Vintage
Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, revisits the topic of antimagnetic watches, spotlighting what he considers the most beautiful example ever created: the Patek Philippe Ref. 3417. This article delves into the unique characteristics of this steel-cased, radium-dialed timepiece, famously owned by John Nagayama, and explores why it holds such a significant place in horological history.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3417 is notable for its antimagnetic properties, a feature less common in dress watches of its era. It represents a specific technical advancement within the Calatrava line, designed to protect the movement from magnetic fields, which could impair timekeeping accuracy. This focus on functional resilience distinguishes it from other Calatrava models primarily known for their aesthetic simplicity. The reference was produced in limited quantities, contributing to its specialized appeal.
This reference typically features a 33 mm case, often in stainless steel, though examples in yellow gold are also known. It houses the manual-winding caliber 23-300 PM, a movement specifically engineered with antimagnetic components. The PM designation indicates "Protection Magnétique." The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 25 meters. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 44 hours.
The 3417 appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's technical innovations and the brand's response to specific horological challenges. Its antimagnetic construction places it in a distinct category, offering a blend of classic Calatrava design with a practical, albeit subtle, complication. Variants exist with different dial configurations, including those with radium luminous material, further diversifying its collector interest.
Amazing that the radium didn't destroy the dial. And what style!! The whole package.
Really fabulous, as you say. Best, Emmanuel
For the most beautiful watch I have ever seen, full stop. Thanks for sharing.
I didn’t even know about this kind of radium dial for a 3417, only the classic plain steel hands and baton indexes. We have a common friend who loves this ref too 😉
…I “collected” watches and the gentleman on my left lifted the cuff of his jacket and flashed a PP steel Antimagnetic exactly like the one on the original post. I don’t remember what I was wearing but nothing nearly as cool as his watch. I’ll never forget it. By the way, I’ve never collected snuff boxes.
If I may, which most will consider heresy, I would shorten the hour indices (1,2,4,8,10,11) and reduce the subidial size.. And perhaps change the longish Arabic numeral fonts
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