reintitan
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This is the Year of the IWC Pilot Watch Collaboration
First in January at the SIHH we had the IWC x Rake x Revolution collaboration: "The IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36mm Special Edition for the Rake and Revolution" an LE of 150 pieces. (Click Here)
And released earlier this week is the IWC x Hodinkee collaboration: "The IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII for Hodinkee" an LE of 500 pieces.
Both limited editions are sold out.
The case, crown, caseback, and strap buckle are made of IWC's new proprietary material called "Ceratanium" which is a titanium alloy which consists of zirconium oxide. When heated to a certain temperature the zirconium oxide turns black in color and hardens into ceramic that permeates throughout the titanium. So you supposedly get the lightness of titanium and the scratch and wear resistance of ceramic without the fragility. This is not a coating like PVD as the entire material is made of this alloy.
IMHO, this is a great pilot watch design taking the best design codes of the original IWC Mark 11 (35.5 mm Ø) and putting it into a modern case and size (39 mm Ø). The movement for both of these LEs is the same Selitta no-date caliber (IWC calls it cal.35100) which is probably where most criticism will come from, however, IWC has a history of using ebauche calibers in their pilot watches (eg. base ETA 2892-2 used in the Mark XV or the JLC caliber used in the Mark XII) and no one really complained then.
Hodinkee also stated that they wanted to recreate the look and feel of IWC's ref. 3705 ceramic pilot chronograph from the 1990s (see their comparison photo below).
I particulary like the minimal dial text. No "Automatic" text on the dial is something you don't usually see in Richemont brands.
I find it ironic that it takes watch and fashion blogs to design watches for the manufactures that watch aficionados really want. Maybe the brands' inhouse designers need to take notes.
photo credit: Hodinkee
photo credit: Hodinkee
photo credit: Hodinkee
photo credit: Hodinkee
This is the Year of the IWC Pilot Watch Collaboration
First in January at the SIHH we had the IWC x Rake x Revolution collaboration: "The IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36mm Special Edition for the Rake and Revolution" an LE of 150 pieces. ( Click Here ) And released earlier this week is the IWC x Hodinkee coll...
My IWC mk xv is quite accurate at 38mm it fits just right on my wrist.
And the lumes just right. At 36mm I think it's great. Thanks for sharing. Cool watch and post Reintitan. 😎 Cheers 🍻 ...
Agree regarding the case
The technology sounds interesting and the light weight is nice. But it wouldn't be too heavy in steel. I also think $6,400 is a bit steep, especially with the Selitta movement. Those criticisms aside, it is a handsome watch!
I've been hoping for this...
throwback design for the Mark series. I wish IWC would release a steel version with these exact specs but mass produce them and drop the price to where it should be - around $3.5K-ish? 38mm would be even cooler and they can even throw the Mark XIX text on...
It's a possibility that they do just that
Since George Kern is gone, no-date watches are again possible at IWC!
It's not PVD or any coating, the zirconium oxide in the alloy transforms into ceramic when heated to a certain temperature and it turns black in color.
Here's their description: p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px 'Helvetica Neue'} "Ceratanium® starts as a unique titanium alloy that contains zirconium oxide, which is then cut and milled into finished watch components – after they’re shape...
I agree that it's nice to see both of these references.
I'm not the premium for the Hodinkee watch is really that unreasonable given the different case material (and perhaps the pricing power Hodinkee may bring).
Price aside....movement aside....
It is a bloody COOL watch — period. I can’t remember when was the last time I was that excited over IWC’s Pilot watches. The revolution version is quite interesting, but I reckon this one is 10/10 for aesthetics. ...
Probably where most criticism will come from?
That's been the bulk of the talk on the Hodinkee Instagram feed since the watch was announced. While it's true that IWC has a history of using ebauches, I think most people took exception to the price given that the watch uses an essentially off the shelf...
Not getting the inhouse movement for both collaboration watches may have been the "price"
or compromise they had to make to get the project green-lighted by Richemont me thinks. IWC wanted their own non-cobranded watches first with them. But who knows. I've seen the replies on Hodinkee's IG about the movement. Makes me laugh a little. When did...
Some of the blame lies with the manufacturers
Brands like Panerai and IWC have been moving all of their watches to in-house movements so they're setting certain expectations. And when the in-house models are less expensive than the models with third party movements then buyers question the value of t...
Maybe Hodinkee has been paying attention to the auctions...
I don't know what their cost was to source the case material as well as manufacture them in a limited quantity but in regards to the movement, yes, the $6K+ price tag is quite high. However, they may have noticed how some of their LE pieces have been perf...
I think the comparison is a bit unfair..the new material makes a big difference. The new ceramic Mark is priced the same
and is "just" ceramic. The watch is very light ..of course the movement it is what it is but not a big concern to me ..of course I am biased I just found incredible how people disregarded the case material in their IG fights
I like this iteration a lot, the black ceramic case is cool. But its another rehash of the original after Mark 12, Portofino 351 and last years Tribute 3270-07 . And that price ????
full retail for a website portal that already cashes on adverts… i dont get it. Not mine but from the net ...