Patek Philippe Vintage "Exploding" Numerals Guide

quattro · 2025-05-17T09:59:36Z

Explore Patek Philippe's 'exploding numerals' on the vintage Ref. 11 and rare 'Chronometro Gondolo' watches. Discover Art Deco dials and collector insights.

quattro

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

14 replies2340 views16 photos

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the captivating world of Patek Philippe's 'exploding numerals' dials. His post highlights the Art Deco influence on early 20th-century Patek Philippe references, particularly the Ref. 11, and draws a compelling comparison to the ultra-rare 'Chronometro Gondolo' pieces. This exploration offers invaluable context for collectors interested in the historical evolution of dial aesthetics and Patek Philippe's unique collaborations.

KMII's Franck Muller Crazy Hours posted this morning inspired me to show this Patek Philippe example of the ref. 11, a reference introduced in 1917 and characterised by its rectangular case and dial with Art Deco “exploding” numerals.

This particular example was manufactured in 1919 and first sold on July 21st, 1922. More recently, it appeared as lot 50 at Bonhams (in 2022) and as lot 381 at Sotheby's (2024).

Of course, the most prestigious watches with “exploding numerals” made by Patek Philippe are the 7 or 8 examples (according to the different sources) made in 1913 and sold to the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau. These watches have a dial signed “Chronometro Gondolo” and solid gold movements. I have included some examples below.

Best, Emmanuel

A/ Ref. 11 - Movement n° 192463 & case n° 287539 in yellow gold (case: 24 x 34 mm)

B/ Chronometro Gondolos from 1913

1/ Property of John Goldberger

credit: hodinkee

2/ Movement n° 180'720 & case n° 289'513 (lot 57 at Phillips in 2019)

credit: phillips

3/ Examples of the Patek Philippe Museum (the first one, on the left in the photo below, is referenced by Patek Philippe as Inv P-1005)

credit: hodinkee

Key Points from the Discussion

The originality of vintage dials, especially those with 'exploding numerals,' is a significant concern for collectors, as many have been refinished over time. Despite this, these watches are highly sought after for their often 'modern' case sizes.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 11 example showcased by the author is considered to be in excellent condition, though pieces like John Goldberger's or those in the Patek Philippe Museum represent the pinnacle for collectors.
The 'exploding numerals' aesthetic was not exclusive to Patek Philippe; other prestigious brands like Vacheron Constantin also incorporated this romantic dial design into their watches.

The Discussion

dedestexhes

May 17, 2025

However, it is so difficult to be sure that all is 100% correct. Especially the dial as a lot of them are refinished. Fascinating watches though as the often have a “modern” size. Thx for sharing, Dirk

KMII

May 17, 2025

Many brands used to feature these, including VC and as shown here PP. They do add a bit of romance for sure 👌🏻

quattro

May 17, 2025

I don't know what you think of the example I chose to display, but I would say that it isn't bad at all. Of course, the example owned by J. Goldberger or the ones of the PP Museum would be absolute grails. Have a nice weekend. Best, Emmanuel

quattro

May 17, 2025

Romance and playfulness, a playfulness Franck Muller brought to another level.

quattro

May 17, 2025

Have a nice weekend, Salman. Best, Emmanuel

AuHavrePro

May 17, 2025

It simply works extremely well. 🙂👍

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Patek Philippe Vintage "Exploding" Numerals Guide

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