Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
8540

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Cartier's iconic shapes

Form watches are one of Cartier's strengths. The Cartier Tank for instance is probably the most legendary rectangular watch in the world, rivalled only by the Reverso. Below is an extract from a presentation on the discontinued Collection Privee Cartier Paris. It shows four CPCP iconic case shapes, the Tortue, Tonneau, Tank and Rotonde. The Santos, arguably the most iconic Cartier aside from the Tank, is absent.

These are just a sampling of the best known Cartier shapes, some of the less known and more exotic ones are the bell-shaped Cloche and even the Crash. The latter is famous but extremely rare. Several of these were reissued as limited editions under the CPCP label.

The most exotic shaped cases though, are easily confused with ladies' watches, even if they were intended for men. For instance the Crash is a favourite of mine but it looks like a ladies' watch and Cartier generally offers it as such but the watch was a Maxi Ovale pre-crash, which was a men's sized timepiece back in the day. 

Above: Cartier Cloche, image courtesy Christie's 

Now the Fine Watchmaking collection boasts several of the iconic shapes, amongst others the Tortue, Tank and Santos. But these are the more traditional shapes.

Each case shape is also particularly suited to certain complications, in my opinion. The Santos would do great as a chronograph, thanks to its sporty look and heritage. I will also always associate the Tortue with the monopusher chronograph; that is a classic. The Tank on the other hand I see as a formal dress watch and less suited to complications.

So the question is, what case shapes should make a comeback in the Fine Watchmaking range? Or should Cartier work on new styles, as it has done with the Ballon Bleu and Calibre de Cartier? Perhaps a Crash jumping hours? 

- SJX