Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the fascinating and often overlooked history of double-signed Patek Philippe dials. His meticulous research uncovers the little-known collaboration with Belgian retailer Louis Lörtscher, providing valuable context for collectors interested in rare and historically significant timepieces beyond the more commonly recognized partnerships. This exploration highlights how unique retailer signatures can reveal hidden chapters in horological history.
Yesterday, after finishing my post about the
partnership between
Patek Philippe and the
Grogan Company of Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania, I looked for
other examples of the ref.
1401 on display at the
Patek Philippe Museum, whose double-signed dial had piqued my interest.
It led me to
come across this
watch sold by Christie's in
2017, whose dial is signed "
LörTscher" at 6 o'clock, with an
unusual script:
- The L extends under the other letters.
- And the horizontal bar of the T extends above the R and the S.
Ref. 1401 manufactured in 1939 (movement no. 833'109, case no. 618'601) and signed Patek, Philippe & Co, Genève, retailed by Lörtscher
Credit: Christie’s
Intrigued by this name
unknown to me, I began digging and discovered
another very
little-known and documented
collaboration :
the one
Patek Philippe had with
Belgian watch retailer Louis Lörtscher.
As the following photos of a ref. 130 show, the Lörtscher boutique (“Horlogerie LörTscher”) was located in Brussels, Rue Montagne de la Cour, 81.
credit: Shellman
Here's a view of the rue Montagne de la Cour as seen from the Place Royale. Number 81 corresponds to the building on the left which forms the corner with the Place Royale.
credit: Bruxelles autrefois, Bruxelles disparu
Now, here are the other Patek Philippe timepieces I could find featuring such a double signed dial with “LörTscher ”.
REF. 96 (?) FROM 1939
The photo shows that the “Horlogerie LörTscher” was at some point taken over by the Ditesheim brothers (“DITESHEIM Frères, Succ.”), who, as far as I know, founded the Movado watch brand in 1881.
credit: @jojolamontre
REF. 491 IN 18KYG WITH Cal. 9-90 FROM THE 1930s
This beautiful
watch, sold by the Shellman Ginza Shop seems to have been
acquired by
@alpina_b10_allrad.
credit: shellman-ginzashop-blog.com
REF. 1471 IN ROSE GOLD
Case no. 659823, Movement no. 954659, 31mm champagne dial with gilt baton markers, Caliber 10-200 movement
Notice how the
horizontal bar of the
L forms a sort of
T with the
index 12 of the
small seconds.
credit: Case Auctions
REF. 2443 IN ROSE GOLD Movement no. 974232, case no. 512741 - 26 mm

credit: piguet.comREF. 2457 IN ROSE GOLD
32 mm, manufactured in 1950 and sold in 1951
credit: thewatchcollectors.com
REF 2483 IN YELLOW GOLD 33 mm, Calibre: cal. 12-120 manual winding, Movement number: 939'042, Case number: 674'810, made in 1952
credit: Sotheby’s
REF. 2510 IN YELLOW GOLD
37 mm, circa 1953 - Caliber 12-400
Here,
again, the
horizontal bar of the
L forms a sort of
T with the
index 12 of the
small seconds.

credit: @2tonevintageofficial
REF. 2525-1 IN YELLOW GOLD
movement No. 744062, case No. 688819, Cal. 10-200
credit: Antiquorum
N° 833198 / 618589 IN 18K GOLD 9-90 Caliber


credit: Artcurial
18K YELLOW GOLD PRE-REFERENCE 20 mm case
credit: Wannenes
COCKTAIL WATCH IN 18K GOLD Case: 14 x 24 mm
credit: timestudiowatches.co.uk
I know that this is a
very “
niche”
post, but I personally
love to
learn as much as I can about this
beloved brand (I mean Patek Philippe).
And, hopefully, some of you will share my interest.
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 130
The Patek Philippe Reference 130 is a significant chronograph model, notable for its classic design and the various configurations in which it was produced. While many examples feature a standard chronograph layout, specific iterations, such as those with split-seconds functionality, represent a higher echelon of horological complexity within the reference. The model is recognized for its balanced proportions and the legibility of its dial, making it a favored choice among collectors seeking vintage Patek Philippe chronographs.
This particular example of the Reference 130 is distinguished by its yellow gold case, measuring 33mm in diameter. It houses a manual-winding movement, typical for chronographs of its era, and is fitted with a crystal, likely acrylic or sapphire depending on the specific production period and any subsequent servicing. The case construction and movement finishing adhere to Patek Philippe's high standards for precision and durability.
Collector interest in the Reference 130 is driven by its historical importance as an early chronograph from the brand and the rarity of certain dial and complication variations. The presence of unique characteristics, such as Breguet numerals, specific dial signatures, or the absence of a tachymeter scale, can significantly influence its appeal. The reference appeals to those who appreciate the foundational designs of Patek Philippe's chronograph lineage.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 13'''
- Case
- Yellow gold
- Diameter
- 33mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 1471
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 1471 is a distinguished example of the brand's classic dress watch aesthetic from the mid-20th century. This reference embodies the understated elegance and precise craftsmanship characteristic of the Calatrava line, offering a refined profile that prioritizes legibility and wearability. It represents a period when Patek Philippe solidified its reputation for producing high-quality timepieces with enduring design principles, appealing to collectors who value historical significance and traditional watchmaking.
This particular reference typically features an 18k yellow gold case, measuring 31mm in diameter, a size consistent with gentlemen's dress watches of its era. The watch is powered by a manual-wind movement, reflecting the prevalent mechanical technology of the time. An acrylic crystal protects the dial, which is commonly found in a silver finish, providing a clear and uncluttered display. The fixed bezel contributes to its streamlined appearance, emphasizing the purity of its design.
For collectors, the reference 1471 holds appeal as a representative piece from a significant period in Patek Philippe's history. Variants with retailer-signed dials, such as those bearing the "LörTscher" signature, add a layer of historical intrigue and rarity, making them particularly sought after. These double-signed examples highlight the historical distribution networks and bespoke relationships between Patek Philippe and prominent jewelers, offering unique collecting opportunities within the broader Calatrava family.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 10'''
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 31mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2457
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 2457 is a time-only dress watch, representing a classic interpretation of the Calatrava design principles. This reference is characterized by its clean lines and understated elegance, adhering to the fundamental aesthetic that defines the Calatrava collection. It typically features a round case and a minimalist dial, emphasizing legibility and a refined presence on the wrist. The design prioritizes clarity and a balanced composition, making it a representative example of Patek Philippe's approach to traditional watchmaking during its production era.
This reference was commonly produced in precious metals, reflecting its positioning as a luxury dress watch. The case houses a manual-winding movement, a common choice for time-only watches of this period, allowing for a slimmer profile. The crystal would typically be acrylic, consistent with watchmaking practices of the mid-20th century. The movement is finished to Patek Philippe's high standards, ensuring reliability and accuracy.
Collectors often seek the reference 2457 for its purity of design and historical significance within the Calatrava lineage. Examples with well-preserved dials and cases are particularly valued. Variants may include different dial finishes or minor case details, but the core aesthetic remains consistent. The reference appeals to those who appreciate the foundational elements of Patek Philippe's dress watch tradition, offering a direct link to the brand's heritage of producing elegant and mechanically sound timepieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 10'''200
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 31mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2483
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 2483 represents a classic interpretation of the Calatrava design philosophy, characterized by its clean lines and understated elegance. Introduced during a period when Patek Philippe was solidifying its reputation for refined dress watches, the 2483 offered a slightly more robust case profile compared to some of its contemporaries, while maintaining the collection's core aesthetic principles of legibility and balanced proportions. It is a testament to the enduring appeal of simple, well-executed watchmaking.
This reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, often yellow gold, with a diameter that aligns with traditional dress watch sizing of its era. The watch is powered by a manual-wind movement, reflecting the prevalent watchmaking practices of the mid-20th century. The crystal is commonly acrylic, consistent with watches produced during this period, providing a warm distortion-free view of the dial.
For collectors, the reference 2483 is valued for its historical significance within the Calatrava lineage and its representation of Patek Philippe's mid-century design language. Examples with well-preserved dials and cases are particularly sought after. The presence of retailer signatures, such as the "LörTscher" example mentioned, adds a layer of unique provenance and interest for those specializing in watches with historical retail affiliations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 10-200
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 33mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2525-1
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 2525-1 is a notable example within the Calatrava series, distinguished by its specific case design and dial configurations. This reference is recognized for its understated elegance, characteristic of the Calatrava line, yet it possesses unique attributes that set it apart from other iterations. It represents a period in Patek Philippe's production when subtle variations in design were common, appealing to collectors who appreciate nuanced differences.
This particular reference typically features a case crafted from precious metals, housing a manual-wind movement. The case dimensions are in line with the dress watch aesthetic prevalent during its production era, offering a comfortable and refined presence on the wrist. The crystal protecting the dial is generally of a material consistent with watchmaking practices of the mid-20th century, ensuring clarity and durability.
For collectors, the reference 2525-1 holds interest due to its place in the Calatrava lineage and the potential for rare dial signatures, such as the "LörTscher" example mentioned. These double-signed dials, often indicating a retailer partnership, add a layer of historical context and rarity. The watch appeals to those seeking a classic Patek Philippe dress watch with a distinct character and a connection to historical retail collaborations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 10-200
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 33mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Plexiglass