Independents

I've been bouncing around researching Rexhepi/Akrivia, Kari Voutilainen, Gronefeld, Roger Smith, Lang & Heyne, Vianney, Gruebel and others. Not including FP Journe because they're too big and certainly not including A. Lange & Sohne because they a... 

Might be of interest to you. ...  

Unfortunately this piece is too large at 41mm and doesn't have applied indexes/numbers/numerals. However it's a beautiful chronometer! Many thanks!

39mm for his new watches and 8.8mm thick. Those indices look applied to me...

make watches in 37mm. Beautiful watches but probably below the price point you want.

A clean looking piece. Many thanks! Love discovering new possibilities.

May become of interest as he evolves as a watchmaker. I haven’t seen applied indices on his dials but he is willing to customize his work significantly and so might be open to it. His guilloche is exquisite. He also plans to bring his movements and cases ... 

Checked out his website - interesting stuff. Thanks!

I have a strong preference for smaller cases also, below 40mm preferred. I’ve had the watch on my wrist and for me is too big, at 40mm, and so I think it will be for you too. BUT, the dials are a sublime. No question about that. If he comes with something... 

Would love to see this watch at 38mm. Would also like to see the case a little more refined. Excited for the future of this watchmaker.

The Gronefeld brothers produce a more affordable array of high-end pieces. For example, a red/rose gold Principia for $37k seems like a steal.

I have 6.5~ inch wrists and can't wear anything big than 40mm. Journe CB: If you can get it at retail and are comfortable with the all-round look as opposed to being a dress only watch, I would seriously consider it. That's the only Journe I have as the o... 

I wish he still had the 38mm option like 10 years ago - when you could choose a Chronometre Souveraine in either a 38mm or 40mm. When I visited his Geneva boutique I tried both sizes and felt a 38mm was better for a dress watch for my wrist.

While not applied, the dial with the embossed numerals might be interesting to you.

I'll look into Moser for sure. As well as Laurent Ferrier. Yes - the Gronefeld Principia is a great line and love the capability to pick colors/cases/straps. The Kari V. starter watch is $75k but achingly beautiful.

I would suggest a Dornblüth & Sohn Quintus Klassik. It features everything you need: 38.5mm case diameter, 11.5mm thick applied numerals on request, the possibility to customize your watch as long as you respect the brand DNA, a high level of handwork...  

I have the standard edition of this watch.

I'll dive into Dornbluth right away. Thank you! The Dornbluth site showed a range of lower priced models (under $9k) as well that look similar to the Klassik. Suppose I like the idea of purchasing as much watch as I can afford - like buying the least expe... 

Looks like the Patek Philippe 5170R with black dial (Arabic numerals)

Available in different metals. 40mm X 10.5mm. Applied breguet numerals and guilloche dials. It might be interesting.

Wow - does Kari know how similar the UJ 1140 is to his Vingt-8? Many thanks!

And he is making some dials for them indeed.

That makes sense now, thanks! After drooling over Kari's dial for the past few hours then all of a sudden seeing Urban dials I got confused!

NT

for the person who wants a larger watch.

I don't know the thicknesses of their watches, but other characteristics might match your interest and I believe they can customize a lot. Photos from their website of AdC #7: ...  

Just went to their website.

The Gronefeld would be a great choice. I'd also give Laurent Ferrier consideration if you're okay with the size.

Yes the gold ones are 39mm and very classoc with a little modern twist, and the microrotor also beauty

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You have a lot more choices. Nicolas basically said what I wanted to say. But I would also throw in De Bethune’s DB25 (40mm). There’s some great FPJ stuff out there as well.

Yes, but they are hard to find. I'd love a simple Platinum Chronometre Souveraine with black strap in a 38mm but I only see 40s now.

And very fairly priced

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Does anyone have an actual photo of the movement yet? Everything I’ve found has been computer renderings

So much mesmerizing detail on both sides is a big plus. Also you can get a KV dial on the Remontoire. Easy to wear and the best straps in the business. Also a big fan of KV but it is priced higher than your range.

I like the design of that dial and the quality of finishing! ...  

Can’t go wrong with either one!

As I think their watches tick all if not most of your boxes. The 1941 case is wonderfully made and wears very well on the wrist yet still exudes wrist presence. Price is also within your budget for the Principia and slightly above if you go for a Remontoi...