The “Dress” Watch

Hi,

In 2012, I am going to add a classically designed, timeless, gold dress watch to my collection. I think that I want a rose gold watch, because while my sensibilities also draw me to white gold, it may not stand out from the stainless steel watches within my collection and I do not wear any yellow gold.

I am looking for a traditional sized watch (e.g. <39 mm), manual wind with either a central or small seconds, I am thinking a light dial but I could go either way, I tend to prefer second demarcation in the chapter ring but I am open based perhaps giving on this one. I would like a sapphire display back to be able to see a beautifully finished movement.

With that as a background, I was looking for some suggestions. Since we do not discuss price around here, I can share with you some watches that I have identified.

Within Reach:

· Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars (15056OR.OO.A067CR.02 – still on AP site but might be discontinued)

· Breguet Classique (5907BR/12/984)

· Chronoswiss Sirius (CH 1021R)

Within Reach (but a stretch)

· A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia (215.032)

· H. Moser & Cie Mayu (321.503-005)

· Vacheron Constantin Patramony Traditionelle (82172/000R-9382)

Watches I looked at but did not make the cut…

Blancpain has moved Villeret to 40 mm (too large), Chopard LUC (43 mm), Girard-Perregaux were all automatics, I found the Glashutte Original Senator Sixties attractive but somewhat a snap-shot in time aesthetically, the Jaeger-Lecoultre MUT 39 mm has no second hand and the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119R aesthetically does not move me (and I suspect it is above my budget).

Questions:

Forgetting the aesthetic preferences between these watches, I would appreciate understanding some contrasts in their quality or caliber designs from those of you with more experience. I obviously am interested in the potential differences in quality between the stretch watches and the within reach watches? I am more movement focused in my line of questioning than case focused. Lastly, are there other watches that I should consider that are not listed here?

Your knowledge and insights are appreciated as always!

Bob

💰1729 Marketplace Listings for Patek Philippe›A. Lange and Söhne Saxonia · 1 for sale · 1486 discussions›

It's a personal decision, but I found that owning a Lange saved me money.

By: mkvc : December 23rd, 2011-12:36

Once I owned a Lange, I lost interest in other display-back watches. The combination of superior finishing, choice of materials and truly rewarding aesthetic design really took me out of the market.

What others did you own?

By: iim7v7im7 : December 23rd, 2011-13:52

Thanks for sharing your comments. What others did you have? Bob

I got the Lange early in my collecting life.

By: mkvc : December 23rd, 2011-21:03

Thus, I did not own many other display-back watches. Since then I have bought a few display-back watches, but none particularly high end and I never cared whether they had display backs. Also since then I have bought closed-back Pateks, Audemars, and mayb...

This is a wise comment.

By: foversta : December 23rd, 2011-14:48

I highly suggest to go to a brand which offers superior craftmanship for this kind of watch and with a handwind movement. I don't know why but for me a true dress watch has to be wound every morning... question of life style maybe. Anyway, what do we have...

Thanks for the Advice

By: iim7v7im7 : December 23rd, 2011-15:00

Fx, I noticed that Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars or a Breguet Classique were not included in your brands with superior craftmenship list. Was this an oversight or an intentional commentary on their quality relative to ALS, PP, VC and Piaget? If you care ...

They are nice but they lack the little something which makes them gorgeous.

By: foversta : December 23rd, 2011-15:17

Both AP and Breguet are nice but I don't know... it is due to their small sizes (35/36mm), their movements (movement used in the Breguet is an automatic movement converted in a handwind one which is quite disappointing), the fact that these brands have mu...

I understand

By: iim7v7im7 : December 23rd, 2011-15:28

Breguet=Too small at 34.6 mm and a converted Frederic Piguet 1150 Audemars Piguet= Too small at 36 mm BTW, I looked at the Piaget watches. It seems as if all of the models with small seconds are automatics. Was there a particular model that you were sugge...

Oh no Bob !

By: foversta : December 23rd, 2011-15:44

You will easily find an Altiplano with an handwind movement and with a small second. But in that case, it will be located at 10 o'clock. Case size is 40mm. Fx...

i will go for Lange Saxonia or Moser Mayu

By: Hororgasm : December 23rd, 2011-15:31

if you are a movement guy, you will prob wanna go for manufactures with own movements. and these two sports superlative finishing. the Breguet may not sport the most refined finishing, but it has the most interesting dial with a full dose of "Breguetness"...

I am very surprised that you did not include

By: dr.kol : December 23rd, 2011-18:21

to your list JLC MUT or nobody proposed that. I have a nice collection of simple dress watches: AP; Chopard, two Breguet, Cartier, 2 Patek, 3 VC, 3 JLC... and in my opinion JLC has it all: It's having a wonderful movement, manual wind, simple, elegant, we...

Thanks but

By: iim7v7im7 : December 23rd, 2011-18:53

If only it had a seconds hand... I like the JLC MUT 38 mm, but.... Bob

I see...

By: dr.kol : December 23rd, 2011-19:38

When selecting dress watches for myself, seconds are NO NO . When wearing a watch with formal dress, I have never selected a watch with seconds. I think that a watch with just two hands is so clean and simple plus if it is very slim, then we speak about a...

How about a "Reverso"?

By: grigo : December 23rd, 2011-21:55

Some very nice one out there. They make for a fine dresse watch. Best regards, George

Some Case Back Images

By: iim7v7im7 : December 24th, 2011-03:03

Here some case back images (thanks Google Image) of a number of hand wound dress watches from ALS, AP, Breguet, PP and VC. The differences that I see are not so much in finish but in design and construction technique (plates, chantons, German Silver or Rh...