.

Dchang81

Mar 20, 2023

interested to see the others

Francoamerican

Mar 20, 2023

Clous de Paris. seems to be a large part of the current Calatrava design language.

Pretty Boy

Mar 20, 2023

Those pieces bear the reference number 5177G, the flat bezel models 5089G.

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Patek Philippe 2023 Rare Handcrafts Collection

About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 175thcollection

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

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