Laurent Ferrier offers a special limited edition of the Galet Traveller timepiece designed exclusively for the US market.
LAURENT FERRIER GALET TRAVELLER USA ENAMEL DIAL
Pedants might note that an “L” should be dropped from the name of this watch, first introduced last year, for a version targeted specifically at the American market, where subtle differences in the use of English mean that many words, “traveller” included, drop their double “l”. But Laurent Ferrier has preferred instead to focus on the market in a more literal sense, with a new enamel dial that gives the entire North American continent pride of place.
For aesthetic reasons, the dial has been aligned with the north pole slightly off centre and the usual reference point of the Greenwich Meridian rotated roughly 90 degrees anti-clockwise to allow a full view of the United States as far down as northern Latin America, with hints of Europe and Asia visible around the right-hand edge of the dial. It is an unusual perspective that has rarely, if ever, been seen on a watch dial.
The outline of the continents is produced in cloisonné champlevé enamel, meaning that the base of the dial is hollowed out and individual compartments are added for the different colours of enamel, which range from a deep blue for the oceans to a green for the plains, verging towards yellow and orange for areas of higher altitude, as is familiar from most maps. The big challenge with this dial is cutting out the date window and applying the hour markers on the fragile grand feu enamel base.
The back of the watch is equally as delightful to look at, with a transparent sapphire crystal revealing the complexity of the Calibre LF230.01 self-winding movement, which has been chronometer certified by the Besançon Observatory in France. A solid-gold micro-rotor with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system provides the timekeeping functions and offers an 80-hour power reserve, while the ultimate in precision is provided by the natural escapement with double direct impulse directly on the balance from a self-lubricating silicon pallet lever.
Added to this is the supremely easy to use dual time function, which can be adjusted forwards or backwards with the date automatically adjusting if the international date line is crossed during the process. Front, back and inside, therefore, there is sufficient technical content to justify the 84,000 dollar price tag, especially since only 10 models of this particular watch will be sold only in the United States.
Paul O’Neil, Worldtempus
GALET TRAVELLER USA ENAMEL DIAL
LIMITED SERIES OF 10 PIECES
TECHNICAL DETAILS
Movement :
Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of the micro-rotor and equipped with a type “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance
Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties, escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy,produced according to LIGA technology
Indications: hours, minutes, date at 3 o’clock home time at 9 o’clock
Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic date correction
Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
Thickness: 5,80 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 80 hours
288 parts
44 jewels
AESTHETIC CHARACTERISTICS
Case :
18K/750 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold
Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
Thickness of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
Water resistant to 30 metres
“Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold
Dial :
Champlevé enamel dial depicting the earth with North America in the centre
“Teardrop” hour-markers in 18K/750 210Pd white gold
Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands :
18K/750 210pd non rhodium plated white gold
Hours and minutes: “assegai-shaped”
Strap :
Hand-sewn, full-skin and square scale
Available in chestnut brown, blue or black alligator leather
Alcantara lining
Buckle :
16 mm ardillon buckle or double-blade folding clasp
18K/750 210 Pd white gold
US retail: $84,000 with ardillon buckle / $87,000 with folding buckle