After one full week in Geneva, I consider that Lange, along with Cartier
and JLC, was one of the most convincing brands of the 2013 SIHH.
Honestly speaking, I was not expecting to see in 2013 some watches of
the new collection. But after all, surprises are always welcome... when
they are positive! Actually, I would have imagined the Grande
Complication debut in 2014 (20th anniversary of the first collection) or
in 2015 (200th anniversary of F.A.Lange birth).
Lange presented
7 novelties including variations of existing models what can be
considered as a very reasonable figure. But we don't have to forget that
Lange is a small company which roughly produces around 4500 watches per
year and in this context, the key indictor is the number of new
movements.
If we analyse the new collection, we can find 3 new
movements including the most impressive one ever produced by Lange in a
wristwatch.
Grande Complication=New movement
1815 Rattrapante PC=New movement
1815 up and down=New movement
Grand Lange 1 Black dial=movement already existing
Grand Lange 1 Lumen=movement already existing
Saxonia Automatic with diamond-set bezel=movement already existing
Saxonia Annual Calendar=movement already existing
If
we put aside the very specific case of the Grande Complication which
will be produced at a very slow rhythm (one per year), the two other new
movements deserve a closer look.
Despite its reference, the
caliber L051.2 of the 1815 up and down is different from the L051.1 of
the 1815. It has a larger power reserve (72 hours) which gives a
justification of the use of the power reserve display. But even more
important, it gives another proof of a new trand firstly observed with
the Saxonia Thin: the handwind movements have a new lay-out and the 3/4
plate doesn't hide the click, the ratchet and the crown wheel. Of course
we can regret to lose the purety of the 3/4 plate. But let's face it:
with more visible parts, the movement is more enjoyable... and we also
have ther addition of the small planetary gear train of the power
reserve indicator.
So this 1815 up and down can't be considered as a "mere" 1815 with the addition of a complication: it is a true new watch.
The
movement L101.1 of the 1815 Rattrapante PC is for me, one of the most
gorgeous ever produced by Lange. It is not only a question of finishings
but also of lay-out. The split-second system creates an unusual view
of the movement... Double-Split included.
The Grand Lange 1 Lumen
was unveiled before the Salon at a Pre-SIHH event and I already
presented a comprehensive report on it. The 3 remaining watches even if
they don't produce the same feeling of surprise than the watches with
new movements also deserve a closer look.
I propose you to
discover in more details these 7 novelties. Each watch will be presented
in two parts: the first part with my own feelings and pictures, the
second one with the press release of the brand.
But before... we need to enter the booth!
