Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 'Amagnetic' First Series: A Collector's Guide
Vintage

Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 'Amagnetic' First Series: A Collector's Guide

By CL · May 15, 2020 · 35 replies
CL
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
35 replies14382 views6 photos
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CL's deep dive into the Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 'Amagnetic' First Series offers invaluable insights for collectors navigating the nuances of vintage Patek Philippe. His meticulous breakdown of distinguishing features, from movement calibers to dial signatures, underscores the critical importance of detailed research in a market often plagued by misinformation. This article serves as a crucial reference for understanding the subtle yet significant variations that define early examples of this sought-after model.

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I have been constantly looking for a watch that I can wear it almost everyday in different occasions which also demonstrate my sensibility. I had tried Patek 570, 565 and 3417. In the end, though I truly love all 3, 3417 Amagenetic suits me a bit more. The bauhaus design on the lugs and the dial design draw me in and it still remains very subtle as a timepiece.

What I have here is a 3417 First Series. What is a First Series?

1) 3417 First series was from 1958 to end 1959. 

2) The movement is Cal 12-400.  From 1960 onwards the watch uses 24-400 AM till 1970.

3) First series case side has no thin groove line. It is continuous flushed.

4) Very importantly, First Series has engraved, raised enamel signature. The word Amagentic begins below  the word ‘GENEVE’, not from the side of ‘G’. Some 3417 ( 570 too) have enamel writing on top of the dial but they are not the same as engraved, raised enamel filled  signature.

5) It has big sub second dial.

6) The inner case has 7 digit case number engraved.

7) First series only have two kind of dials. Both have engraved, raised enamel filled signature but the earliest one has a missing 30th minute line. The one with missing 30th minute line is called Type 0-A dial while the other one with 30th minute line is called Type 0-B dial.

At current moment, I was told that only 6 First series 3417 with Type 0 dials are documented. Personally, my limited research had only found 5. So, it is extremely rare to have a 3417 with Type 0 dial, which is characterized by its engraved, raised enamel filled signature.

I got all these info from Wulf at Rare & Fine Vintage Watches and John from Onbehalf. Both are extremely honest, patient and knowledgeable vintage watch dealers. I find that there are so many misinformations out there with vintage pieces and there are many dealers that have no idea what’s going on or are simply lying. I am very glad to have known Wulf and John, who I know I can trust them completely with Vintage pieces. I have learnt so much from both gentlemen and also, it helps tremendously to have Julian (watch-guy) guide me along patiently. Thank you Julian smile. I would also like to thanks Nico for always mentioning that he likes 3417, which kind of capture my attention to it. Thank you Nico smile

How does 3417 wear on the wrist? I have a 6.5 inches wrist. 3417 is 35mm but it wears like a 37mm due to  the wide dial, small bezel and long lugs. It fits perfectly to my wrist. Compartively, it feels a bit bigger than Patek 565 and quite similar to 570.

Do I love this watch? I think it really suit me very well. 3417 can be a very poetic daily companion smile. Yes, I love 3417. 

Lastly, special thanks to Marco and Wulf for writing such insightful book focusing on Patek Amagenetic 3417 and 2570. It is a great read and I'm happy to know that the cover photo is my exact watch smile. Thank you !!!





















About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 565

The Patek Philippe Reference 565 is a historically significant model, recognized for its clean design and robust construction, which positioned it as a versatile timepiece within the brand's offerings during its production era. It represents a period of design evolution for Patek Philippe, moving towards more contemporary aesthetics while retaining traditional watchmaking principles. The reference is particularly noted for its varied dial configurations and case materials, appealing to a broad range of collectors. It often featured a two-piece case construction, contributing to its durability and distinct profile.

This reference typically houses a manual-winding movement, known for its reliability and precision. Early examples often featured movements such as the Caliber 12-120, a well-regarded mechanism of its time. The case, frequently crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, or rose gold, measured approximately 35mm in diameter, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The crystal was commonly acrylic, providing a warm aesthetic consistent with watches of its period.

The Reference 565 holds considerable appeal for collectors interested in Patek Philippe's mid-century output, particularly those seeking models that combine understated elegance with solid mechanical foundations. Its variations, including those with sector dials or retailer signatures, add to its collectibility. The reference serves as an important link in the brand's design lineage, bridging earlier styles with later developments, and is valued for its authenticity and historical context within the Patek Philippe catalog.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. 2892A2
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
May 15, 2020

I have its cousin... And still running after this Patek! Best, Nicolas

CL
CL
May 15, 2020

Mine is from 1959, yours earlier? Geophysic E168 is a more masculine piece than 3417. Very nice legendary piece from JLC and I believe it is also 35mm? I must try it one day on my wrist.

CL
CL
May 15, 2020

the journey is made a lot easier when there's fellow purists to consult with and trustworthy dealers like Wulf and John N. I figured I will just share the information on this post so for those future people who become interested in this model will have something factual to base on. This is the wonderful part of this site.

CL
CL
May 15, 2020

I like watches that are 38mm and below, so it is really interesting to seek out pieces from the past. After 17 years of dabbling with modern watches, this discovery into vintage pieces are exciting. It also make me realise how creative people in the past were.

WA
Watcholic_id
May 15, 2020

and thanks for sharing such a great article. your 2nd pic is absolutely stunning! cheers

CL
CL
May 15, 2020

in a very subtle package . I do think the 3D raised enamel signature helps a lot.

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