Patek Philippe Vintage Hour Glass Watches

quattro · 2025-12-23T08:46:10Z

Explore the Patek Philippe Ref. 1593 'Hour Glass' with quattro's review and collector insights. Discover its unique case, crystal variations, and fit on the wrist.

quattro

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

53 replies1545 views20 photos

Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, delves into the distinctive Patek Philippe Ref. 1593, affectionately nicknamed the “Hour Glass.” His detailed exploration highlights the watch's unique case architecture and crystal variations, prompting a crucial discussion on how vintage timepieces truly wear on the wrist. This article synthesizes community insights, offering a comprehensive look at a revered Patek Philippe reference.

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The Patek Philippe ref. 1593 was introduced in 1944.

It was nicknamed the “Hour Glass” because the sides of the case feature a gentle curvature that taper inwardly to the centre from both ends - resembling the lines of an hour glass.

The side of the case is shaped like a curved arc, but some cases feature a discreet peak at the highest point.

Also, some examples feature a crystal which is faceted at the narrowest part of the case, but others feature a curved crystal.

Anyway, last July, I was able to try on a yellow gold example with faceted crystal.

A/ YELLOW GOLD WITH FACETED CRYSTAL

Somehow, I didn't completely like the fit on my wrist, especially from the angle of the photo below.

The lug-to-lug might be a little too long for my wrist.

But then, I recently saw these photos taken by Discreet Peacock of a yellow gold example with a curved crystal and I think that on a bigger guy than me, it looks wonderful !

B/ YELLOW GOLD WITH CURVED CRYSTAL

Note the peak, here, at the centre of the case arc.

credit: Discreet Peacock

And I also find the platinum variant with diamond indexes very appealing when worn on a larger wrist than mine !

C/ PLATINUM WITH DIAMOND INDEXES

credit: Bonhamswatches

What do you think?

Do you like the "Hour Glass"?

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 1593

The Patek Philippe reference 1593, introduced in 1944, is notable for its distinctive "Hour Glass" case shape. This design features a gentle curvature along the sides that tapers inwardly towards the center, creating a silhouette reminiscent of an hourglass. This unique case profile sets it apart from more conventional rectangular or tonneau-shaped watches of its era, making it a recognizable piece within Patek Philippe's historical catalog.

The watch is housed in a yellow gold case, measuring 23x37 mm. It is powered by the manual-winding caliber 9''', a movement known for its reliability and precision. The crystal is typically acrylic, with some examples featuring a faceted crystal at the narrowest part of the case, while others have a curved crystal. The fixed bezel frames a silver dial.

For collectors, the reference 1593 represents a distinctive design chapter in Patek Philippe's mid-20th century production. Its unusual case shape and the variations in crystal and case side profiles offer points of interest for enthusiasts. The reference appeals to those seeking a Patek Philippe with a strong aesthetic identity and a departure from standard case forms.

Specifications

Caliber: 9'''

Case: Yellow Gold

Diameter: 23x37

Dial: Silver

Crystal: Acrylic

Key Points from the Discussion

There is an ongoing debate among collectors regarding the originality of the crystal types on the Ref. 1593. Some believe all original crystals were faceted, with rounded crystals being service replacements, though definitive proof remains elusive.
The Ref. 1593 was produced in a rare platinum variant with diamond indices and no sub-seconds, reportedly made in a very small batch for specific Italian or English collectors.
Trying on a watch, especially one with a unique case shape like the 'Hour Glass,' is essential before purchase, as fit can vary significantly despite design features like downturned lugs or convex casebacks.
According to Aircooltime's research, it is likely that both faceted and curved crystals were original to the Patek Philippe Ref. 1593, suggesting a period of variation in production.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 1593 is often compared to other rectangular Patek Philippe references, specifically the Ref. 2442 'Banana' and the less frequently mentioned Ref. 2468, which is a slightly smaller version of the 1593.
The Ref. 2442 'Banana' was once highly sought after, with auction prices reaching significant figures, reflecting a past trend where rectangular watches were more popular than they are today.

The Discussion

AuHavrePro

Dec 23, 2025

but the platinum is really attractive to me in this instance!

GLau

Dec 23, 2025

To me, this watch must be seen in the metal before judgement can be passed ! Too unusual to decide based only on photos.

jlux

Dec 23, 2025

I certainly have a soft spot for non-round watches 😏

Robert65

Dec 23, 2025

Agree that the platinum is an unexpected winner! Break out the tuxedo and hit the formal parties... and WIN! Best, Robert

bruckner4

Dec 23, 2025

The platinum piece here is something else...

mblum3

Dec 23, 2025

For whatever reason, I don't like diamond dials, with very few exceptions. I love the yellow gold. Even more than the 2442. Big banana I think is the nickname. Beautifully balanced. Not that the 2442 isn't impressive, of course it is. Great post!

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About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 1593

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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