2014
is marking a very special year for Seiko: It is not a specific
anniversary, nor the launch of a very special timepiece, but it is the
year when a generations-long orientation of the Seiko company was
reconsidered. For decades, markets outside Japan, especially the
European one, were treated differently: the latter were well served with
inexpensive mass-produced watches and - mostly multi-functional -
quartz timepieces. The finely crafted “Grand Seiko” or “Credor” series,
or the well-built professional diving watches could only be found in the
Japanese domestic market, with only a few sales points outside. As a
consequence, the wish of watch enthusiasts to import these pieces
oneself was strong, but could also lead to further problems, since the
repair or service of these specialties could often be only done by the
Seiko watchmakers in Japan.
Since 2014, not only Grand Seiko
watches are available practically everywhere, but also the Prospex line
of timepieces for professional divers will be distributed globally.
Apparently, this will include the technical service, repair and
regulation of even the famous Marinemaster dive watch with its monobloc
case.
Finally,
Seiko chose to appreciate Baselworld’s role as world’s largest horology
fair and decided to globally launch a new movement for the Grand Seiko
line here, instead of in Japan.
In my opinion, this indicates a
certain shift of paradigms indeed, and I hope it will continue towards a
full integration of Western markets into the Seiko’s product strategy
and distribution, also regarding the future design and technical
development.
But let us look at the 2014 novelties presented by Seiko in Basel:
Never
shown before is the new movement cal. 9S86 for the Grand Seiko
collection. The well-known high-beat movement cal. 9S85 with its 36,000
A/h balance frequency was upgraded with an additional 24 hours-hand to
indicate the time in a different time zone. This hand can be easily set
in hourly increments via the crown.
To
celebrate the launch of this new movement, Seiko releases the
stunningly beautiful Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition with only 600
pieces produced. Main feature of this edition is a deeply saturated
green lacquer dial. In direct light, this difficult to photograph dial
is glittering, thanks to the decoratively grinded metal base under the
translucent green lacquer. For me, this is the most attractive Grand
Seiko I have ever seen.
Unlimited models of the Hi-Beat GMT will be offered with white and black dials.
New
models are also added to the Grand Seiko line with cal. 9R15 Spring
Drive movements: 40mm cases from stainless steel have either silver or
dark blue dials and are limited to 500 pieces each. Even more exclusive
is a platinum version with a gorgeous chamoix-coloured dial, black
alligator strap, limited to 50 pieces only.
Another novelty for the Seiko
distribution network is the global availability of the Prospex line,
which now collects its dedicated diving and aviation watches. This new
start is marked by a new watch, the Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver.
Equipped
with the cal. 5M85 Kinetic GMT movement, this massive watch (47.5mm
diameter) features a unique case construction consisting of two case
shells, where the outer also protects the revolving diving bezel.
Nowhere
on the booth the well-known automatic Prospex diving watches (Sumo,
Marinemaster) were visible, only Kinetic and quartz timepieces. However,
I was told that the automatic Prospex watches still remain in the line
and will also be offered outside Japan.
Finally, we saw the
surprising presentation of the new Astron GPS Solar. Surprising it was,
because the Astron had been launched with quite a buzz only one and a
half years ago. The new version not only adds a chronograph to the
originally already impressive list of functions, but is also a lot
easier to use, offers a quicker GPS fix, and is about 30% smaller. With a
diameter of under 45mm, it is much more discreet on the wrist, and
therefore better suited to fulfil the role of a daily worn timepiece.
Why Seiko did not include all these
improvements already from the very beginning, and if the 2012 launch of
the Astron might have been premature, maybe influenced by the
presentation of a Citizen GPS watch in the same year, remain open
questions. I can imagine that some buyers of the first version will not
be too happy about the quick release of a more potent, smaller and
even less expensive successor.
A wide variety of dial colours is
offered, together with the choice of either stainless steel or titanium
cases. The titanium variants have slightly larger pushers.
Copyright April 2014 - Marcus Hanke & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved
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Seiko at Basel 2014 reported by Marcus Hanke 2014 is marking a very special year for Seiko: It is not a specific anniversary, nor the launch of a very special timepiece, but it is the year when a generations-long orientation of the Seiko company was recon...
Even if these watches are not on my radar screen, I have to confess that the reduced size of the Astron makes them more appealing to me... some versions were pretty nice. Thanks Marcus for the great write-up and pics! Fx
. . . including So Cal, there's a good chance to see the highly praised LE GMT. I can't remember seeing the original HF LE in the metal, and was curious as to the effect wrought by the green dial. Thanks very much for bringing us this report, Marcus. Art
Yes, I am really looking forward to see more GS watches in the shops, although I have to be realistic: competition at this level is very stiff, and many Seiko dealers might hesitate to take this large step upward. Marcus
And for bringing us news of the growing international expansion of Seiko's high-end watches. I suspect they will soon no longer be a novelty or rare item. What will happen to my dozen (formerly rare) GS watches? Will they be seen on every wrist on every s...
:) I think we can safely assume that the world will not rotate quicker or slower because of Seiko's decision to distribute GRand Seikos globally. What I personally see in the future is a larger variety in design and complications to be added. In the relat...
... with my photography, though. In order to reduce the weight (if not my own, then at least that of the equipment!), I completely changed my photography setup, including camera and lighting. Seiko was my first appointment in Basel, and despite having don...