Jaeger-LeCoultre

                                                                          

                                                                                 Deep Sea Alarm, the finest vintage diving watch?

 

In the universe of vintage diving watches, there are some holy monsters. Some are cool, some are nice, some others are original, or technical, but few of them are what we can call fine. 

I am strongly convinced that the Deep Sea Alarm, Lecoultre ( US ) or Jaeger Lecoultre, are among the finest. 

We can always say, and with some reasons, by the way, that a watch which doesn't offer a turning bezel cannot be considered as a diving watch. 

This is a weakness of this model, even if we can say that the alarm replaces the turning bezel.We'll add that yes, this is a way to estimate / know the elapsed time, but in a less precise way than a turning bezel. 

The heir, the Polaris, is much better from this point of view, as it offers a graduated bezel and an alarm. 

So, back to the original question: Which is the finest vintage diving watch? Not the most technical and efficient, but the finest... 

Here, the Lecoultre Deep Sea Alarm, with a superb picture to be credited to Roberto:

 

And the much rarer european version.

 

I am unable to say which one I prefer, but I think the US version is cooler, while the european is the finest.

Same for the Polaris: I find the Polaris 1965 ( left ) finer, and the 1968 ( right ) cooler.

But its 2, 5 mm bigger case and huge plexy cannot compete with the natural elegance of the Deep Sea Alarm, in my opinion.

 

The Deep Sea Alarms are more sensual than the Polaris, too.

What about the contenders outside Jaeger Lecoultre? 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms have to be mentioned as serious contenders. 

Here the AM, which is one of the rarest version. 

The Fifty Fathoms, I mean the big cases ( 41 mm ) are very attractive, highly addictive and very charming watches. 

 

In terms of charm and coolness, they can compete with the Deep Sea Alarm. But in terms of elegance, I am less sure. 

Now, in my opinion, the most serious competitor is the Omega Seamaster 300, reference CK 2913. 

The case is the same than the Deep Sea Alarm, provided by Huguenin Frères. Same size, too. 

The very thin insert is also very elegant. The dial is close to the one installed in the Jaeger Lecoultre, I mean the european version.

The hands give its own personality to the Omega. 

 

Here, it is hard to say which one is the finest. I honestly cannot say.

A less famous player is the Breitling Superocean, first generation, reference 1004. 

The case is quite sharp and thin, very elegant, the dial is absolutely charming from my point of view. Some will love these indices and hour markers at 3 / 6 / 9 / 12, others will prefer the most classic ones from the Omega and Jaeger Lecoultre. A matter of taste.

I find the concave bezel beautiful, too. 

 

Now, I will rate the Jaeger Lecoultre and Omega slightly higher. 

The most famous diving watches are the Rolex Submariners. Which I find finer without crownguards. 

There are several references: 6200 / 6204 / 6205 / 6536 / 6538 / 5510, big or small crown. 

I would say that the small no crown guard Subs are the finest, while the big crowns are the coolest. 

Here a 5508 from my collection. Of course I would rate a 6204 / 6205 higher, due to the purer and nicer insert which has the magic red triangle at 12 o' clock.

 

I would also like to add the Tudor Submariners, and especially these 2 which sum quite well the differences between a big and a small crown Submariner. 

The 7922 is just beautiful, and top elegant.

 

While the 7924 is more bestial. 

 

But, here again, if I had to decide which one is the finer, I would also put the JLC and Omega above them. 

I would add a last guest in this list: The Longines Diver, Ref 7150: 

 

In terms of charm and coolness, we have a close rival of the Jaeger Lecoultre Polaris. 

In terms of elegance, I would rate it below the Deep Sea Alarm and Seamaster. And if I really had to answer to my question, I would slightly favor the Deep Sea Alarm.

Funnily, the Omega, Jaeger Lecoultre, Breitling, Tudor and Rolex 5508 belong to the same era, the late 50's, the golden era for vintage diving watches.

Now, I am curious to read your opinion and preferences on that matter. 

Best,

Nicolas

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