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PuristSPro report: Seiko at Baselworld 2014

 

  
Seiko at Basel 2014

reported by Marcus Hanke




2014 is marking a very special year for Seiko: It is not a specific anniversary, nor the launch of a very special timepiece, but it is the year when a generations-long orientation of the Seiko company was reconsidered. For decades, markets outside Japan, especially the European one, were treated differently: the latter were well served with inexpensive mass-produced watches and - mostly multi-functional - quartz timepieces. The finely crafted “Grand Seiko” or “Credor” series, or the well-built professional diving watches could only be found in the Japanese domestic market, with only a few sales points outside. As a consequence, the wish of watch enthusiasts to import these pieces oneself was strong, but could also lead to further problems, since the repair or service of these specialties could often be only done by the Seiko watchmakers in Japan.

Since 2014, not only Grand Seiko watches are available practically everywhere, but also the Prospex line of timepieces for professional divers will be distributed globally. Apparently, this will include the technical service, repair and regulation of even the famous Marinemaster dive watch with its monobloc case.





Finally, Seiko chose to appreciate Baselworld’s role as world’s largest horology fair and decided to globally launch a new movement for the Grand Seiko line here, instead of in Japan.

In my opinion, this indicates a certain shift of paradigms indeed, and I hope it will continue towards a full integration of Western markets into the Seiko’s product strategy and distribution, also regarding the future design and technical development.

But let us look at the 2014 novelties presented by Seiko in Basel:

Never shown before is the new movement cal. 9S86 for the Grand Seiko collection. The well-known high-beat movement cal. 9S85 with its 36,000 A/h balance frequency was upgraded with an additional 24 hours-hand to indicate the time in a different time zone. This hand can be easily set in hourly increments via the crown.



To celebrate the launch of this new movement, Seiko releases the stunningly beautiful Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition with only 600 pieces produced. Main feature of this edition is a deeply saturated green lacquer dial. In direct light, this difficult to photograph dial is glittering, thanks to the decoratively grinded metal base under the translucent green lacquer. For me, this is the most attractive Grand Seiko I have ever seen.



Unlimited models of the Hi-Beat GMT will be offered with white and black dials.

New models are also added to the Grand Seiko line with cal. 9R15 Spring Drive movements: 40mm cases from stainless steel have either silver or dark blue dials and are limited to 500 pieces each. Even more exclusive is a platinum version with a gorgeous chamoix-coloured dial, black alligator strap, limited to 50 pieces only.












Another novelty for the Seiko distribution network is the global availability of the Prospex line, which now collects its dedicated diving and aviation watches. This new start is marked by a new watch, the Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver.



Equipped with the cal. 5M85 Kinetic GMT movement, this massive watch (47.5mm diameter) features a unique case construction consisting of two case shells, where the outer also protects the revolving diving bezel.



Nowhere on the booth the well-known automatic Prospex diving watches (Sumo, Marinemaster) were visible, only Kinetic and quartz timepieces. However, I was told that the automatic Prospex watches still remain in the line and will also be offered outside Japan.

Finally, we saw the surprising presentation of the new Astron GPS Solar. Surprising it was, because the Astron had been launched with quite a buzz only one and a half years ago. The new version not only adds a chronograph to the originally already impressive list of functions, but is also a lot easier to use, offers a quicker GPS fix, and is about 30% smaller. With a diameter of under 45mm, it is much more discreet on the wrist, and therefore better suited to fulfil the role of a daily worn timepiece.







Why Seiko did not include all these improvements already from the very beginning, and if the 2012 launch of the Astron might have been premature, maybe influenced by the presentation of a Citizen GPS watch in the same year, remain open questions. I can imagine that some buyers of the first version will not be too happy about the quick release of a more potent, smaller and even less expensive successor.







A wide variety of dial colours is offered, together with the choice of either stainless steel or titanium cases. The titanium variants have slightly larger pushers.

 





















 

Copyright April 2014 - Marcus Hanke & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved

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Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcome.


This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2014-04-06 23:52:23

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