christianch
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Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42mm lapis lazuli review
I was always intrigued with some of the Roger Dubuis models. I first heard about the brand in 2011 when I received in the mail a thick and gold hedged invitation for the themed " La Monégasque" evening. The event was impressive and I really loved the watches. Unfortunately, even the more basic models, were out of my price range.
In 2013 I was even more in love with a limited edition of the excalibur 42mm: the one in lapis lazuli. I absolutely loved
the combination white gold with a precious stone. Fast forward to today and I could finally acquire this amazing watch.
This short reviews will also try to quickly compare what the same budget could buy from a more historic brand and why did I go
for the excalibur 42:
The sizing and proportions of the watch are excellent from my wrist - or what do you think ?
In purchasing any luxury watch in this price range the movement becomes a very important element.
This is where, in my view, Roger Dubuis excels: the micro-rotor automatic movement is truly special.
The fact that all watches hold the hallmark of geneva (the only manufacture to have it in all the range)
is to me very unique too (I will discuss more on this point later on)
Quick Comparison
Quick Comparison
With the risk of sounding a bit heretic I would like to compare the roger dubuis excalibur 42mm
with two similarly priced high end watches: the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 and
the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1952.
I am aware of the striking comparison and that comparing watches is a very subjective process. This
said it might help in answering the question "why a Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 and not the more
established, wise investment of the X or Y that is in the same price range ?"
I can't obviously answer the question for the ultra-high end pieces but I suspect that, like in the case
of these more basic models, the main difference is style and personality.
Let's start with the American 1921:
This is a very classic yet unique watch - also known as the drivers watch - that certainly has
a lot of the classy and traditional DNA of Vacheron Constantin. I was always attracted by
this watch capacity of being a classic yet slightly less "boring" that other options. It is pretty much
in the same price range of the excalibur 42 - so why not ?
Let's continue with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-Fine 1952:
This watch is really ultra thin! Photos cannot really visualise the dimension of the watch that is
extremely thin and light. The manual movement is mostly made in gold and is another example of
a classic, very elegant watch that like the name suggests, has passed the test of time for many years.
Back to the excalibur with the other two options in the background. So why not ? Obviously
I can only answer this question just for myself. My experience with very classic - good investment
pieces (e.g. Patek Philippe Calatrava 5127) has been a mixed one. On one side I enjoyed (and still
enjoy) the watch understated elegance but, on the other side, it is sometimes too much understatement.
At times it is so understatement that fails to make any statement at all. Both Vacheron watches entered
in the same category with another minus: the manual movement. To be clear I am am not trying to
rationalise a watch purchase - that is a 99.999% emotional endeavour - but just to explain the risks of buying
watches in the similar style-category that might not get much wrist time.
The lapis lazuli royal blue dial is obviously the unique feature of this watch. Being also a limited edition
issued a few years ago it is not something you come across that often.
In stark contrast with other Roger Dubuis pieces the excalibur 42mm is fairly thin and the
curved lugs not only complement the design but make it a very comfortable watch to wear.
The clasp design and finish is just perfect. It might sound as a small detail but you might be
surprise to see how many high end watch don't have very comfortable clasps.
Here is in the snow, at natural light - depending on the light it might appear a darker or lighter shade of blue
Now home 
On the Hallmark of Geneva - also known as Geneva Seal or, in the original language Poinçon de Genève - It is the first
time that I buy a watch that it actually includes the seal together with the watch documents ! Now this is truly special
and a great idea from Roger Dubuis. I understand that many believe that this is mostly a marketing move and the standards
of the hallmark might be not that relevant - but I still think that it is a very old and valuable indicator of quality.
To my the idea of Patek to create their own hallmark seal defeats the purpose of external certification. So yes this factor
was a big plus in my decision.
In Conclusion:
In Conclusion:
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42mm is a great option if you are looking for something truly different in the design,
movement and the highest level of quality also attested through the hallmark of geneva.
The style of Roger Dubuis is certainly different - but in many case younger - than other well established brands
in the same price range. The movement and finishing is, in my view, au pair or superior with the more historical brands.
What do you think ?
