Horological Meandering

Just grab a cup of coffe before you open this post

 

I just got home this little package.

I wonder what is inside?

There is a lot of things here.

It's just like to be pregnant, nine months waiting when you order a watch from Dornblüth & Sohn. ))

So, maybe we should look at the nice box?

A sneak preview.

More things from the box.

 

You can use the watch in the box as a table clock.

The nice and clean Cal 99.1.

And it's from Germany if you have miss it, handmade too.

A few closeup's.

The blue hands is a nice looking thing.

Sparkling silver dial and the metal rings over the hands indicate the Quattro Arret option.

That means the secondhand is not hacking but when the crown is pulled out so will it stop

at next 15 second marker for calibration, this one have that option.

The case is 42 mm diameter made in stainless steel, 11,5 mm thick and the crystal is made of 1,6 mm antireflective coated

slightly doomed sapphire. The backcase is made of stainless steel and sapphire too.

I love the bend hand.

A nice huge crown will wind it.

Polished and brushed parts in a nice way.

And the manual Cal 99.1 movement is 37 mm diameter, 4,4 mm thick, 20 jewels, 18000 bph and a 50 hours power reserve.

The three quarter plate is red gold plated with yellow gold engraving, Geneva stripe finish, retracing ratchet and double

sunburst finish on the crown wheels. Blue heated screws, Glucydur screw balance with Nivarox-1 spring and a swan-neck

fine adjustment on the hand engraved balance cock.

I go for the steel bracelet.

A great option is the "double screws" that means there are no threads at the links,

so if one get broken you only need to replace a screw.

I order a black strap with white stitchings too.

And finally some pics of the lovely watch.

 

 

 

The Russian Project

 

This start one year ago with a mail from a russian guy named Mr Ruben, he told me about a project they was into. 

 

Today I got this one in the mail.

 

 

A bunch of guys that hang out on a russian watch forum have a idea to made a special watch in only 15 pieces.

 

 

So they ask Dirk Dornblüth about a project they have talking about. 

 

 

This project will be a 99.0 with a bronze case, stainless steal backcase with a sapphire crystal and a rosegold plated movement with granied finish and a montego blue dial. 

The reason Mr Ruben contact me was there was one watch left of the 15 watches that will be made and I will get the chance to be a part of this project.

 

 

My first thought was, after all, bronze, it has never interested me when we're talking watches. The next thought was, how do I get out of this? A russian guy will n ever

take a no for a answer.))  Jokes aside, why does not it could be exciting and such a small series makes the watch will be unique as well .

 

 

It's not the normal Dornblüth finish at the movement, this one have a more vintage look.

 

 

Blued screws and screwed gold chatons.

 

 

There is a bronze clasp too at the strap.

 

 

Now lets see how they where made.

 

The cases ready to get a movement, marked with XX/15 between the lugs.

 

 

The traditional 42mm Dornblüth case for the first time made in bronze.

 

 

Here is some pics from the birth of these watches and how it looked during the process.

 

The three quarter plate.

 

 

 

14 of the balance cock's.

 

 

A little closer look to the nice engraving.

 

 

 

Complete with the balance wheel and the swan neck.

 

 

All the parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some guys wants a personal engraving.

 

 

Now we are close to put the things together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we getting closer to a working movement.

 

 

 

 

Now it's ready for the case.

 

 

 

It's time to get things putted together.

 

 

The movement in the case looks perfect, the bronze match the rosegold in a nice way.

 

 

The montego blue dial with raised rosegold plated numbers.

 

 

 

Rosegold plated hands too and the text and rails in white.

 

 

The movement 412 is the one that I got, my watch is number 12/15.

 

 

I want my dial in blue and gold with no white so I ask if that can be a option. The answer I got was: Yes it can. So me and one more guy took this option.

 

 

So there is 2 of those dials and 13 of the option that was planned from the start.

 

 

 

And here the watches are finished and waits for the shipping company to come and pick up them for onward delivery.

 

 

Photo credit of the assembly pics goes to the Dornblüth Crew. We are very grateful to have been informed of the progress made during the manufacturing process.

 

Here is a few quick and dirtys.

 

I order the watch with a black croc strap with golden stiches and I was not really happy to get it yellow like this.

So I send it to my friend MickeJ that pull the strap apart and change the thread to something more close to what I want.

It come out perfect.

Then I take it one step further and get a Hirsch Nubuck

So I send it to my friend Micke J and ask if he can optimize it.

So he give it a try.

A new color of the thread.

And a new bronze clasp.

This guy made awesome work and I really love how this one come out.

So now it's back with the watch.

Perfect match of the bronze too.

And the final result.

And a wrist shot.

A big thanks toThe Dornblüth Team and to Mr Ruben for letting me be part of this project and that it happened.

I found this little nice box in my mail today.

Hmm, I just wonder whats inside?

After waiting for 10 months so did the Dornblüth team deliver.

When I visit Dornblüth in 2009 so did this one smile at me.

So I decide if I will own a Regulator so will it be one of those.

It's possible to get some personal touch if you ask Dirk nice, I go for a black dial with the Regulator letters in red.

Then I want a inverted Panda dial so that was what it will be, white subdials with black hands at the hours and power reserve.

Then I order a black strap with red stitches and the word Regulator engraved at the deployment clasp.

The regulator have a diameter of 37mm, height 5,4mm, 20 jewels, central display of minutes and seconds, central seconds driven by eccentric second wheel, hacking second, power reserve of 50 hours,

18000 beats per hour, red gold plated three quarter plate with geneva stripes. Glucydur screw balance with Nivarox-1-spring, swan-neck fine adjustment on the hand-engraved balance cock. 75% of the

movement parts is't modified to only fits in the regulator movement or is made in-house.

The second hand pinion below a separate bridge that normally have a blasted finish, I've order my one with Geneva stripes.

The winding crown is engraved with Dornblüth & Sohn.

Here is the result.

The movement is inspired of an old precision pendulum clock with a regular minuyr hand a small sub hour hand a small sub power reserve hand and the center second hand is unique for the

Dornblüth regulator movement.The case is 42 mm in diameter, height 12.5 mm, 1.6 mm sapphire glass on top, slightly domed and antireflected inside, screwed sapphire glass base and a

oversized crown with embossed manufactory name.

 

 

The Dornblüth & Sohn - Timetotalk Project

 

This project have been a kind of dream for many years, everything started back in 1999.

My friend Tony start a watch forum in Sweden in swedish in 1999 and for the last years we have been talking

about a special made forum watch. One of the members Anders (Rivalen) come up with the idea to made a

unique watch from Dornblüth & Sohn. He was very interesting of a Dornbluth & Sohn watch because he like the

style and have seen them on the Internet. The only problem was he have not seen them in flesh and was wondering

about the size, finish and quality. So what to do? I send him my 99.1 on strap for a test and see how he like it.

Now he was convinced and excited so it was time to made a post at the forum about our ideas to see how many that

will be a part of this project that we believed maybe can be difficult when it's a watch in this price range. We contact

The Dornblüth Team and told them about our ideas and the most important thing was if it was possible to get

a brown dial (that they refuse to made before) and with separate numbers printed on each dials. For some reason

they say yes even if we only could promise we talk about under 10 watches.

 

So now we start discuss this a little more serious and after some time it looks like we where all over the place

with a lot of different ideas, so it looks like this will not happen. A few months later I put some gasoline on the

fire again and we try to work out something that we all can accept. So I go to my local car painter and get some

color samples with the RAL color scheme that is the German standard of colors. So now we should try to find a

color that everyone like which turned out to be not easy.

So after we have post this colors around we choose some different colors and I have to do some PhotoShop work

so we can see how it will looks. At the same time we decide 2 models of watches can be ordered 99.2 or 99.4.

 

So here is what we start with to choose from.

And finally we go for this one.

As an option Luminova can be added on the white hands and outside the 5 minute markers.

At this time one guy from Russia and one guy from USA jump into the project too when they

heard about it. So now we are 7 guys with the 5 Swede's that is ready to order a watch.

 

So the final design will looks like this and we decide all watches should have the Minute Arret complication too

and we add it to the dial also. Minute Arret means the movement will hack/stop at 60 seconds for synchronization.

Then we will have the text TIMETOTALK X/7 with unique numbering on each dial.

 

So in the middle of July in 2016 we all accept and made the deposition so the project can begin with delivery in June 2017.

 

Here is the first pics from Dornblüth that shows they have start the work with our watches.

At the arrow you can see the minute arret parts and the gear that stops the movement at 12 o'clock position.

We get closer to deliver and now it's March 2017 and we meet Dirk in Baselworld where we will see the first dial

samples of the dial. This is not dials that will be used, only test samples so we can approve the color.

This is the first dial they made inhouse with ceramic powder paint so it was not easy for them to get it right.

We are really happy with this color and it looks like we was expecting.

He have made a inverted panda as a option if some one like that, but no one order one of those.

We all order the option with a Breguet Spring and of course we will have it engraved at the 3/4 plate outside the balance wheel.

 

So we got some suggestions where we could put the serial number.

 

 

So now we are ready to get the final parts at the movement when all the engravings is finished.

 

We could choose Geneva stripes or blasted finish at the movement.

The screwed chatons is now in place and give the plate a nice harmony.

So now it's only for The Dornblüth Team to put the things together.

Now we talking.

Then we go for the other side.

And now finally the dials is ready after some problems with the color, now I realize why they not have done browns

dials before. I don't really know why but it's not easy to make the brown color looks good.

So the project was a little delayed and now it looks good.

A great looking color IMHO.

One guy go for Luminova numbers, the rest go for polished silver appliques numbers.

Photo credit for all the pics from the manufacturer goes to The Dornblüth Team.

 

 

So now we will start the roadtrip to Kalbe and pick up the watches. 3 swede's go together from Stockholm to Berlin.

Then we hook up with the russian guy at the terminal in Berlin and one more swede and the US guy comes later.

Unfortunately one of the swede's have no chance to participate, it have been perfect if all have been here for the pick up.

Now we are very, very close.

We got a little ghost feeling when it getting dark so we leave Kalbe for a moment for a dinner in Gardelegen.

Next day is the the day, so we start the walk to the manufacturer.

Of course there is a Dornblüth & Sohn watch at the house.

Here we speak to Jana who is the one we have communicate with under the process. She have been very patient

under this project with all our questions and ideas. I guess we have get her some good training for the future.

So let's get inside. The guys is so excited that they not see what is going on behind their back.

Of course I do and it looks good so far.

Or what?

But as the patient guys we are we start with a tour in the house.

A new polishing machine for the dials.

It looks interesting.

A watchmaker under education, during the last year of the school in Glashütte with practice in Kalbe.

How to blued a hand.

Then we visit a small museum in Kalbe.

I didn't know I have relatives in Kalbe, but it looks like that.

A great view from the tower in Kalbe where you can see the whole town.

Back to the manufacturer for refreshments before the unboxing.

Now we will get the moment we have been waiting for in 14 months.

Dirk at the back looking for the reaction when the first watch will be shown in the flesh for us.

Happy guys.

Another unboxing.

And next one.

The funny thing is all the "old" guys (include me) need glasses when it's inspection time.

Talking about details.

Here is a few quick ones from the Dornblüth's Showroom of the different watches.

The only one with Luminova numbers & hands.

Blasted.

Kalbe ribbings.

After this there was time for some good discussions, great food and a few beer's in Dirk's Party House for us.

At the table there was a very unique flower that only grows in Kalbe, if I remember correct was the name Flower Power Reserve.

I will speak for us all when I say we all are very pleased and we will send the Dornblüth and Sohn a huge THANK YOU

for all. This have been a blast for us all and we are so happy that this has been done. It have been up's and down's but

at the end it have been better that we have expect. The pick up with everything around will icing the cake with your

hospitality and generosity, so once again THANK YOU ALL.

 

So here is a few quick ones of my watch and more will come.

 

The raised metal numbers really pop up fron the dial.

It's not easy to bring out the brown color correct.

Unique engraving on the clasp.

I go for the Kalbe ribbings.

The Breguet Spring engraving.

I go for polished hands with a discreet Luminova application and a dot at the 5 minute markers.