Patek Philippe Portrait-Cut Diamond Watches
Vintage

Patek Philippe Portrait-Cut Diamond Watches

By quattro · Jan 10, 2026 · 21 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
21 replies754 views36 photos
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quattro's meticulous post unveils two exceptionally rare Patek Philippe timepieces, each featuring a portrait-cut diamond as a crystal. This deep dive into the Ref. 3843/1G and Ref. 3928T-001 offers a unique perspective on Patek Philippe's bespoke capabilities and the integration of high jewelry into horology, challenging conventional notions of watch design and material use. His detailed presentation provides an invaluable resource for collectors interested in the intersection of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie.

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Here are two Patek Philippe timepieces which feature an absolute rarity: a portrait-cut diamond as front (ref. 3843/1G) or back see-through (3928T) crystal.

A/ Ref. 3843/1G

This unique, one-of-one reference 3843, with a bespoke 18ct white-gold bracelet and a custom sunburst blue dial, was commissioned in 1990 and delivered to the client four years later, on 18 January 1994.

The 13.43 carats portrait-cut diamond which serves as crystal was provided by the client and set in a specially designed, watertight case (31 mm diameter), paying homage to the legendary Gilbert Albert asymmetrical designs.

The watch was sold by Christie's in 2016 and 2023.







The sapphire-set crown.





The watch is powered by a 177-calibre manual-winding movement.



The stone’s impressive weight, 13.43 carats, is engraved on the inner side of the solid case back.


































credit: @ohotrav (1), Christie’s, Hodinkee, Sjx & @remyjulia_watch_specialist (6 last photos)

Portrait-cut diamonds are usually featured in jewels, like this diamond-glaze locket containing a portrait of King George IV when Prince of Wales (1762-1830) which he commissioned and gifted to Maria Fitzherbert, née Smythe (1756-1837)







credit: Christie’s


B/ Ref. 3928T-001 aka "The Flawless Officer"

This officer-style reference features a 33 x 7 mm titanium case.

It was sold by Sotheby's in 2014.



The diamond-set case back features a 9.44 carat diamond, which, according to GIA Report No. 5161081481, is D color, Internally Flawless (hence the nickname "Flawless Officer") and Type IIA.



The watch is powered by hand wound caliber 177.















Caliber 177.


credit: Sotheby’s, Hodinkee & Haute Time


Two completely unique timepieces, not only because they exist in only one example, but also because crystals made of a portrait-cut diamond are an absolute rarity.

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738R

The Golden Ellipse represents one of Patek Philippe's most distinctive design codes, first introduced in 1968 as a bold departure from traditional round case architecture. This particular example showcases the brand's mastery of the golden ratio mathematical principle, where the case proportions follow the classical 1:1.6180 ratio that has defined aesthetic harmony since antiquity. The collection emerged during Patek Philippe's modernist period, establishing itself as a sophisticated alternative to the prevailing sports watch trends of the era.

The technical execution reveals Patek Philippe's commitment to geometric precision, with the elliptical case requiring specialized manufacturing techniques to maintain water resistance and structural integrity. The deep blue dial creates a dramatic canvas for the applied hour markers and leaf-shaped hands, while the integrated bracelet design demonstrates the maison's ability to seamlessly marry case and strap elements. The automatic movement within provides the reliability expected from Geneva's premier manufacture, housed within a case that challenges conventional horological proportions.

Within the contemporary market, the Golden Ellipse occupies a unique position as Patek Philippe's most avant-garde regular production piece. Collectors appreciate the model's intellectual approach to design, though it remains less commercially dominant than the Nautilus or Calatrava lines. The reference commands respect among connoisseurs who value geometric purity over conventional luxury signals, making it a discerning choice for those seeking understated sophistication from the Stern family's manufacture.

Specifications

Case
rose gold
Diameter
34.5mm
Dial
blue

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MJ
mjmccracken
Jan 10, 2026
All the amazing gem work aside…

The case of the ‘Officer,’ particularly the profile, is just wonderful.

QU
quattro
Jan 10, 2026
I agree, yes, beautiful Officer-style case!

Best, Emmanuel

1W
1WatchMan
Jan 10, 2026
Interesting pieces that I had never seen before

Thanks for sharing!

QU
quattro
Jan 10, 2026
I'm glad if I brought something new!

Thanks for chiming in and have a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel

1W
1WatchMan
Jan 10, 2026
Thanks Emmanuel and have a lovely weekend too!

AM
amanico
Jan 10, 2026
Aaah, now we have the Triangulus!

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