Baron - Mr Red continues his series on identifying future classic Rolex watches from the 1990-2018 era, focusing this installment on the Rolex Submariner 14060M. He delves into the nuances of its production, particularly highlighting the rare 'Long F' dial variation. This article offers collectors a detailed guide to understanding the subtle distinctions that can elevate a modern reference to a highly sought-after classic.
This is Part 5 of a series of articles aimed at identifying future classics from the 1990-2018 modern era. This month will focus on one of the "old school" modern Submariners - the 14060M
Every now and then Rolex produce a truly cool watch. Usually it is one that has strong overtures from its history. Usually it is a GMT or a Submariner as those represent what collectors perceive as the heart of Rolex. When Rolex produce such a watch, it usually has a very long production run and is very popular. Take the Submariner 5512 and 5513. The 5512 was introduced in 1958 and was produced until 1978. The 5513 saw a production run from 1962 through to 1989. Even for Rolex, this represents a long production run. Yet, these two references represent what, to many, is the very essence of the Submariner icon. Despite the long production run, various quirks and anomalies on the dial of these two references have seen some variations become extraordinarily rare and sought after. Auction prices have gone through the roof for some of these variations.
The Submariner 14060 was the successor to the 5512/5513 and many people describe it as “the last of the best” as the reference retained the sleek crown guards and narrow lugs of its vintage predecessors. It has that vintage feel to it but at the same time is a thoroughly modern watch. The 14060 Submariner was introduced in 1990 until 2002 and the 14060M from 2002 until 2012. Inside the 14060M beats the calibre 3130, featuring a full balance bridge (upgrading from the previous balance cock), a Breguet overcoil on the hairspring as well as a larger balance wheel.
The no-date dial gives a very strong symmetry to the watch, combined with a vintage feel and a totally modern robust movement to make it a very desirable watch indeed. With drilled hole lugs (the last Submariner to have them), the watch is easily transformed with a leather strap or Nato, though I have to say I think it works well with the original bracelet. The 14060M has a feel to it that very few modern Subs have. I would say it is a perfect example of the transition between vintage and modern.
Now, 2002-2012 represents a long period of production for the 14060M, but this production run saw a number of evolutions. The most important of these concerns the Chronometer certification that took place in 2007. Prior to this, the dial was a simple two-liner without the chronometer certification. From 2007 onwards, however, the dial carried the chronometer certification and was differentiated by a 4-liner text on the dial. Now, that makes the 4-liner produced for just 5 years and much rarer for Rolex. Most production runs exceed that. But 5 years still allows for a lot of production given how popular Rolex Submariners are.
The next evolution, however, is not something that is well-known. If one looks at the 2-liner dial (ie before certification), one can see a certain type of script being used. In particular, the F used in 1000 ft has a particularly long tail to it. It is a Long F.
Now, if we take an example of a 4-liner dial from later in production, one can see that a different type of script has been used by Rolex for the post-chronometer period. It is a short F.
However, during the year of transition from 2-liner to 4-liner (2007/8), and only during that first year of production of the 4-liner, some of the Long F script dials were used on the 4-liners. When I say some, I mean a very small number. It is not unique, as I have seen maybe 5 or 6 examples. But there is a rare dial anomaly that can be seen on the very first 14060M 4-liner dials. 4-liner with a Long F.
To be honest, I love the Long F. The short F is fine, but that Long F is very good. It is a Long Good F. It is also a crucial differentiator that sets it apart from other 14060M. I also love the 14060M. It is such a pure Submariner that carries strong vintage DNA.
A brief look at Chrono24 will show about 300 Submariner 14060 for sale globally. Around half of these are 2-liner (pre-2008) watches and the other half are 4-liner (post-2007) chronometer watches. Within the 4-liner sample, I can see just one or two Long Good F examples. That makes it a very rare watch indeed. The “last of the best” it may be. But with this very rare dial configuration, it may be one of the rarest of the best. Possibly one of the rarest dial variations of a modern Submariner.
The Long Good F. It reminds me very much of the classic film “The Long Good Friday,” starring Bob Hoskins. One of the best "old school" British gangster movies of all time. I think nicknaming this watch The LGF or the “Bob Hoskins” seems fitting.
Previous posts on future classics
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1560/1570
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Bubble Back Ref. 3130
The Rolex Bubble Back reference 3130 is a notable example of the early self-winding Oyster Perpetual watches, distinguished by its prominently domed case back designed to accommodate the rotor of the automatic movement. This particular reference represents a significant step in Rolex's development of waterproof and self-winding timepieces, offering a robust and practical watch for its era. It is part of a series that established the foundational principles for many subsequent Rolex designs, emphasizing reliability and everyday utility.
This reference typically features a case crafted from stainless steel, though other precious metal variants were also produced. The distinctive "bubble back" profile allowed for the integration of the automatic caliber, which was a relatively new innovation at the time. While specific dimensions can vary slightly across production years, these models generally presented a modest case diameter, consistent with mid-20th century watch aesthetics. The crystal was commonly made of acrylic, contributing to the watch's water resistance.
For collectors, the reference 3130 holds appeal as an early and authentic representation of Rolex's pioneering work in automatic movements and waterproof cases. Its historical significance lies in its contribution to the evolution of the modern wristwatch, making it a foundational piece for those interested in the brand's technical advancements. Various dial configurations and hand styles can be found, adding to the collecting interest in these vintage pieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- NA
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 32mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 16760
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16760, often referred to as the "Fat Lady" or "Sophia Loren" by collectors due to its thicker case profile, represents a significant evolution in the GMT-Master line. It was the first GMT-Master II model, introducing an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, which allowed for the tracking of three time zones simultaneously when used in conjunction with the rotating bezel. This reference also marked the introduction of the sapphire crystal to the GMT-Master series, enhancing its durability and water resistance compared to earlier models. It was exclusively produced with a black and red bezel insert, known as the "Coke" bezel.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, housing the Caliber 3085 automatic movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and incorporates the quickset date function. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 100 meters. The robust construction of the Oyster case and bracelet ensures its suitability for daily wear.
As a transitional reference produced for a relatively short period, the 16760 holds a distinct place among Rolex collectors. Its unique case proportions and the distinction of being the inaugural GMT-Master II model contribute to its appeal. The limited bezel color option and the introduction of new technical features make it a notable piece for those interested in the development of Rolex's professional tool watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.3085
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex bart simpson Ref. 14060
The Rolex Submariner reference 14060 represents a transitional period for the brand's professional dive watch line. It is notable for being a no-date Submariner, maintaining a clean dial aesthetic favored by many collectors. This reference succeeded earlier no-date Submariners and preceded later iterations with updated movements and materials, positioning it as a bridge between vintage and modern Rolex production.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, characteristic of the Submariner line. It is equipped with the automatic caliber 3000 movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch utilizes a sapphire crystal, offering enhanced scratch resistance, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with an aluminum insert.
The 14060 appeals to collectors seeking a Submariner without the date complication and its associated cyclops lens. It is recognized for its robust construction and functional design. While sharing many characteristics with its date-equipped counterparts, the absence of a date window distinguishes it within the Submariner family and contributes to its distinct collector appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3000
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
