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WHL
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H. Moser Concept Watch

When I was at a Breguet event the people at Breguet put an interesting photo with a set of six watches up on a screen: the brand signature was removed from the dial of each of them. The point was that Breguet makes watches with such well-defined design codes that you can identify the watch easily without need to refer to the signature on the dial. In Breguet’s case there is the coin edge finish on the side of the case, the guiloche dial, and the blued Breguet hands with Roman numbers. While an experienced collector could identify the other watches with signatures removed (Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars, Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control, Lange), the Breguet Classique stood out as easiest to identify simply because of those core codes.

So it was a pleasant surprise just a few months later to see Moser come out with its Concept watch, in which the signature, and a few other elements, are removed to allow the design to stand up for itself. The initial press release showed a white gold watch with gray fume dial:

What was not clearly stated was that there were going to be three other variations on that theme, each limited to 10 pieces. Also in the white gold case is a blue fume dial. The other two Concept pieces are in the rose gold case with either blue fume or gray fume dials.

I had the chance to handle the rose gold piece with blue fume and share it here.

While Moser watches look great head on, I find that there is a lot of charm in the finish along the sides of the “Endeavour” case, which has a comfortable 40.8 mm diameter:

and once seen, with its vertical satin finish and sculpted lines, it is just as identifiable to me as the coin edge of a Breguet.

The fume dials that Moser has employed are gorgeous, brining a dynamic character to the dials of the watches, and one is pretty much unique to the Moser brand. Removing the hour index markers allows the fume dial to speak for itself.

While  feullie hands are not exclusive to Moser, the brand has made them part of its DNA, and they do the job required of them.

The movement is Moser’s in-house manual winding caliber HMC 343.

It features two mainspring barrels that power the watch for 7 days. The power reserve indicator is on mainplate. I have always liked slower beat escapements, and this one beats at 18,000 VPH, an the winged bridge for the balance is beautifully finished.

Moser has stripped the Concept watch to the bare minimum for what is needed in a fine timepiece, and I find both the concept and execution to be outstanding. The retail price in USD is $26,500, a relatively modest premium to the classic Endeavour Center Seconds timepieces, though I suspect all models have been claimed by now.

Bill