Horological Meandering

Baselworld 2011: The big PuristSPro report -- Ulysse Nardin

 

 

It is not easy for me to write down the report on Ulysse Nardin’s novelties, since this year’s Basel fair was the last opportunity to see the charismatic company president Rolf Schnyder alive. Only a few days after the fair, Schnyder died unexpectedly.

Of course one of the most important questions is now, how his visions will continue to dominate Ulysse Nardin’s development plans. Schnyder’s dominating intention was to guarantee the company’s independence from the big groups, and to retain its uniqueness Consequently, he emphasised the important role of innovativeness, and the awareness of the niche: Ulysse Nardin concentrated on its main abilities, by strengthening and defending its role as technical pioneer.

Some fans of Ulysse Nardin showed signs of being disappointed, that no spectacular novelty was displayed this year. However, the company has developed a somewhat loose rhythm of biannual releases of major novelties, and the Freak “Diavolo” was shown last year. Additionally, the preparation of a large-scale series production of a new base movement, developed and equipped with state of the art-technology, was a huge step towards the company’s future as totally independent watch manufacturer.

Based on the specifications published so far, the new cal. UN-118 movement has the potential to be of exemplary effectiveness and accuracy, with at the same time long service intervals. As soon as I have completed my research, I will dedicate a specific article to this movement, which will therefore not be discussed in this Basel report.


An exciting and mighty, very unique watch deserves a matching name. In the original version it was Genghis Khan, now it is Alexander the Great, the Macedonian conqueror and founder of a world empire, who donates his name to the new version of Ulysse Nardin’s most expensive watch. The manual winding watch not only combines a minute repeater with Westminster chimes and automatons on the dial, but also a tourbillon, designed after the famous tourbillons that James Pellaton had made for Ulysse Nardin in the beginning of the 20th century. While for me, the “Khan” already was everything that was needed to define “the ultimate” watch, the current “Alexander” added even more fascinating details. As a consequence, I ask for your understanding that I consider it worth another special article, which will be published in the next weeks.


Actually, the “Freak Diavolo” was presented already last year, as the major novelty. However, some details were still imperfect, resulting in the watch being finally launched this year. The Diavolo’s uniqueness lies in the “stack” of a minute tourbillon, displaying the seconds, on the carousel of the base movement.


Normally, I am not a big fan of exciting watch designs being “upgraded” by the addition of gemstones. Very often, originality is thus sacrificed in favour of the stone’s sheer economic value.


However, the new version of the “Royal Blue Tourbillon” is setting itself apart from this group: the case is completely embellished with rectangular sapphires, so-called baguettes.


Even the folding clasp features this decoration, which is really unique.


The “Quadrato” series is available since a while. Now it gets a decent facelift, with a black ceramic bezel.


New variants are also offered in the “Marine Chronometer” series. First, there is a highly attractive new version of the Maxi Marine Chronometer in 41 mm, with a silver-coated dial and gold-coloured, embossed Arabian numerals. The hands are heat-blued, resulting in a very elegant timepiece.


The second new variant is a bicolor one. Bicolor, the combination of stainless steel and gold, has been subject of disdain since long; it was considered flashy, not purist enough. However, the last few years showed a tentative tendency towards bicolor again; one reason being the exploding price for gold. For me, this is a very good development, since I am finally able to out myself: “Yes! I like bicolor, I always liked it, and I think it is beautiful!!” This applies, too, to the 43 mm Maxi Marine Chronometer in steel, with pink gold bezel and crown, and a metallic brown dial. For me, it is gorgeous!


Those, who considered the large “Maxi Marine Diver Titanium” in 45 mm too colourful, with its orange design elements, will welcome the new, more “professional-looking” version, with black dial and a black diving bezel. The two red hands on small second and power reserve gauge are the only colourful elements.

All-black watches are highly fashionable now. Sometimes, this goes as far as black hands and markers as well, of course compromising the watch’s legibility. This is a problem the new Marine Diver “Black Sea” does not have: the big watch (45.5 mm diameter) has a completely black, rubber-coated steel case, but the hands and hour markers are equipped with bright red Super Luminova. At least at daylight, this permits magnificent legibility of the watch, at night, though, the colour pigments make the luminous mass a lot less efficient as the plain, light green C3 used in the original Marine Diver.


The rubber-coated surface offers a comfortable grip, especially the revolving bezel is very convenient to use. Of course, the durability of the coating may be subject of discussion, but other brands have a long experience with this kind of treatment, and, apparently, a good one.


The novelties within the sportive “Lady Diver”-series can be summed up briefly: colour, colour, colour.


The diamond-set version of the “Executive Dual Time” is destined for the extra-European market - or for ladies with an affinity to large watches (43 mm):


The “Maxi Dual Time” in 42 mm gets a new, silver-plated dial for the 18k pink gold case, which is a bit more classic than the grey dial hitherto offered.


Also, the “Lady Dual Time” shows more colour: mother-of-pearl-dials are offered in a variety of tones and combinations.


Very spectacular is this year’s model of the “Caprice” with animal motif: while last year, a tiger dominated the dial, now a Panda bear with its cub is depicted by 184 diamonds.


Personally, I liked the rectangular Caprice since it was shown for the first time. The new model “Queen of Hearts” presents with its romantic dial a more playful design.


Finally, it is here again: the plain automatic watch in steel, combined with a deep blue enamel dial, that is based on a silver guilloche pattern. Ulysse Nardin’s famous classic, back then part of the “San Marco” series, was a bestseller over many years, until its small diameter of 37 mm made it a victim of the fashion trend towards oversized watches. When Ulysse Nardin presented the new gents’ series “Classico” two years ago, which better matched this trend, with its diameter of 40 mm, it was clear that the iconic blue enamel dial had to return. However, it appeared in the white gold case only, which raised the watch’s price into considerable heights. But now, the Classico in blue enamel is here, in a steel case; and as a special gesture towards the ladies, also in a smaller size, so that couples can wear matching blue again.








This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-05-02 07:19:35 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-05-09 04:58:27