mkt33
[PuristS]
5252
A chance encounter with the Chopard XP Skeletec
The LUC Skeletec was, in retrospect, the most interesting watch I saw during my visit to the Madison Ave. Chopard Boutique.
I once owned an example of the LUC QF. However as much as I admired the movement and the QF certification, the watch was seldomly worn. Why? I couldn't fall in love with the aesthetics of the dial no matter how hard I tried.
The modified hands and conical indicies just didn't work for me. The lume, while outstanding, shouldn’t have been on what I considered to be a dress watch. Also the noticible rotor wobble and slight noise of the Cal. 9.96 were distracting for me.
Now four years later, the Skeletec has the right blend of traditional and contemporary looks for my tastes. Of course the most obvious detail is the partially skeletonized dial.
The bridges are skeletonized in a circular motif to reveal the underlying wheels of the gear train. This contemporary design element is coupled with classical details on the rest of the dial. The applied rose gold baton for hour markers, the dauphine hands, the lack of lume remind the owner that the LUC Skeletec is meant as a dress watch.
If you take a close look, you will find that the dial not only has a pleasant contrast of colors between rose gold and rhodium gray but it also displays several finishing techniques: From the horizontal geneva stripes on the skeleltonized bridges, to the radially brushed finish of the stacked barrels, to the perlage on the visible underside of the 22k microrotor and, and finially to the polished anglage on components of the keyless works.
Some have criticized Chopard for the apparent asymmetry of the 3 - 4 o'clock cutout to expose the keyless works, I for one think it is an interesting touch and keeps it looking like other partially skeletonized watches out on the marketplace.
The Caliber 96.17-S, I think is just an evolution of the Cal 9.6. The skeletonized bridges continue the same circular motif through the display back.On this particular sample, the rotor wobble and noise are thankfully gone.
The case and lugs are now one piece.Perhaps a bit of an easier construction technique compared to the previously laser welded lugs on the LUC QF.
Noticed the stepped lugs on the QF.
Now lugs are continuous with the case on the Skeletec.
But on the wrist, the models rocks. Definitely the LUC Skeletec is a contender for my next watch purchase.
Best, Mike
This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-04-15 09:04:54
A chance encounter with the Chopard XP Skeletec
LUC Chopard XP Skeletec has no wobble?
Hey, which model is that? and why has it been hidden from view? :-)
