New Release
Miranda's Watches & Wonders review offers a crucial first look at Patek Philippe's 2023 novelties, capturing the immediate impressions of new references like the 5224R-001, 5968R, 5261R, and 5924G. Her detailed observations, accompanied by live photography, provide an invaluable resource for collectors seeking initial insights beyond official press releases. This article synthesizes Miranda's expert analysis with community discussion, highlighting key design choices and their implications for the Patek Philippe catalog.
Patek Philippe ref 5224R-001 24 Hour Display Travel Time
Joining the Calatrava line up is the new 24 hours display travel time, with dual time zone function. The dial is a stunning blue PVD with a circular striated centre. Interesting is that traditionally the 24 hours is at the 12 position, in this case this has been reversed and the 12 midday is actually where the traditional placing is as for a normal 12-hour display. What this does allow a mirroring of sunrise at 6am side of the dial and sunset at 18.00 hrs! this was quite intentional in the design. To achieve a clean aesthetic the design team decided not to have the traditional travel time pushers and focused utilising this function through the crown. So, from the crown you can adjust the time in either direction. The home time is represented with the skeleton hand. The movement has a 4Hz frequency so to achieve maximum efficacy and power reserve the rotor is in platinum. The design is inspired from a Chronometro Gondolo pocket watch in the museum.
Patek Philippe 5968R
A delicious combination of Patek’s 5N rose gold and a chocolate brown dial now joins the 5968 family. For me this the best combination so far. The dial has black to brown graduation, the black periphery highlighting the minute markings more competently.
Patek Philippe 5261R Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
The new 5261 Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar is in the ladies Luce collection- but is actually considered to be a “hybrid” watch – with an intended unisex appeal. All ladies rose gold watched are made in 4N rose gold- which has a more yellow hue- almost like a 24kt gold, whereas men’s watches are always 5N. Also, in the ladies Aquanaut collection, the dial is embossed in the “grenade” style we saw with the first series and men’s have the subtler world time zones graphic. In this unique model we have the 4N rose gold, but with dial style of the men’s collection. So, its cross matched across the collections.
The moon phase is displayed at 12 position to give the piece a more modern feel and look. The blue-grey dial is matched with a blue-grey tropical strap. The diameter is very much befitting a unisex model at 39.9mm.
Patek Philippe 5924G Chronograph Travel Time
The Pilot chronographs certainly didn’t disappoint. Of the new collections, the press detail doesn’t actually capture the aesthetic of this new complication. The bold 42mm case has a height of 13.05mm, which is superb considering the complexity. The traditional way to correct for home time was by way of pump pushers. In this model having four pump pushers would have been to overwhelming, so the correction is by correctors in the case. The khaki dial is stunning, the blue grey is also very tempting. A very typical modern Patek Philippe, vintage inspirations but in modern package. I see this being a very popular reference amongst modern day collectors.
Patek Philippe 5905R self-winding flyback chronograph with Annual Calendar
Relaunched in 5N rose gold, but now with an absolutely stunning blue sunburst dial. Its another piece where you don’t get the full impact from press pictures as in reality that dial explodes with vibrancy. Its an awesome combination with the rich Rose case.
Patek Philippe 4962/200R – GONDOLO
For those who understand the vintage references, will know why I love this case design. Its an eclectic mix of the 1592-hour glass at the top of the case and the 2442 Marilyn Monroe at the bottom. How I love these cassa di forma cases. I wish that Patek will make a modern 2442 in platinum. Look at the Crash watch from Cartier. I believe true collectors would love them.
Patek Philippe 4997/200R – CALATRAVA
Finally, this stunning ladies’ collection Calatrava. Fifty layers of lacquer are required to get this intense purple lustre and deep purple effect. It’s a truly beautiful Calatrava.
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
looks really great ! How does it wear on the wrist ?
Let me also take this opportunity, on behalf of the Patek forum, to remind our members who will attend the Rare Handcraft Exhibit in Geneva (beginning is *tomorrow, April 1st*!), to please also share live pics of those incredible marvels! Of course, pictures of all new models, including the Rare Handcrafts, have already been circulating online for a few days following the announcement -- but as your moderator, I *very much* look forward to seeing them here as well! Cheers, FabR
...but for the between hours or 'odd' hours, the markers would work better if they were slightly shorter and centered. They compete with the numbers and everything just blends in together...
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