Marcus Hanke
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Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" In-Depth Review, Part 2
Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea"
Test report by Marcus Hanke
Part 2
IV. Strap and clasp:
From the beginning, the Marine Diver series offered a very unique rubber strap, combined with metal links. While these and the twin folding clasp normally are made from titanium, the “Black Sea” features black ceramic parts, which not only look absolutely stunning, but are also more or less scratch-proof. Even after digging in rocks and sand during a unique off-road driving experience I could not find any damage to the ceramic links.
However, it is possible to scratch the material, since I somehow, at a later time, must have brought a tiny scratch into a part of the clasp; not really visible, though, and I really cannot recall the occasion when this happened.
A comparison with the original rubber strap of a decade ago reveals several changes: Aside the attractive wave pattern, identical with that on the dial, the new rubber strap is slightly thinner and softer, even more comfortable on the wrist. The twin-folding clasp has become larger, and the titanium folding parts now have smoothly rounded edges.
What is still missing is a true quick-adjustment device for the strap length. The rubber strap has to be cut into the correct length as exactly as possible. After that, the only way to change the length, when for example the wrist circumference increases on a hot summer day, is by rearranging the spring bars in the clasp, which can be done only with a sharply pointed tool, and at most results in an additional half centimeter only. Since quick-adjustment devices integrated into the folding clasps are increasingly common now, I think that Ulysse Nardin should close up to the competitors in this respect.
V. Movement
The “Black Sea” is powered by the well-known ETA 2892A2, complemented with a module for the power reserve display and small second, which is produced inhouse by Ulysse Nardin. Compared with early Marine Diver vintages, the movement sports a more refined decoration, circular stripes nicely match the decoration style used on UN’s own inhouse movements as well. Additionally, a black coated rotor quotes the basic colour of the “Black Sea” series.
Well polished screw heads are a part of the movement's overall good finish
The ETA 2892 is a well-proven and reliable movement, and serves perfectly as engine for the Marine series watches since about seventeen years. However, due to the restrictive sales strategy of the Swatch Group regarding movement kits, and Ulysse Nardin’s own efforts in developing and producing movements, it is just a matter of time until the Marine Diver will also receive the new Ulysse Nardin cal. 118 inhouse movement, that was already shown as engine for the new Marine Chronometer in Basel this year.
VI. Accuracy
It might not be widely known that the term “chronometer” is not legally protected, so it can be used to identify watches with movements that have not been certified by the Swiss chronometry control institute, the COSC. In recent times, the “Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres” has met increasingly critical comments, mainly focussing on the testing routines, and the fact that only the bare movements, without the watch cases are tested. This principle ignores the possibility that certified movements can be compromised during the encasing procedure. Consequently, numerous watch manufacturers have decided not to send any movements to the COSC, but rather subject them to their own testing routines, that better reflect the practical situation of actually wearing a watch.
However, the COSC tests have a big advantage: Contrary to the companies’ testing methods, which remain unpublished, the former are transparent through public documentation of processes and value limits, and therefore its results are - at least partially - comparable throughout the industry. This is also the reason why I am generally following the COSC procedures during my own timing tests, with slight modifications: I do not have a possibility to store watches for several days at a constant temperature of 38 degrees Celsius, so I omit the temperature tests. On the other hand, I test the watches in all four vertical positions, not only in three, as is the case with the COSC tests. Very important for me is the check of variations within the same position over at least two days: A watch can be a great performer with a gain of only one second during 24 hours, but has a serious problem if it loses ten seconds in the same position over the next day.
Finally, the daily accuracy is also recorded when the watch is actively worn 24/7, with mostly full mainspring tension.
Having said that, it should be noted that the “Black Sea”, while being marked as “Chronometer”, does not have a movement certified by the COSC. Nowhere on the dial is stated that the chronometer is “officially certified”, instead the print says “Marine Diver Chronometer”.
I have absolutely no reason to assume the internal accuracy testing methods executed at the Ulysse Nardin factory to be in any way inferior to those of the COSC - in the contrary: my recent visit showed a huge battery of testing and timing machines, and I know that the fully assembled watches spend a rather long time on these machines, and quite frequently are returned to the watchmakers for additional adjustment, when the test result protocols show a value that is out of the limits. Yet I think that especially a company so tightly connected with the history of chronometry as Ulysse Nardin should release a watch as “chronometer” only when it has been certified by an independent laboratory to fulfil the specifications of the international ISO 3159 standard for chronometers. Not necessarily this lab has to be the COSC, even when there is barely an alternative for Swiss companies.
Regarding the “Black Sea’s” accuracy performance, my tests showed it to be within the COSC limits - barely. Two positions manifested an accuracy variation of five seconds between the two test days, which is quite a lot. The difference between horizontal and vertical is average, with 5 seconds, and the largest difference between the mean daily rate and the actual daily rates in the various positions is more than 7 seconds. This proves that the excellent mean daily rate in the various positions at 0.95 seconds per day does not tell the entire story, since the variance of the measure results is considerable. Certainly there is some room for improvement, but I have to state that my tests were conducted after I subjected the watch to the environment tests mentioned in a previous chapter. So there is a - slight, though - chance that one of the bumps compromised the movement.
When worn on the wrist all day long, the “Black Sea” gains an average 6 seconds per day, here the variance is small, with not more than two seconds’ deviation from this mean value.
VII. Ergonomics
A. Legibility
Unlike the all-black “stealth” watches that became popular in the last years, and where the hands, too, are completely black, the bright red luminous markers and zones on the hands offer a great contrast with the otherwise black watch to permit a good reading of the time display. In this respect, though, the hour and minute hands are compromised by the black metal structure of the hands, which makes the red luminous parts stand out seemingly disembodied, so a quick glance on the dial often is not enough to sort out all the red elements of similar size and shape. Yet this deliberate design “flaw” is a small trade-off, compared to its stunning effect.
In darkness, the red tinted SuperLuminova is bright enough for the eye to permit a reading even after several hours. However, in comparison with the highly capable and traditional C3 SuperLuminova, the luminosity of any colour tinted SL is completely outclassed (see my comparison test report on various SL types, including the “Black Sea”: home.watchprosite.com ). The decreased luminosity is a price willingly paid for the red colour’s attractiveness.
Reading the date is not very easy. Due to the mechanical module on the base movement, the date is placed in a funnel. A loupe, grinded into the rear side of the sapphire crystal, shall compensate this by optically enlarging the figures. However, it also massively distorts them, and even blocks the view as soon as one does not look at the date from directly above.
A direct comparison with the first version of the Marine Diver (right) shows the differences of the date display: The loupe in the sapphire crystal of the "Black Sea" makes the figres appear larger, but adds distortions and also darkens the display.
Tilting the watches only a little bit demonstrates the difference even better: While the "Black Sea's" loupe completely blocks the view on the date, the calendar on the original Marine Diver remains perfectly legible. In fact, the loupe over the date raised the production cost, but failed to have a positive effect.
B. Wearing comfort
At first, I was a bit sceptical about the “Black Sea’s” large size. 45.6mm diameter and more than 14mm height are some lump of metal, particularly since the case is made from steel, not titanium. I was positively surprised, though. Normally, I am wearing my watches rather loosely, so the strap allows a pair of fingers to be inserted between it and the wrist. Heavy watches then are often dangling around, and when this is combined with large diameters, the crown collides with the back of the palm. Not in this case, since the rubberized caseback prevents the watch from skidding on the skin. Even when sweating on very hot and humid summer days, this is not uncomfortable, in the contrary: I consider the big “Black Sea” to be a perfect summer watch.
A small disadvantage of the sticky rubber surface should not be left aside: textiles do not glide over the case, so whenever you try to get your shirt’s sleeve over the high case, you better do some planning before, otherwise this procedure might result in a series of funny-looking stretching moves. Also, the quick cleaning wipe over the watch with a cloth will leave tiny fibres sticking to the case. These are normally too small to see them with the naked eye. If you want a really clean watch (for photography purposes, for example), better rinse it with water, brush it and let it dry by the air.
What I really love about this watch is that its rubber coat not only protects the watch from damage, but also the furniture it comes into close contact with. Large watches get often banged against door sills or furniture pieces, and even if the timepieces get out of the collision without any traces, this is not the case with the wooden furniture. More than once I was annoyed about dings or scratches in my nice cherry-wood sideboard, but the “Black Sea” really takes care for the fine pieces, and the dull “whomp!” of the collision ends luckily for both parts.
VIII. Conclusion
I tried to write this review as neutral and sober in style as possible. However, the “Black Sea” unfolds its impact beyond the dry facts, and it is very difficult, if not impossible to put this effect into words. Collecting watches always is much more an emotional issue than pure logic, and this watch is pure emotion. Its black and red colour scheme makes it conspicuous, but not pretentious, it appears toolwatch-like, but also fashionable. Added to this is the haptic experience of the rubber, which lacks the cold smoothness of the steel under the rubber, but is warm and soft. Yet there is still the weight of the steel watch, and finally, the watch expresses utmost care in detail and value even in the smallest parts, like the ceramic links with the black polished screws in the rubber strap, or the polished black hands, that only stand out when light hits them at the right angle, while otherwise, they completely vanish and let the red luminous parts float above the black dial.
I admit to massively enjoy every moment wearing this watch, in my opinion it is the most attractive sports watch I ever wore on my wrist. That I am not alone with my opinion is shown by the many most favourable comments I received, and the enthusiastic statements expressed by other owners. Definitely, Ulysse Nardin has hit the nerve of the time with its “Black Sea” series.
To return to Part 1, please click here: ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com
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Copyright September 2012 - Marcus Hanke & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved
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This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2012-09-05 05:10:38 This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-09-13 12:11:01
Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" In-Depth Review, Part 2
Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver "Black Sea" Test report by Marcus Hanke Part 2 IV. Strap and clasp: From the beginning, the Marine Diver series offered a very unique rubber strap, combined with metal links. While these and the twin folding clasp normally are m...
That is a superb article, Marcus.
A complete review of this special Marine Diver. What I wondered was about the resistance of the rubber coated case. You answered to that with brio. The second thing is about the appellation " Chronometer ". Like you, even if I don't have any serious reaso...
I, too, felt a bit sated with the mass of black watches ...
... especially when they became all-black, aka "stealth". However, this UN was the first black watch after years that really caught my eye, and I have to admit that I did by no means grew weary of lokking at it. Regards, Marcus
Great review, Marcus.
Thank you for the review. I have been looking at UN Marine Diver for a while and wondering how it actually is. Very informative and I feel as if the watch were in front of my eyes. Again, thank you for the great review. Ken
Glad you liked it ...
I think this generation of UN Marine Divers will be the swansong of the ETA Divers at UN. From a horological point of view, the upcoming generation with the inhouse cal. 118 will be more interesting, but also more expensive. And for a sports watch, that o...
Great insight and photos Marcus.
Another wonderful report! I have loosely flirted in my mind with the newer model with yellow accents. I hesitate over thinking the novelty of the bright color will wear off with me over time. But these are terrific watches by UN.
I thought about the yellow markings diver as well ...
... at first sight, the contrast is great, but I, too, am not entirely sure if the effect would not wear off with me. The red markings, on the contrary, appear a bit less "shouting", and I am sure I would glady wear the watch in several years in the futur...
A satisfying conclusion to your review!
There's no doubt that this is a visually engaging watch, and it looks great on your wrist. I would be wary of the large size on my arm, but from your comments the larger case seems to be negated by the titanium and good engineering. Hopefully, UN will tak...
Dear Daos, many thanks ....
In your earlier comment, you pointed out to prefer the older version with the "gulf ball" dial over this one. If I had to decide myself between the original Marine Diver, and the stunning "Black Sea", it would be really difficult: In today's standards, th...
Thank you for this very comprehensive review ...
That should be a model of any future reviews. Cheers, Nilo
W-w-what? Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver is not a Chronometer ?!?
Marcus, Thanks for the review. The 1st gold watch that I ever bought was a Ulysse Nardin 'London 1862' commemoration edition (25 pieces). It was to celebrate their many chronometer medals including the eponymous London Great Exhibition 1862 and the then M...
For a distinguished English gentleman like you ....
... "shocking" might be a too strong expression. I would rather suggest "puzzled" or "bestranged" instead. Well, it is an open secret that a part of the industry is in conflict with the COSC since years. The reasons for tjhis are unclear to me; is it the ...
Welsh or British but NOT English !
Marcus, Slightly OT but I am not 'English'. Welsh or British are acceptable descriptors but not 'English'. As an Austrian, I'm sure you understand the regional distinctions are important. :-) You are correct. C.O.S.C. still only tests the movements but no...
Black is back! Black is the new Black.
Thank for the report Marcus! Was concerned about how the rubber coating was achieved on the more complex and detailed parts of the case such as the rubber bezel with wave pattern. Your description there was especially pertinent because most other brands h...
I agree, there is still potential in the "black" theme ....
... the the rubber variation is one of the most interesting versions! Regards, Marcus
