Steyr
154
From my limited knowledge and experience with both brass and german silver :
German silver is slightly more expensive from brass. About 10-15% more. Did't check myself but from a conversation with my boss couple of years ago.
German silver costs more in machining. The Nickel it contains requires to change tools more frequently. Some manufacturer simply refused to work with german silver. Now that lead is forbidden in brass, the difference is getting smaller and some third part makers are now accepting to proceed with german silver.
German silver is better on a mechanical point of view. More rigid, you can make slimmer design. Thread are more resistant. Less prone to scratchs...
Being harder, german silver allows better finishing. But takes longer and therefore $$.
Brass is more prone to oxydation and it does not react well giving spots and unpleasant shades. Therefore, you have to plate it. Rhodium is rather common, with intermediate layers. Plating is a polluting treatment, even if environmental laws are getting more and more restrictive. Another problem with plating is that if you scratch the finished part, the part is dead. With natural german silver, you could still redo the finishing.
As for the yellowish, german silver takes a yellow coloration over time from oxydation. That taint can be washed out very easily during maintenance (same with brass actually when not plated). It appears some german silver are more yellowish than others. I'd say Lange's alloy looks more yellow than the one I usually see. Don't have any explanation here. Could be more oxydized but don't think it is the only reason. The yellow color may also vary over decades. I guess the alloys composition changed. I remember from a jewelry exhibition where some old prototypes made out of german silver were displayed, the material was looking very ~white~. Same with fine old pocket watches.
So, to me there is no reason to go for brass except for lower costs.
Lange German Silver movements.
I read that Jaeger Lecoultre preferred to give up with German Silver for the Duometre movements, which are now made in brass, because it was not qualitative enough... Well... When I see that: I still wonder who will complain about german silver movements....
Actually softer and cheaper to produce but a headache to work with…
As for the looks, I’m sure those movements would look much better in brass with a high polish.😉
My point is I'm sure this is a cost cutting
Like not having deoloyants, etc. I could be wrong just cynical
Yes, it doesn’t need to plated, therefore easier to produce.
Way more cost efficient!
Yes, it seems like it.
As they say not everything that shines is gold…! Actually I asked a Lange watchmaker when at the Zeitwerk debut party, why German silver? He said that Glashütte was a poor town at the time and this alloy was available locally,therefore easier to procure s...
They call it “traditional German”, but plainly, we can call it cheap.
But the question really is why watch enthusiasts think that Lange is special? Because they do something different? Does that necessarily mean that is better? As it’s proven, the market is flooded with their watches to the point they needed to cut producti...
If you look at the Datograph ( 1st generation ), the Langematik Anniversary, the RL PLM, the RL Jumping Seconds, the 1815 moonphase Emil Lange, the Cabaret and the original L1 platinum black dial, you have an answer.
They are very well made, beautiful, charming and with a level of finishings which is superior to other brands.
Yes, they are unique in design and very well finished, also the movements are visually appealing, no doubt, but the material itself it’s inferior and that has been proven to me with every model I ever owned.
This are watches for the eyes but not for daily use. For reliability, accuracy, brass is the way to go, and has been proven over multiple centuries. As for me, I buy objects to use not just to look… But as always, to each his own.
Interesting I'm not sure if they picked this material for cost alone?
Maybe Germanic heritage or the aesthetic? Overall the cost of precious metal in a watch is very minimal. I think the color and finishing on the lange movement is beautiful. I may be biased since I have a lange ( I have a jlc, too - but not duometre), but ...
Brass is not expensive but if you add plating it comes up more expensive than the German silver.
If you prefer Lange sure, why not, but technically speaking(not finishing), brass is superior… Personally I think Lange is hyped beyond true value, as this modern watch world is in general I think Breguet runs circles around Lange at the same level or cat...
Mine is giving me no troubles 👍
I am not sure lange is hyped.. perhaps the honey gold variants or the handwunderkunst. Otherwise most trade below retail on secondary market so to me that argues against hype. I guess it's good richemont has both lange and ALS ...
I’m glad you enjoy it!
Your happiness is all that counts!!! We all have different standards and I guess mines are a bit high for today’s times…
Lack of perlage on the lower levels near the remontoir? Or abruptly halting bevel?
I don't see what else there is :0
On mine. But ...
I believe, given a strong enough microscope and enough time, similar things can be found on others as well! 😄
Lovely 😍
Thanks for sharing...certainly a very appealing alloy with which to make movements. I can't wait to see how mine develop patina over time...lol
Well
About Brass : One of the enticing characteristics of brass jewelry is its gold-like appearance. Depending on copper-zinc ratio, the color of brass may range from dark brown to silvery white. To achieve a gold-like shade, you must combine around 67% copper...
I'm not saying that...
I just note that JLC is abandoning the German Silver on the latest Duomètre and that at the same time ALS - which belongs to the same group - is still promoting this finish....
They're not even close to a contradiction.
Cf. their discourse on the duometer movement, which was perfect balance with few complications, and then, thanks to the Helvetic holy spirit... that's no longer the case, and you can add all kinds of stuff without affecting regularity....
I have had a good look in person at the older and current duometres
Not side by side, per se, but over many months and multiple visits to various Jlc boutiques across Hong Kong. I agree that the older duometre's german silver movements look better than the newer ones. The newer duometre case wears much better, however, in...
This is really weird marketing talk....
.... Given that both brands are under Richemont. German Silver over brass, any time, any day.
I own several Langes. Every time I look at the backside, I still remain in awe
I’m not sure brass offers any advantage. Oxidation is clearly a problem with brass as anyone knows. It would be interesting to hear from somebody who is familiar with metalurgy
From my limited knowledge and experience with both brass and german silver :
German silver is slightly more expensive from brass. About 10-15% more. Did't check myself but from a conversation with my boss couple of years ago. German silver costs more in machining. The Nickel it contains requires to change tools more frequently. So...