Patek Philippe Portrait-Cut Diamond Watches

quattro · 2026-01-10T13:43:05Z

Explore two rare Patek Philippe watches, Ref. 3843/1G and 3928T-001, featuring portrait-cut diamond crystals. Discover their unique designs and history.

quattro

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

21 replies754 views36 photos

quattro's meticulous post unveils two exceptionally rare Patek Philippe timepieces, each featuring a portrait-cut diamond as a crystal. This deep dive into the Ref. 3843/1G and Ref. 3928T-001 offers a unique perspective on Patek Philippe's bespoke capabilities and the integration of high jewelry into horology, challenging conventional notions of watch design and material use. His detailed presentation provides an invaluable resource for collectors interested in the intersection of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie.

Here are two Patek Philippe timepieces which feature an absolute rarity: a portrait-cut diamond as front (ref. 3843/1G) or back see-through (3928T) crystal.

A/ Ref. 3843/1G

This unique, one-of-one reference 3843, with a bespoke 18ct white-gold bracelet and a custom sunburst blue dial, was commissioned in 1990 and delivered to the client four years later, on 18 January 1994.

The 13.43 carats portrait-cut diamond which serves as crystal was provided by the client and set in a specially designed, watertight case (31 mm diameter), paying homage to the legendary Gilbert Albert asymmetrical designs.

The watch was sold by Christie's in 2016 and 2023.

The sapphire-set crown.

The watch is powered by a 177-calibre manual-winding movement.

The stone’s impressive weight, 13.43 carats, is engraved on the inner side of the solid case back.

credit: @ohotrav (1), Christie’s, Hodinkee, Sjx & @remyjulia_watch_specialist (6 last photos)

Portrait-cut diamonds are usually featured in jewels, like this diamond-glaze locket containing a portrait of King George IV when Prince of Wales (1762-1830) which he commissioned and gifted to Maria Fitzherbert, née Smythe (1756-1837)

credit: Christie’s

B/ Ref. 3928T-001 aka "The Flawless Officer"

This officer-style reference features a 33 x 7 mm titanium case.

It was sold by Sotheby's in 2014.

The diamond-set case back features a 9.44 carat diamond, which, according to GIA Report No. 5161081481, is D color, Internally Flawless (hence the nickname "Flawless Officer") and Type IIA.

The watch is powered by hand wound caliber 177.

Caliber 177.

credit: Sotheby’s, Hodinkee & Haute Time

Two completely unique timepieces, not only because they exist in only one example, but also because crystals made of a portrait-cut diamond are an absolute rarity.

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

Key Points from the Discussion

The aesthetic appeal of these unique pieces, particularly the use of a portrait-cut diamond as a crystal, is a subject of debate among collectors, with some finding them more 'interesting' than 'appealing' or 'great'.
The Ref. 3843/1G is seen as an 'asymmetric Ellipse' due to its Gilbert Albert-inspired design, a detail that adds to its unique character and historical significance within Patek Philippe's lineage.
Despite their uniqueness, the horological merit of both watches is limited by their simple Caliber 177 manual-winding movements, suggesting their primary value lies in their rarity and gemological features rather than mechanical complexity.
The physical experience of viewing these watches in person is highlighted as crucial, as photos may not fully convey the impact or nuances of the diamond crystals and overall design.
The 'Flawless Officer' (Ref. 3928T-001) is noted for its substantial presence despite its smaller size, likely due to the density of the titanium case and the large diamond.

The Discussion

mjmccracken

Jan 10, 2026

The case of the ‘Officer,’ particularly the profile, is just wonderful.

quattro

Jan 10, 2026

Thanks for chiming in and have a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel

GLau

Jan 10, 2026

"unique" pieces in so many ways and thanks for this interesting post ! The 3843 to me is an incredible spin-off from Ellipse. An asysmetric Ellipse, how cool is that !? Would love to see (not bid for) this piece in the metal when it comes out for auction again ! The "flawless officer", despite its smaller size, is a HEAVY WEIGHT !

quattro

Jan 10, 2026

Asymmetric Ellipse is well said for the 3843. And the Flawless Officer is very appealing indeed. Best, Emmanuel

quattro

Jan 10, 2026

Not the kind of watches one often sees... Best, Emmanuel

patekova

Jan 10, 2026

along those lines, but I can’t. The best adjective I can come up with is “interesting”. Other than that I find nothing much appealing about them. I had the opportunity to see the titanium one close up at Sotheby’s. I barely remembered anything about it other than the jumbo diamond on the case back. Quite forgettable to me. Extravagant yes, but not necessarily in a positive tasteful way. Anyway, these are my totally subjective and personal opinions. Perhaps they are “great watches”, whatever that

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Patek Philippe Portrait-Cut Diamond Watches

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