Jay (Eire)
12375
Depending on how liberal you are with your definition of “dress watch” I would add another vote for Habring.
You have a few choices at 38.5m case and less than 10mm thickness. For example I own a dead seconds (Erwin) which is 9mm thick and 38.5mm.
Others have mentioned Laine, but only the V38 has the proportions to pass as a dress watch. However, you don’t get your #2 ask with that. But perhaps the dial, and finishing, could be a sufficient compromise.