Marcus Hanke presents the Ulysse Nardin Classico, a modern successor to the iconic San Marco Chronometer. His article delves into the historical significance of the San Marco's unique enamel dial and explains how the Classico updates this classic design with a larger 40mm case and a more contemporary, sporty aesthetic, while retaining its distinctive charm.
A simple beauty:
Ulysse Nardin "Classico"
presented by Marcus Hanke
Among many other famous watches produced by Ulysse Nardin, there was one especially iconic design: a simple, straightforward watch, with an extremely unique feature. The "San Marco" Chronometer not only offered a COSC certified movement, which some fifteen years ago was still something rather rare, but it was recognized at very first sight. Already a short glimpse revealed a shimmering and gleaming dial, a combination of bright blue and a complicated pattern of lines, which seemed to be constantly changing at every movement and every variation in lighting.
"San Marco" Chronometer
"San Marco" Chronometer, stainless steel with bracelet
The "San Marco" had a wonderful dial made from many layers of enamel lacquer on a base of guilloched silver. With every lacquer, the impression of transparency was increased, until it got this mesmerizing shine it became so renown for.
Since the "San Marco" was a small watch, with a diameter of only 37mm (and a ladies' version of 27mm), it was clear that it would not survive for long a trend of gentlemen's wristwatches with virtually exploding diameters. When Panerai created a veritable confusion when launching its 44mm timepieces, today 48 or even 50mm are barely even worth any discussion.
It is thus not astonishing that it was decided to discontinue the production of the classic "San Marco" Chronometer already several years ago. However, many customers did not care for the small diameter, as long as they could get the stunningly blue dial, and continued asking for it. This saved the "San Marco" from being deleted from the portfolio for a long while.
Finally, I was delighted to see Ulysse Nardin presenting a successor at the Basel fair this year. Called the "Classico" now, the former "San Marco" has not only become larger. At 40mm diameter, the new case is also cleaner and appears a bit more sportive, as a result of its wider crown (makes it easier to grip it for adjustment and winding) and more massive lugs. Appropriately, the water tightness rating was increased from 30 to 50 meters, in spite of the displayback, that offers a good view on the winding rotor, made from 22ct gold. The hands have still the same basic shape, but have become a little bit wider, in order to accomodate more luminous mass. This greatly enhances the watch's legibility at night.
Another, certainly more substantial change, is that the new "Classico" is now available with 18ct gold cases only; the formerly popular stainless steel version remains to be hoped for in the future. However, the "Classico" is a highly elegant timepiece, and somehow I can imagine that only in gold.
While the pink gold variant comes with either silver or black dial, and is a rather toned down combination, the white gold case is coupled with the famous bright blue enamel dial on guilloche metal base. I am convinced this will be a real winner, and might even gain further attention in case Ulysse Nardin decides to offer a white gold bracelet for it.
"Classico" white gold; picture quality is compromised by protective sticker on the watch
The blue dial also quotes the predecessor in featuring Roman numerals at 12, 6 and 9, while the pink gold "Classico" has even more purist hour markers applied to the dial.
For the ladies, UN offers variants with diamond-studded depictions of animals, beautifully combined with enamel.
Technical Data.
Movement Caliber UN-815
Power reserve Approximately 42 h
Winding Self-winding
Functions Chronometer C.O.S.C. , hour, minute and seconds hand. Date at 3 o’clock.
Case 18 ct rose gold or 18 ct white gold
Diameter 40 mm
Water-resistance 50 m
Crystal Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Bracelet Alligator leather strap with 18 ct gold folding buckle
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2009-11-08 14:20:25 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2009-11-08 14:23:52 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-11-24 09:12:10 
