Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
8540

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The Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon - The one that began it all

Cartier presented the first model of its High Watchmaking collection, the Ballon Bleu flying tourbillon, at SIHH 2008. It was the first watch with the now distinct aesthetic of multi-layered ruthenium and silver dial that characterises the High Watchmaking collection.

At the time, observers were not particularly impressed with the tourbillon. Neither was I, admittedly. It was yet another tourbillon. And while the movement was well finished, it was not entirely original, being based on a Roger Dubuis calibre, albeit thoroughly reworked and improved.

Then Cartier unleashed the rest of the High Watchmaking collection in 2009, with several more models for 2010. In those three SIHH fairs Cartier has totally changed public perception of its high horology. Many are surprised at how fast and far Cartier has come, even industry insiders – I received some interesting comments in response to my factory report (click here to see it) from industry folk. At the very least there is a grudging respect for what Cartier has accomplished.

Cartier now offers more complicated tourbillons, like the Astrotourbillon and the Rotonde de Cartier skeleton tourbillon, both of which have more merit than the flying tourbillon in terms of technical achievement. But the original Ballon Bleu flying tourbillon, as well as the Tank Americaine and Santos 100, sell well, largely because they are represent a strong proposition at a particular price point.

If you look at the flying tourbillon closely, it has charm. The finishing on the movement is Geneva Seal quality, followed in spirit and not just to the letter. Decoration like Cotes de Geneva and anglage is carefully done, while less apparent details like bevelled spokes of the wheels are present as well.

Visually the movement is also attractive, combining Genevoise style elements like the elegant spring for the click of the ratchet with the Cartier “C” in the bridges and tourbillon cage. And if you look closely at the anti-shock spring of the cap jewel you will see a double “C”.

The only criticism I can make is that all three watches, the Ballon Bleu, Tank Americaine and Santos 100, are extremely large and the movement is small. The Ballon Bleu is 46 mm wide, the Tank Americaine is 35.8 x 52 mm and the Santos is 46.5 x 54.9 mm. Cartier, however, deserves credit for designing the dials and cases such that the tourbillon neither looks lost in a large dial nor uncomfortably close to the centre.

Even if it has been surpassed in complexity or innovation by other Cartier timepieces, the flying tourbillon has its place. Many years into the future when the history of Cartier is written, this will be remembered as the first of many.

- SJX