Baselworld/SIHH

The watchmaker Patrick Sjögren and the bladesmith Johan Gustafsson met in 2007 and very quickly they decided to combine their talents to produce watches that would highlight their shared passion for traditional Scandinavian crafts.

For several years the  Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) watches have been characterized by their unique aesthetic approach created thanks to the multiple patterns and decorations possibilities  offered by  Damascus steel. Starting from a watch without complications, Gustafsson and Sjögren work the dials, the cases, the hands to provide a surprising result that manages to transport us into a mysterious Nordic world, at the same time enchanting and almost melancholic. The hardest part of this kind of approach is to find the right alchemy. There is a subtle way to find between the feeling of not going far enough in terms of originality and the too heavy demonstrative style. Gustafsson's and Sjögren's great asset  is to have managed to walk on this thin path because the dosage of the various decorative elements is perfect, each component falling in harmony with others.


The Nordic Seasons collection revisits the four seasons through spectacular set and shades of colors.  Each model is produced in 5 pieces, showing a wide diversity while using the same techniques. This  collection gave a deserved spotlight on the GoS watches. The way of Damascus steel case and dial coexist, the contrast between the colors of the dial and the neutral rendering of the case,  between the dial and bezel patterns, the slight touch of depth brought by the hands, the indexes and the working indicator, all these details contribute to the feeling to handle a timepiece which is faithful to the objective targeted by its creators.


The Winter Nights for Purists is in line with the Nordic Seasons collection while going much further in its aesthetic ambition in frankly tackling  the decoration of the movement. Indeed, the Winter Nights for Purists seems to be very close to a Nordic Seasons watch at the first glance. I find again with pleasure the 45mm case diameter, the index ring that makes me think about a medieval crown, the aggressive yet elegant hands shape and the working indicator, which I don't dare to call it "second hand" and which is in a sense, reminiscent of the Harry Winston shuriken ... Without any doubt, I am in a familiar background. But when I turn over the watch... a radical change pops up!

Thanks to the use of an exclusive movement developed by Martin Braun and Patrick Sjögren, the Winter Nights for Purists propels GoS in a new dimension, in where a full coherence is created between mechanics and aesthetics.


The  handwind GoS movement has similar features to the Unitas which powers the Nordic Seasons collection: a diameter of 36mm, a low frequency (2.5 Hz) and a power reserve of 72 hours (which is larger than the Unitas one). It is not a pure performance objective which is pursued with the new movement and even if its true added-value can't be found on this field, I have to confess that there is a kind of selfish pleasure when an exclusive movement operates the watch on my wrist... And we don't have to forget that thanks to Martin Braun's involvement, its horological contents are solid.


Indeed, its main advantage is the artistic freedom it gives to Johan Gustafsson. The main plate and bridges made of Damascus steel give the impression to build a 4/5 plate once gathered. The patterns on the plate remind of course those being on the opposite side of the watch while being  different. Their continuity demonstrates the care to details. You will notice that the particular shape of the working indicator is outlined on the ratchet as a reminder of the dial. The teeth of the ratchet and of the crown wheel were reviewed. And Johan Gustafsson has even managed to make the incabloc almost discreet which is not an easy task. I appreciate the beauty of this movement, simple in its architecture but completely magnified by its unusual and refined decoration.

If the watch as a whole embodies the traditional crafts, some details betray the contemporary  movement architecture. First, the power reserve indicator, symbolized by a very discreet hand is on the plate of the movement. No scale has been applied by the hand to take full advantage of a pure Damascus steel. Then the anchor and the escape wheel are made of silicon.


There are some other subtle differences between the Winter Nights for Purists and its predecessors of the Nordic Seasons: the slightly higher case thickness (12.5mm vs 11mm) and a larger crown for an easier handling.

However, a key element has not changed: it's just the beauty of the watch once put on the wrist. The dial pattern which is reminiscent of wood grain seems to animate itself according to the light conditions, the charm of the bezel acts thanks to its subtlety and the crown stands out with its more intense color. I understand better how Gustafsson and Sjögren have managed to find the perfect balance. The simplicity of the watch is the ideal framework for the expression of their talents and prevents inappropriate baroque effect. Despite the complexity of the design of the dial, the gold hands, indexes and working indicator  are clearly distinguishable and the legibility of the watch remains satisfactory. Everything else is just a beautiful mix of shapes, colors, the Winter Nights for Purists becoming a sort of kaleidoscope when I move the wrist.

The Winter Nights for Purists can be personalized:



Never finally Gustafsson's and Sjögren's respective achievements have been so intertwined. The greatest asset of the Winter Nights for Purists is to allow this fusion while maintaining the same visual pleasure caused by the dial and the bezel. I was seduced by the harmony of colors, the warmth of gold that enhances the smooth tones of the dial, the imposing size of the case which is made necessary to fully enjoy the Damascus steel decorations, the originality of the movement aesthetic. .. Simple and complex at the same time, but surprisingly refined, the Winter Nights for Purists is in my opinion one of the most artistically accomplished watches in recent years. It is a pity that it is only available in a limited edition of 10 pieces!


I would like to thank a lot Patrick Söjgren for his warm welcome during the Basel Fair.

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