The “Dress” Watch
Hi,
In 2012, I am going to add a classically designed, timeless, gold dress watch to my collection. I think that I want a rose gold watch, because while my sensibilities also draw me to white gold, it may not stand out from the stainless steel watches within my collection and I do not wear any yellow gold.
I am looking for a traditional sized watch (e.g. <39 mm), manual wind with either a central or small seconds, I am thinking a light dial but I could go either way, I tend to prefer second demarcation in the chapter ring but I am open based perhaps giving on this one. I would like a sapphire display back to be able to see a beautifully finished movement.
With that as a background, I was looking for some suggestions. Since we do not discuss price around here, I can share with you some watches that I have identified.
Within Reach:
· Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars (15056OR.OO.A067CR.02 – still on AP site but might be discontinued)
· Breguet Classique (5907BR/12/984)
· Chronoswiss Sirius (CH 1021R)
Within Reach (but a stretch)
· A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia (215.032)
· H. Moser & Cie Mayu (321.503-005)
· Vacheron Constantin Patramony Traditionelle (82172/000R-9382)
Watches I looked at but did not make the cut…
Blancpain has moved Villeret to 40 mm (too large), Chopard LUC (43 mm), Girard-Perregaux were all automatics, I found the Glashutte Original Senator Sixties attractive but somewhat a snap-shot in time aesthetically, the Jaeger-Lecoultre MUT 39 mm has no second hand and the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119R aesthetically does not move me (and I suspect it is above my budget).
Questions:
Forgetting the aesthetic preferences between these watches, I would appreciate understanding some contrasts in their quality or caliber designs from those of you with more experience. I obviously am interested in the potential differences in quality between the stretch watches and the within reach watches? I am more movement focused in my line of questioning than case focused. Lastly, are there other watches that I should consider that are not listed here?
Your knowledge and insights are appreciated as always!
Bob
It's a personal decision, but I found that owning a Lange saved me money.
What others did you own?
Thanks for sharing your comments. What others did you have?
Bob
I got the Lange early in my collecting life.
This is a wise comment.
Anyway, what do we have ?
Lange with the Saxonia, Patek with the 5196, Vacheron with the Patrimony, Piaget Altiplano: I think you can't be wrong with one of these.
Fx
Thanks for the Advice
Fx,
I noticed that Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars or a Breguet Classique were not included in your brands with superior craftmenship list. Was this an oversight or an intentional commentary on their quality relative to ALS, PP, VC and Piaget? If you care to expand on your reasoning, I'd appreciate the education.
Thanks Again,
Bob
They are nice but they lack the little something which makes them gorgeous.
In a few words: they lack charisma for my point of view.
Fx
I understand
Breguet=Too small at 34.6 mm and a converted Frederic Piguet 1150
Audemars Piguet= Too small at 36 mm
BTW, I looked at the Piaget watches. It seems as if all of the models with small seconds are automatics. Was there a particular model that you were suggesting I look at?
Bob
Oh no Bob !
Case size is 40mm.
Fx
i will go for Lange Saxonia or Moser Mayu
if you are a movement guy, you will prob wanna go for manufactures with own movements. and these two sports superlative finishing. the Breguet may not sport the most refined finishing, but it has the most interesting dial with a full dose of "Breguetness".
best,
Horo
I am very surprised that you did not include
I see...
How about a "Reverso"?
Some very nice one out there. They make for a fine dresse watch.
Best regards,
George
Some Case Back Images
Here some case back images (thanks Google Image) of a number of hand wound dress watches from ALS, AP, Breguet, PP and VC.
The differences that I see are not so much in finish but in design and construction technique (plates, chantons, German Silver or Rhodium plating etc.).To me the ALS and the VC are the most aesthetically pleasing (subjective). Both the AP and PP appear quite small in proportion to their cases. The Breguet and the VC have a more modern feel to them (I am not sure why?). Obviously, this is the "show" side of the movement. I am curious whether there are larger differences on the dial sides OR at this level are they all fairly similar?
I also see differences in case back design and construction, Again the ALS (odd that the screws don't match, prototype?)and the VC (no fasteners)appear the most integrated with the case closely followed by the Breguet. Again, the AP and PP feel more like simple lathe pieces that have been screwed on.
I am hoping that these images will serve to visually illustrate and stimulate a dialogue.
Bob
