Seiko

2014 is marking a very special year for Seiko: It is not a specific anniversary, nor the launch of a very special timepiece, but it is the year when a generations-long orientation of the Seiko company was reconsidered. For decades, markets outside Japan, especially the European one, were treated differently: the latter were well served with inexpensive mass-produced watches and - mostly multi-functional - quartz timepieces. The finely crafted “Grand Seiko” or “Credor” series, or the well-built professional diving watches could only be found in the Japanese domestic market, with only a few sales points outside. As a consequence, the wish of watch enthusiasts to import these pieces oneself was strong, but could also lead to further problems, since the repair or service of these specialties could often be only done by the Seiko watchmakers in Japan.

Since 2014, not only Grand Seiko watches are available practically everywhere, but also the Prospex line of timepieces for professional divers will be distributed globally. Apparently, this will include the technical service, repair and regulation of even the famous Marinemaster dive watch with its monobloc case.



Finally, Seiko chose to appreciate Baselworld’s role as world’s largest horology fair and decided to globally launch a new movement for the Grand Seiko line here, instead of in Japan.

In my opinion, this indicates a certain shift of paradigms indeed, and I hope it will continue towards a full integration of Western markets into the Seiko’s product strategy and distribution, also regarding the future design and technical development.

But let us look at the 2014 novelties presented by Seiko in Basel:

Never shown before is the new movement cal. 9S86 for the Grand Seiko collection. The well-known high-beat movement cal. 9S85 with its 36,000 A/h balance frequency was upgraded with an additional 24 hours-hand to indicate the time in a different time zone. This hand can be easily set in hourly increments via the crown.


To celebrate the launch of this new movement, Seiko releases the stunningly beautiful Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition with only 600 pieces produced. Main feature of this edition is a deeply saturated green lacquer dial. In direct light, this difficult to photograph dial is glittering, thanks to the decoratively grinded metal base under the translucent green lacquer. For me, this is the most attractive Grand Seiko I have ever seen.


Unlimited models of the Hi-Beat GMT will be offered with white and black dials.

New models are also added to the Grand Seiko line with cal. 9R15 Spring Drive movements: 40mm cases from stainless steel have either silver or dark blue dials and are limited to 500 pieces each. Even more exclusive is a platinum version with a gorgeous chamoix-coloured dial, black alligator strap, limited to 50 pieces only.


Another novelty for the Seiko distribution network is the global availability of the Prospex line, which now collects its dedicated diving and aviation watches. This new start is marked by a new watch, the Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver.


Equipped with the cal. 5M85 Kinetic GMT movement, this massive watch (47.5mm diameter) features a unique case construction consisting of two case shells, where the outer also protects the revolving diving bezel.


Nowhere on the booth the well-known automatic Prospex diving watches (Sumo, Marinemaster) were visible, only Kinetic and quartz timepieces. However, I was told that the automatic Prospex watches still remain in the line and will also be offered outside Japan.

Finally, we saw the surprising presentation of the new Astron GPS Solar. Surprising it was, because the Astron had been launched with quite a buzz only one and a half years ago. The new version not only adds a chronograph to the originally already impressive list of functions, but is also a lot easier to use, offers a quicker GPS fix, and is about 30% smaller. With a diameter of under 45mm, it is much more discreet on the wrist, and therefore better suited to fulfil the role of a daily worn timepiece.


Why Seiko did not include all these improvements already from the very beginning, and if the 2012 launch of the Astron might have been premature, maybe influenced by the presentation of a Citizen GPS watch in the same year, remain open questions. I can imagine that some buyers of the first version will not be too happy about the quick release of a more potent, smaller and even less expensive successor.


A wide variety of dial colours is offered, together with the choice of either stainless steel or titanium cases. The titanium variants have slightly larger pushers.

This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2014-04-06 23:52:23

Even if these watches are not on my radar screen, I have to confess that the reduced size of the Astron makes them more appealing to me... some versions were pretty nice.

Thanks Marcus for the great write-up and pics!

Fx

... besides the T-Touch. It already duly impressed me at its first Basel appearance last year, and the more so with this new version 2.0.

Marcus

. . . including So Cal, there's a good chance to see the highly praised LE GMT.  I can't remember seeing the original HF LE in the metal, and was curious as to the effect wrought by the green dial.  

Yes, I am really looking forward to see more GS watches in the shops, although I have to be realistic: competition at this level is very stiff, and many Seiko dealers might hesitate to take this large step upward.

Marcus

And for bringing us news of the growing international expansion of Seiko's high-end watches. 

I think we can safely assume that the world will not rotate quicker or slower because of Seiko's decision to distribute GRand Seikos globally. What I personally see in the future is a larger variety in design and complications to be added. In the relative safety of its domestic market, the GS became a bit too petrified in its own design tradition, in my opinion. Now, with the stiff competition of the various high midrange Swiss brands offering their products in the GS price level, Seiko might feel compelled to react with more variations in design and technology. I know that many fans of "the first hour" are likely to feel terrified at this prospect, but I believe that Grand Seiko has not only the potential, but also the ability to challenge Swiss products in the field of high-quality mechanical timepieces.

For example, if I look at the current Omega AquaTerra line, that defines the technical state of the art of mechanical (three hand) watches now, but lacks in the field of hand-perfected movement finish. Seiko could combine the two pillars. Well, let's just wait what future will bring.

Regards,
Marcus

Glad this came out as out anticipation was growing

Your pics are always so good and narratives are informative.

I wish I had been there!

Best,

Ken

... with my photography, though. In order to reduce the weight (if not my own, then at least that of the equipment!), I completely changed my photography setup, including camera and lighting. Seiko was my first appointment in Basel, and despite having done some "training" at home, I realized that in field conditions, things worked differently. Looking at my photographic output from Basel, I notice that the later appointments generally resulted in better pictures, since I mastered camera and lighting setup better.

Marcus

I guess it's about time for me to put my satellite clocks on my wrist, isn't it?