Comments:
It is not easy for me to write down the report on Ulysse Nardin’s novelties, since this year’s Basel fair was the last opportunity to see the charismatic company president Rolf Schnyder alive. Only a few days after the fair, Schnyder died unexpectedly.
Of course one of the most important questions is now, how his visions will continue to dominate Ulysse Nardin’s development plans. Schnyder’s dominating intention was to guarantee the company’s independence from the big groups, and to retain its uniqueness Consequently, he emphasised the important role of innovativeness, and the awareness of the niche: Ulysse Nardin concentrated on its main abilities, by strengthening and defending its role as technical pioneer.
Some fans of Ulysse Nardin showed signs of being disappointed, that no spectacular novelty was displayed this year. However, the company has developed a somewhat loose rhythm of biannual releases of major novelties, and the Freak “Diavolo” was shown last year. Additionally, the preparation of a large-scale series production of a new base movement, developed and equipped with state of the art-technology, was a huge step towards the company’s future as totally independent watch manufacturer.
Based on the specifications published so far, the new cal. UN-118 movement has the potential to be of exemplary effectiveness and accuracy, with at the same time long service intervals. As soon as I have completed my research, I will dedicate a specific article to this movement, which will therefore not be discussed in this Basel report.
An exciting and mighty, very unique watch deserves a matching name. In the original version it was Genghis Khan, now it is Alexander the Great, the Macedonian conqueror and founder of a world empire, who donates his name to the new version of Ulysse Nardin’s most expensive watch. The manual winding watch not only combines a minute repeater with Westminster chimes and automatons on the dial, but also a tourbillon, designed after the famous tourbillons that James Pellaton had made for Ulysse Nardin in the beginning of the 20th century. While for me, the “Khan” already was everything that was needed to define “the ultimate” watch, the current “Alexander” added even more fascinating details. As a consequence, I ask for your understanding that I consider it worth another special article, which will be published in the next weeks.
Actually, the “Freak Diavolo” was presented already last year, as the major novelty. However, some details were still imperfect, resulting in the watch being finally launched this year. The Diavolo’s uniqueness lies in the “stack” of a minute tourbillon, displaying the seconds, on the carousel of the base movement.
A (nearly complete) collection of Freaks, marking the pedigree:
(top row, from left) DIAmonSIL, Diamond Heart, 28,800, original Freak (1.0)
(bottom, from left) InnoVision, Blue Phantom, Diavolo
Normally, I am not a big fan of exciting watch designs being “upgraded” by the addition of gemstones. Very often, originality is thus sacrificed in favour of the stone’s sheer economic value.
"Royal Blue Diamond Set"
However, the new version of the “Royal Blue Tourbillon” is setting itself apart from this group: the case is completely embellished with rectangular sapphires, so-called baguettes.
Even the folding clasp features this decoration, which is really unique.
The “Quadrato” series is available since a while. Now it gets a decent facelift, with a black ceramic bezel.
New variants are also offered in the “Marine Chronometer” series. First, there is a highly attractive new version of the Maxi Marine Chronometer in 41 mm, with a silver-coated dial and gold-coloured, embossed Arabian numerals. The hands are heat-blued, resulting in a very elegant timepiece.
The second new variant is a bicolor one. Bicolor, the combination of stainless steel and gold, has been subject of disdain since long; it was considered flashy, not purist enough. However, the last few years showed a tentative tendency towards bicolor again; one reason being the exploding price for gold. For me, this is a very good development, since I am finally able to out myself: “Yes! I like bicolor, I always liked it, and I think it is beautiful!!” This applies, too, to the 43 mm Maxi Marine Chronometer in steel, with pink gold bezel and crown, and a metallic brown dial. For me, it is gorgeous!
Those, who considered the large “Maxi Marine Diver Titanium” in 45 mm too colourful, with its orange design elements, will welcome the new, more “professional-looking” version, with black dial and a black diving bezel. The two red hands on small second and power reserve gauge are the only colourful elements.
All-black watches are highly fashionable now. Sometimes, this goes as far as black hands and markers as well, of course compromising the watch’s legibility. This is a problem the new Marine Diver “Black Sea” does not have: the big watch (45.5 mm diameter) has a completely black, rubber-coated steel case, but the hands and hour markers are equipped with bright red Super Luminova. At least at daylight, this permits magnificent legibility of the watch, at night, though, the colour pigments make the luminous mass a lot less efficient as the plain, light green C3 used in the original Marine Diver.
The rubber-coated surface offers a comfortable grip, especially the revolving bezel is very convenient to use. Of course, the durability of the coating may be subject of discussion, but other brands have a long experience with this kind of treatment, and, apparently, a good one.
This Diver is limited to 100 pieces.
The novelties within the sportive “Lady Diver”-series can be summed up briefly: colour, colour, colour.
The diamond-set version of the “Executive Dual Time” is destined for the extra-European market - or for ladies with an affinity to large watches (43 mm):
The “Maxi Dual Time” in 42 mm gets a new, silver-plated dial for the 18k pink gold case, which is a bit more classic than the grey dial hitherto offered.
Also, the “Lady Dual Time” shows more colour: mother-of-pearl-dials are offered in a variety of tones and combinations.
Very spectacular is this year’s model of the “Caprice” with animal motif: while last year, a tiger dominated the dial, now a Panda bear with its cub is depicted by 184 diamonds.
Personally, I liked the rectangular Caprice since it was shown for the first time. The new model “Queen of Hearts” presents with its romantic dial a more playful design.
Finally, it is here again: the plain automatic watch in steel, combined with a deep blue enamel dial, that is based on a silver guilloche pattern. Ulysse Nardin’s famous classic, back then part of the “San Marco” series, was a bestseller over many years, until its small diameter of 37 mm made it a victim of the fashion trend towards oversized watches. When Ulysse Nardin presented the new gents’ series “Classico” two years ago, which better matched this trend, with its diameter of 40 mm, it was clear that the iconic blue enamel dial had to return. However, it appeared in the white gold case only, which raised the watch’s price into considerable heights. But now, the Classico in blue enamel is here, in a steel case; and as a special gesture towards the ladies, also in a smaller size, so that couples can wear matching blue again.
A nice new variant of the Classico in pink gold ...
... and a new Classico for ladies
Finally: Cufflinks in white gold, with blue enamel and diamonds
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-05-02 07:19:35 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-05-09 04:58:27
What a stunning lineup! In particular, I'm quite taken by the Freak Diavolo and the Marine Black Sea. Looking forward to seeing these two pieces in the metal.
Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the post, Marcus. It's great to see the gradual and measured progression of UN, just as Swiss horology should be. Everyone seems to be in such a rush over the last decade, but there's no hurry for companies that will eventually span hundreds of years.
I like the Quadrato in rose gold with the contrasting black ceramic bezel and the practical functions and clear time display.
The Classico with the blue enamel dial and stainless steel case containing a chronometer movement is a superb everyday watch with a touch of something special in the dial.
It's great to see the evolution (revolution?) of the Freaks culminating in the Diavolo. Great to see that UN continues to focus on the mechanics and not just the aesthetics of these watches.
I am not as convinced about bicolor watches as you, but the chocolate dial on the Marine Chronometer work well with the gold. I think my problem is that it reminds me too much of the 1980's. I had a bicolor Omega Seamaster that I wore continuously for 10 years. But it could be a future trend and there's little new in horology anyway.
Look forward to hearing more about the UN-118 and the advances inside.
Regards,
Andrew
Baselworld 2011: The big PuristSPro report -- Ulysse Nardin
Basel 2011 Novelty report
Ulysse Nardin
by Marcus Hanke
Ulysse Nardin
by Marcus Hanke
It is not easy for me to write down the report on Ulysse Nardin’s novelties, since this year’s Basel fair was the last opportunity to see the charismatic company president Rolf Schnyder alive. Only a few days after the fair, Schnyder died unexpectedly.
Of course one of the most important questions is now, how his visions will continue to dominate Ulysse Nardin’s development plans. Schnyder’s dominating intention was to guarantee the company’s independence from the big groups, and to retain its uniqueness Consequently, he emphasised the important role of innovativeness, and the awareness of the niche: Ulysse Nardin concentrated on its main abilities, by strengthening and defending its role as technical pioneer.
Some fans of Ulysse Nardin showed signs of being disappointed, that no spectacular novelty was displayed this year. However, the company has developed a somewhat loose rhythm of biannual releases of major novelties, and the Freak “Diavolo” was shown last year. Additionally, the preparation of a large-scale series production of a new base movement, developed and equipped with state of the art-technology, was a huge step towards the company’s future as totally independent watch manufacturer.
Based on the specifications published so far, the new cal. UN-118 movement has the potential to be of exemplary effectiveness and accuracy, with at the same time long service intervals. As soon as I have completed my research, I will dedicate a specific article to this movement, which will therefore not be discussed in this Basel report.
An exciting and mighty, very unique watch deserves a matching name. In the original version it was Genghis Khan, now it is Alexander the Great, the Macedonian conqueror and founder of a world empire, who donates his name to the new version of Ulysse Nardin’s most expensive watch. The manual winding watch not only combines a minute repeater with Westminster chimes and automatons on the dial, but also a tourbillon, designed after the famous tourbillons that James Pellaton had made for Ulysse Nardin in the beginning of the 20th century. While for me, the “Khan” already was everything that was needed to define “the ultimate” watch, the current “Alexander” added even more fascinating details. As a consequence, I ask for your understanding that I consider it worth another special article, which will be published in the next weeks.
Actually, the “Freak Diavolo” was presented already last year, as the major novelty. However, some details were still imperfect, resulting in the watch being finally launched this year. The Diavolo’s uniqueness lies in the “stack” of a minute tourbillon, displaying the seconds, on the carousel of the base movement.
A (nearly complete) collection of Freaks, marking the pedigree:
(top row, from left) DIAmonSIL, Diamond Heart, 28,800, original Freak (1.0)
(bottom, from left) InnoVision, Blue Phantom, Diavolo
Normally, I am not a big fan of exciting watch designs being “upgraded” by the addition of gemstones. Very often, originality is thus sacrificed in favour of the stone’s sheer economic value.
"Royal Blue Diamond Set"
However, the new version of the “Royal Blue Tourbillon” is setting itself apart from this group: the case is completely embellished with rectangular sapphires, so-called baguettes.
Even the folding clasp features this decoration, which is really unique.
The “Quadrato” series is available since a while. Now it gets a decent facelift, with a black ceramic bezel.
New variants are also offered in the “Marine Chronometer” series. First, there is a highly attractive new version of the Maxi Marine Chronometer in 41 mm, with a silver-coated dial and gold-coloured, embossed Arabian numerals. The hands are heat-blued, resulting in a very elegant timepiece.
The second new variant is a bicolor one. Bicolor, the combination of stainless steel and gold, has been subject of disdain since long; it was considered flashy, not purist enough. However, the last few years showed a tentative tendency towards bicolor again; one reason being the exploding price for gold. For me, this is a very good development, since I am finally able to out myself: “Yes! I like bicolor, I always liked it, and I think it is beautiful!!” This applies, too, to the 43 mm Maxi Marine Chronometer in steel, with pink gold bezel and crown, and a metallic brown dial. For me, it is gorgeous!
Those, who considered the large “Maxi Marine Diver Titanium” in 45 mm too colourful, with its orange design elements, will welcome the new, more “professional-looking” version, with black dial and a black diving bezel. The two red hands on small second and power reserve gauge are the only colourful elements.
All-black watches are highly fashionable now. Sometimes, this goes as far as black hands and markers as well, of course compromising the watch’s legibility. This is a problem the new Marine Diver “Black Sea” does not have: the big watch (45.5 mm diameter) has a completely black, rubber-coated steel case, but the hands and hour markers are equipped with bright red Super Luminova. At least at daylight, this permits magnificent legibility of the watch, at night, though, the colour pigments make the luminous mass a lot less efficient as the plain, light green C3 used in the original Marine Diver.
The rubber-coated surface offers a comfortable grip, especially the revolving bezel is very convenient to use. Of course, the durability of the coating may be subject of discussion, but other brands have a long experience with this kind of treatment, and, apparently, a good one.
This Diver is limited to 100 pieces.
The novelties within the sportive “Lady Diver”-series can be summed up briefly: colour, colour, colour.
The diamond-set version of the “Executive Dual Time” is destined for the extra-European market - or for ladies with an affinity to large watches (43 mm):
The “Maxi Dual Time” in 42 mm gets a new, silver-plated dial for the 18k pink gold case, which is a bit more classic than the grey dial hitherto offered.
Also, the “Lady Dual Time” shows more colour: mother-of-pearl-dials are offered in a variety of tones and combinations.
Very spectacular is this year’s model of the “Caprice” with animal motif: while last year, a tiger dominated the dial, now a Panda bear with its cub is depicted by 184 diamonds.
Personally, I liked the rectangular Caprice since it was shown for the first time. The new model “Queen of Hearts” presents with its romantic dial a more playful design.
Finally, it is here again: the plain automatic watch in steel, combined with a deep blue enamel dial, that is based on a silver guilloche pattern. Ulysse Nardin’s famous classic, back then part of the “San Marco” series, was a bestseller over many years, until its small diameter of 37 mm made it a victim of the fashion trend towards oversized watches. When Ulysse Nardin presented the new gents’ series “Classico” two years ago, which better matched this trend, with its diameter of 40 mm, it was clear that the iconic blue enamel dial had to return. However, it appeared in the white gold case only, which raised the watch’s price into considerable heights. But now, the Classico in blue enamel is here, in a steel case; and as a special gesture towards the ladies, also in a smaller size, so that couples can wear matching blue again.
A nice new variant of the Classico in pink gold ...
... and a new Classico for ladies
Finally: Cufflinks in white gold, with blue enamel and diamonds
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-05-02 07:19:35 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-05-09 04:58:27
Great report Marcus!
What a stunning lineup! In particular, I'm quite taken by the Freak Diavolo and the Marine Black Sea. Looking forward to seeing these two pieces in the metal.
Thanks for posting.
Beautiful report Marcus.
The royal blue Tourbillon is really impressive, I love this mix of gems with sapphire plates.
Fx
Fx
Some of the Ulysse Nardin I've missed before
Thanks Marcus for the report.
It brings back memorie of the Ulysse Nardin watches that I have won and lost before.......
The current Mrs MTF's first gold watch was a Ulysse Nardin and a year later I got the same model so we have a ""matching brace of UN.
The first watch I bought in Singapore was a Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual Ltd Edn. I did not know it then but this has proven to be the most useful travel watch as you can change the date across International Dateline with alacrity. No risk of killing the movement in either direction and the easiest perpetual calendar watch to adjust.
Now, the UN watches that I have missed before (and that Mrs MTF nags me about):
Freak 1.0 that the late Rolf Schnyder tried to sell me after the launch but I stupidly passed because it was "too big and freakish". Have you seen the sven bigger size of Freak 2.0?
Original Blue Sapphire Tourbillon spotted in Tokyo in 2004 but I did not commit because "something better may come along round the corner".
Original Skeletonised Round manual-wind watch (choice of YG or WG) in 2001 because "why pay more for less movement?
Platinum GMT +/- Perpetual Sonata-style hands that another PuristS from USA beat me to in a "credit card quick-draw" at the 1st IGOTT (International Gathering of the Tribes).
BTW, the 2nd IGOTT will be in Las Vegas on 30 May as out 10th anniversary party. Check out the announcement on FRONT PAGE folks!
I can't go on.....its too painful.
MTF
My reaction to the UN Basel 2011 offerings:
Thanks for the post, Marcus. It's great to see the gradual and measured progression of UN, just as Swiss horology should be. Everyone seems to be in such a rush over the last decade, but there's no hurry for companies that will eventually span hundreds of years.
I like the Quadrato in rose gold with the contrasting black ceramic bezel and the practical functions and clear time display.
The Classico with the blue enamel dial and stainless steel case containing a chronometer movement is a superb everyday watch with a touch of something special in the dial.
It's great to see the evolution (revolution?) of the Freaks culminating in the Diavolo. Great to see that UN continues to focus on the mechanics and not just the aesthetics of these watches.
I am not as convinced about bicolor watches as you, but the chocolate dial on the Marine Chronometer work well with the gold. I think my problem is that it reminds me too much of the 1980's. I had a bicolor Omega Seamaster that I wore continuously for 10 years. But it could be a future trend and there's little new in horology anyway.
Look forward to hearing more about the UN-118 and the advances inside.
Regards,
Andrew
Alexander the Great
I am suprised that nobody commented on the Alexander the Great. A stunning piece IMO but rather a dream watch, certainly not in my range of budget. Would love to see in metal though.
I agree with your comment Marcus that the Royal Blue Tourbillon is one of the few gem-set watches where the gem stones really add to the aesthetics. "Less is more" is true in most cases but here the addition of the saphires ist enhancing the design.
Finally, i am glad to see the San Marco back. However i would prefer it without date as placing of the date aperture far insde the dial looks a bit odd and it reaveals that the movemenet size is not matching the larger diameter of the case.
thanks for the wonderful report, Marcus!
best,
Stefan