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Independents

New escapement? There's a market for those too...

 

Berhard Lederer's double detent escapement comes to mind, if you're looking for something that is attractive and technical. Though Bernhard may only be young at heart. The asking price is 140k. Developing such a watch might be too large a time investment for a young watchmaker coming from their student days, unless their parents are very well-off. You could argue that some seasoning at another Independent workshop is helpful too, but somebody who has a vision may just want to get on with it. If the watch is delivered to spec, close to on-time, then we can say the decision was the right one.
It's easy to get cynical with the glut of unknown watchmakers entering the scene, but it's not so different from unknown artists emerging on the scene. There's arguments to be made for and against these watches, but what's nice is that no consensus may be reached. If you order one of these watches, you're doing it mostly free of expert influence.

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Bernhard Lederer
16 Comments view entire thread 

Gregory Proz (remember this name and keep him under your radar)

 
By: Mohannad (aka Riddler) : October 9th, 2025-07:48
This is his first creation GENESE of only 20 pieces Here are the key specifications of Genèse: • Case: Stainless steel, 39 mm × 9.15 mm (without glasses) • Dial: Smoked sapphire • Movement: Entirely developed in-house, hand-finished • Dial side fully reve...  

I'm wondering whether he's going to join the 70/80k (VAT excluded) independent club.

 
By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : October 9th, 2025-08:29
This is the new trend, young watchmakers design a watch/movement, outsourced parts, in house finishing ( whose level should be verified and defined for them all) and the magic is done. This is, of course, exclusivity, but I'm waiting for the day when any ... 

I want to be a 2025 watchmaker when i grow up.

 
By: enjoythemusic : October 9th, 2025-09:49
The plethora of adoring fans, the lovely girls throwing themselves at me, Swiss Francs raining down at my feet as i polish parts.... Someone should create a song about it

Hmm, i'm thinking our Watch Maker / Parts Polishing song should be deep soul or vintage chain gang.

 
By: enjoythemusic : October 9th, 2025-10:52
Debated it being duet or blues, imho a timepiece song should have deep soul, playing deep in the pocket. We could go retro, reword an old US chain-gang song into a parts polishing tune. Imagine this.... you see a Big Box Store conglomerate brand's large r... 

New escapement? There's a market for those too...

 
By: jmpTT : October 12th, 2025-20:35
Berhard Lederer's double detent escapement comes to mind, if you're looking for something that is attractive and technical. Though Bernhard may only be young at heart. The asking price is 140k. Developing such a watch might be too large a time investment ... 

Really fantastic looking watch!

 
By: Champthekid : October 9th, 2025-10:08
The stepped case front and back is very cool. Congratulations on nabbing one.

Congratulations

 
By: jmpTT : October 12th, 2025-20:08
Lots of nice details on this watch, I think you'll be pleased with your watch when it arrives. The snap caseback is a feature we don't see as often today, but it's been elevated by applying the fluted finish to the oversized tab.